Hello Big news this months is the LCBO’s flip flop on their plan to allocate more space in stores to high priced goods at the expense of low priced items. The LCBO's annual report stated that it planned to "trade consumers up beyond the $8 price point". We’re now told that more shelf space will also be given over to bargain imports. Serious bargains, too, as in $7 and $8 cut-rate quaffers from Portugal, Australia and South Africa. Sounds good to me. Will the LCBO have to install Canadian Tire height shelving to accommodate all this extra ‘space’? The about-face come in the wake of consumer complaints received by the LCBO in recent weeks, many prompted by expose articles by my colleagues in the Star and Globe. Read on for lots of more good news on wine, burgers and golf. Sláinte, Billy Munnelly www.billysbestbottles.com



DISCOUNTED Good news – one of the best hearty, rustic reds of last year is being delisted and sold off at a not to be missed price. Bad news – the South African section needs quality/value driven wineries like Spier. SPIER 06 Merlot, South Africa 622035 $6.95 "Thanks to better-trained winemakers and better technology, the $8 and $9 bottles no longer mean a gamble with mediocrity." Chris Churchill, president of Churchill Cellars Ltd

	VALENTINE SPARKLERS Sparkling wine is the most popular and obvious Valentine's choice because it's inherently seductive. Besides the fizz up your nose, the tingle on your tongue, it actually changes your chemistry. The bubbles raise your blood alchol level, making you feel lighthearted. As Shakespeare said, 'it provides the desire' Let's forget that he also said something about, 'taking away the performance'. There is a new $16 sparkling wine on the shelves that tastes a lot like Champagne. It’s rich, toasty and quite yummy. Producers in the Limoux region claim that they had perfected the sparkling wine act long before Dom Perignon and his mates started up. And I believe them. People who sell their wine at low prices not only speak the truth but deserve our support. Thanks for this one. CREMANT de LIMOUX BRUT, ‘Sieur d’Arques’, France 52985 $16.85 Another way to go is to splurge on a good bottle of sparkling Rosé, such as Henry of Pelham's Cuveé Catharine – way more fun than roses! HENRY OF PELHAM ROSÉ BRUT 'CUVEE CATHARINE', Niagara 4051 $29.95 P.S. More Valentine's picks here.

DROP IN QUALITY!? I was asked at a tasting if I’d noticed that the quality of Yellow Tail had dropped? I thought this was a bit like asking if I’d noticed that Wonderbread had dropped in quality. How can it? Go to a top end restaurant and order something at ‘market price’ without asking how much it costs." The Millionaire Mind book

	GETTING DOWN TO EARTH A big troupe of leading organic and biodynamic wine producers from around the world will be pouring their stuff at the Fermentation Cellar, Toronto Distillery district on Saturday, February 9 (4:30–8:00). Well worth getting off the couch for this one. Tickets $39.50-$59.90 by emailing return.to.terroir.toronto@gmail.com

THE ZIN THAT REFUSED TO FADE AWAY For a while there it looked like Californian Zinfandel was going to be the next big red. But it sort of faded away. RAVENSWOOD has kept the flame alive in these parts and I suggest you check out the recently arrived 05 vintage. It starts out slowly – silky, spicy/sweet with the charm of a Pinot. A lovely sipper. The second half of the bottle reminds me of Tawny Port. Quite exotic. What more could you ask for on a freezing February night. RAVENSWOOD 05 Zinfandel 'Vintners Blend’, California 359267 $16.80

	FINDING GOOD LOCAL EVERYDAY REDS at the LCBO Everyday red is not a strong point with local wineries. But there are a few cheapies worth exploring, providing you don’t have a problem with something lightish, tart and rustic. Shades of an Italian café-style drink – and not your currently popular jammy Shiraz. Good wine for washing down everyday foods. Try the following: COLIO 06 Cabernet/Merlot, Ontario, Ontario 432054 $10.90 JACKSON-TRIGGS 06 Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon, Niagara 560680 $12.15

	AND THE BEST REDS ARE FROM... In the $10 to $25 price range the Rhône Valley in the south of France produces the most friendly, nourishing, and charming red wines in the world. Read about my 4 Rhône picks here.

GREAT MALIVOIRE LUNCH One of my favourite luncheon tastings of the year is when Martin Malivoire brings a case of his new wines to Gamelle restaurant. Read the full article here. P.S. And take your sweetie to GAMELLE for Valentines. You’ll get excellent wine service from the young Basque, John. www.gamelle.com

	WHAT'S WITH THE VQA STICKER? VQA wines are 100% local. Confusion over the VQA status arose when Niagara had small crops in 05 and 06 and wineries were allowed to sell non-VQA wines that were almost 100% imported juice. Previously non-VQA wines had to be 30% local. The media got confused and made it sound like there was a relaxation in the VQA regulations. KACABA REVISITED When Vineland’s Kacaba winery first opened I thought that the wines were overly spicy/sweet, and overpriced. A recent tasting revealed that the winery is continuing as it started. However I did find one gem. The 2003 Cabernet Franc ($25.95) delivers the pure flavours and challenging vigour and vitality of this grape. Lots of old– fashioned red wine character – Ontario’s edition of Chianti. It’s starting to fade but shows the potential of this grape. Which must be the most-used line in Niagara’s wine history. DISCLOSING INGREDIENTS & FLAVOURINGS I think it’s only a matter of time till wine, and all drinks, will have to disclose ingredients. Read my thoughts on this issue here.

DIFFERENT ROUTES FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS In a book on golf course design an old Scot, Alister MacKenzie (he did Augusta) said that every hole should offer both a direct route and a charming one. “Most American players take the direct one but I usually select the other for the fun it offers – even when I’m not successful. Translated to wine terms, the direct route would a big Cab and the charm one would be more adventuresome/risky wines such as Pinot Noir. RUSKIN GOT IT RIGHT So many of today’s high priced wines fall into the category once described by John Ruskin, the English art critic, as “mankind reaching out for greatness beyond his grasp”. Ruskin was an advocate of imperfection as a measure of excellence. The poet Robert Browning held similar views such as great art was great not in spite of its imperfections but because of them. In rustic wines (old world) it’s often the odd parts that make the wine so appealing. If you're drinking only RICH REDS, please please do yourself a favour and entertain the RUSTIC life!

PLANTATREE WINES! The Ironstone Winery from California recently launched a line of plastic bottle wines at the LCBO under the brand name of Plantatree. This is another environmental pitch to wine drinkers – Tree Canada will receive $2.50 from your purchase and plant a tree. Is this environmentally friendly, commercially savvy, or both? You decide how to spend your $14.95. I found both reds to be very plain but the fruity/sweet Chardonnay would be popular for party gulping. DEVELOPING DIFFERENCES As you are probably aware there is not a whole lot of difference between wines from the newer wine countries. Especially the reds which seem to be crafted to a common palate, a prototype – yummy and rich. Traditional reds of Europe are more distinctive because they had the luxury of being able to take generations to find their own style. Whereas today’s Aussie or Chilean winemakers are under pressure to please a global market.



Billie Holiday’s man is never coming home. Ella Fitzgerald’s might.

	THE NEW HUGH The grand daddy of wine books authors, Hugh Johnson, has done another update of his World Atlas of Wine. An early edition has been by far the most handy wine book on my shelf. I’ve used over and over for a quick reference on what I’m drinking or before I go traveling. Hugh mixes learning with friendliness in the PBS Masterpiece Theatre style. The new edition will be $60 well spent. P.S. Another brilliant wine authority, Jancis Robinson co-authored the new addition. I've read many great books by her but beware of her Oxford Companion to Wine, which is the driest, dullest wine book ever created. Needless to say wine geeks love its million titbits of boring information.

“No flavour at all and yet it tastes bad” P.J.O’Rourke

THERE'S HOPE There was a time when every town in North America had a great main Street. Few remain. Port Hope, just east of Toronto, is an exception. Some find it a little too precious but let me tell you that the town has soul in the form of THE GREAT FARINI. This old saloon across from the LCBO serves up one of the best burgers anywhere. And lots of other really good everyday food. There’s German beer on tap, a few County wines and friendly young staff. And the Farini story itself is worth a trip. 22 Ontario Street, Port Hope www.thegreatfarini.com

SIZE MATTERS The bar at Selfridges department store in London has been forced to increase the amount of its wine pour. Apparently a wine tasting machine that was dispensing 25ml and 75ml ‘tasting pours’ was in violation of Trading Standards which specify that wine can only be sold in measurements of 125ml and multiples thereof. Every country has crazy alcohol regulations.

.	NOT SO COOKOO! It’s easy to be suspect of Aussie wines with all their animal and ethnic labeling. A pair not to miss however is the Cookoothama red and white that deliver lots of wine character for $14. P.S. These wines are produced by the Nugan family winery and Cook-a-tharma is an aboriginal word for ‘fertile land’. COOKOOTHAMA 06 Chardonnay, Australia 619403 $14.05 Lush, rich but not overdone. More grace than glitz. An invitation to relax. Read a book wine. COOKOOTHAMA 06 Shiraz, Australia 619460 $14.05 Concentrated, with lots of fruit and spice. Feels more playful and more together than most Aussie reds. Burgers or ribs. MORE WINTER DRINKS Coming to Vintages on February 16 – Several delicious winter warmers. Read my recommendations here.



COLOUR WITH KATO! Calling all artists, or wannabes! This summer my partner, Kato Wake, www.katowake.com is teaching a 5 day workshop on COLOUR, COMPOSITION & DESIGN at Dunedin Art Retreat near CREEMORE. A delightful, rustic setting by the Noisy River. This course (and all the others offered) will strike the right balance between education and holiday FUN. Delicious lunches are included. I'll help with wine! July 20-25. All skill levels welcome. Registration and more info here. Thanks for reading.