The Wine for Asparagus

Asparagus and Sauvignon Blanc have the same DNA – wild herbaceouness. A no brainer food and wine pairing. However if you decide to make asparagus risotto I’d like to suggest a different wine, Masianco. This mildly rich, semi-dried Verduzzo purrs along with the creaminess of the risotto, while the high energy Pinot Grigio refreshes the palate. Totally yummy. Especially when it’s Kato’s risotto.

Masianco is one of the best food whites in the store. You get refreshment, some heft and elegance. Cannot best that.

MASI 08/09 ‘Masianco’, Pinot Grigio/Verduzzo, Veneto, Italy 620773 $14.95

P.S. You should also check the somewhat similar other Italian white on P.101 in my book. Currently $2 off and selling for $14.95. ANSELMI 08 Soave ‘San Vincenzo’, Veneto, Italy #948158  $14.95

The LCBO is currently doing a French wine education theme that I highly recommend for novice drinkers. Some of the wine picks (paid promotion) are not the best, but what’s important is your opportunity to understand the origin of the major grape varieties. Australia did not invent Chardonnay or Shiraz!

If you’re interested, I’d like to offer a few of my French wine learning tips.

1. Memorize the following wine region name, Cotes-du-Rhone. It’s the Mecca of red wine. A place where grapes, soil, sun and man have combined to deliver a perfect product at an everyday price. Check out the two Louis Bernard wines.
LOUIS BERNARD 08 Cotes du Rhone, France 581645 $11.80
LOUIS BERNARD 08 Cotes du Rhone Villages, France 391458 $12.85
2. A light French red to explore for summer patio/picnic drinking is the bright, cheerful Yvon Mau Shiraz. Shades of a rustic Beaujolais. Refreshing and very gulpable. Lightly chill.
YVON MAU 08 Shiraz, VDP de l’Aude 621979 $9.79
3. Something new in French wine packaging is the fun, Cest la Vie label. The wine is light, rustic and simple but I like it. Because it offers a traditional French café wine experience. No pretence.
C’EST la VIE! 08 Pinot Noir/Syrah, VDP d’Oc, France 166934 $11.95

Our culture is still relatively new to wine, so we tend to go for the big show – especially in reds. We entertain light/refreshing whites as long as we know there’s a blockbuster red to follow. But what about the idea of a red that will refresh, and complement most everyday foods? What the Europeans call café wine. A red to drink with gusto and which has some of the lipsmacking character of white wines. A red to have the minute you get home.

Valpolicella is one of the world’s great everyday reds. Vibrant, juicy and delightful. I drink a ton of the stuff. Chilled ever so lightly. Tommasi makes a good one.
TOMMASI 08 Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 669150 $13.95

P.S. If you live near a Vintages store you MUST try this Valpolicella.  
Juicy, furity flavours combined with high energy. A wow for the senses. Very invigorating and an invitation to get pasta on the table – and pour more wine. MONTE DEL FRA 08 Valpolicella ‘Lena di Mezzo’, Vento, Italy 160226 $13.95

Grape variety is often prescribed as the way to select wines, but I disagree. Sure, it’s a good starting point, but winemaker’s style and climate are what usually determines the wine’s style or character. The overall feeling.

Case in point are the two Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc wines found at your local LCBO. The Ontario wine is crisp and refreshing, while the Okanagan Sauvignon is mellow and rich. Ontario cool climate versus west coast warm climate. Up tight versus laid back. Different styles – different uses. Have the Ontario for aperitif and the Okanagan with a spicy BBQ’d chicken. Have fun.

Two reasons to drink Canadian eh!

JACKSON-TRIGGS 08 Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Niagara 58438 13.75

JACKSON-TRIGGS 07 Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Okanagan 593111 13.75

Italian families seldom drinks rich red wines. They keep the big hitters for weddings and other celebrations. We, however, drink rich reds all the time. It’s our default wine. But what about a compromise wine – the muscle without the brawn?

Ripasso is a brilliant Italian invention. Enriched Valpolicella. A red wine that feels substantial but not heavy. Vitality and earthiness partnered with nourishment. The last glass won’t knock you out. You could even entertain a second bottle.

The house of Masi are masters of Ripasso and the current 06 vintage is the best ever. Deep earthy flavours are delivered with an assured, confident feeling. You get a feeling of history as opposed to the obvious fruitiness on many of today’s wines. An invitation to put the wine with simply grilled meats, and good friends. Italian wines always invite food and company.

MASI 06 VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO ‘Campofiorin’, Veneto, Italy 155051 $17.45

There was a time when almost all red wines were rustic. Bone dry with a tangy bite. A bit challenging but refreshing and appetizing. Today’s fashion is for smooth, rich reds – and while these are delicious drinks they are not great companions at the dinner table. They try to upstage the food. And they tire, rather than stimulate the appetite.

So take a trip on the challenging side. Make rustic your friend and new dinner companion. Have second bottles on hand as the refreshing nature of rustic reds tend to keep us longer at the table. Italy is motherland of rustic red but some of our local wineries are not afraid to produce wines with an edge. Have with burgers, pizza, lasagna, casseroles, BBQ’d red meats and anything oven-roasted.

Creekside’s Shiraz is gutsy, down to earth and loaded with vim and vitality. An Ontario Chianti! Get food on the table and you’ll be in for the fun of a fast bottle.

The blend of Cabernet Franc and Shiraz from Angels Gate tastes like something you’d have at a French bistro. Hearty, earthy and very real. I’d love to see more local wine produced in this style.

CREEKSIDE 07 Shiraz, VQA Niagara 66654 $15.75
ANGELS GATE 07 Cabernet/Shiraz, VQA Niagara 146365 $14.75

Drink your way through Billy’s Best wine book – a bottle or two at a time.  Follow the instructions and you’ll be a wine wizard by Easter. New lessons are posted every week, typically Wednesday. Looking forward to hearing about your ‘homework’!

Lesson #6 EXPERIENCE NICE

Nice is the most wrongly used wine description. When we enjoy a wine we tend to call it nice. What we should be saying is “this wine is hitting the spot, right now”. On a hot day a shrill Sauvignon can feel heavenly, but it’s a mistake to describe the wine as NICE. It’s not nice – it’s a good wine when we’re thirsty.

But there are wines that are NICE. Comfortable, gentle, polite, easy. Wines for relaxation, to sip ‘n chat – hanging out with friends. A lot of Pinot Grigio falls into this category. This week I’d like you to buy the two wines below, open and have both over several evenings. Experience NICE. And an amazing wine value from Gallo.

LINDEMANS 09 Pinot Grigio ‘Bin 85’, Australia 668947 $10.95
Pleasant fruitiness, zippy freshness and a lighthearted feeling. What could be nicer!. Very social, very party gulpable.

GALLO 08 Pinot Grigio ‘Family Vineyards’, California 82594 $7.95
Great blast of lemonade freshness and summer day on the beach feeling. Drier, and way better, than most Californians in the low price range. Bring on the summer party season. Great value.

WINE LESSON # 5  Côtes du Rhône

I want to repeat the first lesson because of the flood of Côtes du Rhône wines appearing at Vintages this Saturday. You must grab this opportunity to explore one of the great experience in red wine. And great values too. The wines won’t be around for long and when they’re they gone  – they’re gone.

Côtes du Rhône has a unique style that cannot be duplicated elsewhere. The sunny flavours  and feeling of the south of France pour out of each glass. Effortlessly. Lovingly. Côtes du Rhône is Cabernet’s alter ego. Wines crafted for charm over size. Spicy/sweetness over power.

So here’s what to do. This weekend, go to an LCBO that carries a decent Vintages selection. Buy one or two of my 5 recommended Côtes du Rhônes. Here they are. All my other Vintages picks will be posted here on FRIDAY, FEB 19th.

My 5 recommended Côtes du Rhônes released this Saturday, Feb. 20th.
DOMAINE de DIEUMERCY 07 Côtes du Rhône, France 155507 $12.95
LES VIGNERONS de ROAIX 07 Côtes du Rhône, France 156000 $13.95
TERRES d’AVIGNON 07 Côtes du Rhône ‘Les Cardinalices’, France 155473 $14.95
DOMAINE SAINT-PIERRE 06 Vacqueyras, Côtes du Rhône Villages, France 130013 $25.95
CAVE de RASTEAU 07 Gigondas ‘Ortas’, Côtes du Rhône Villages, France 155440 $23.95

And don’t overlook a previous recommendation posted on Jan 8 (Rasteau 08 ‘Ortas’ Côtes du Rhône Villages #998716 $15).

P.S. Next Wednesday I’m taking a break from school because I’m posting a lot of ‘Olympic Wine Picks’ in the coming week. Cheers.

Will that be rustic or rich? Playing around with a few Portuguese reds – fun on a winter night.

Sogrape is a big Portuguese winery that churns out some of the world’s great value reds. Really good wines at everyday prices. I’ve been recommending the following for ages but they have never tasted better. And I don’t know any other winery in the world that offers such a diverse trio. Vila Regia is gusty, rustic and invigorating – classic bistro red that invites you to get stuck into food. An LCBO best buy for over twenty years. Vila Regia Reserva is rich, mellow and yummy in the style of today’s popular reds. But it could also be mistaken for a high-priced Bordeaux. Sogrape’s Duque de Viseu is very old world – rich and rustic. The feeling of a slightly faded old hotel. Red velvet, old fashioned romantic. Set the scene with candles and a few cocktails. The old way.

The object of this lesson is for you to experience the differences between the rustic, bistro style and the rich style. The third wine is a combination of both styles. Each wine will tell you where it wants to be. Each has the potential for ‘best’.

Sogrape 07 Douro ‘Vila Regia’, Portugal 464388 $8.95 page 141 (has a new label)
Sogrape 06 Douro ‘Vila Regia’ Reserva, Portugal 613950 $12.50 (not in my book)
Sogrape 06 Dao ‘Duque de Viseu’, Portugal 546309 Vintages Essentials $13.95 page 181 (has new label)

Lesson #3  Does the situation call for the old wine camp or the new?

The old wine countries create very dry and challenging drinks, while new wine countries offer more friendly, less dry wines. This is a generalization of course but it’s useful to know that the two styles exist – and that choosing the appropriate one will go a long way in determining the success of your event. Or just your own drinking pleasure.

For this lesson you will need to buy and open both red wines below. Experience them side by side (yes, two glasses in front of you) so you can see the different experiences described below. Neither wine is better of course, but there will be a better ‘choice’ once you factor in a situation/mood/food. You could have the foods suggested with the two wines – on the same evening, or spread your lesson over two evenings.

OLD WORLD STYLE Red
CESARI 08 Merlot, Italy 572453 $7.25 page 149
(alternative: Alianca 06 Bairrada Reserve, Portugal 158741 $8.50)
very dry – an edge – earthy – challenging. Very refreshing and good at stimulating the palate – making you hungry, and keeping you hungry through the meal. Its strength is being good at helping you enjoy the meal. And not knocking you out with high alcohol. Could be likened to European movies that give you something to think about.
FOODS: Plain roasted or grilled red meats with fresh herbs. Tomato sauced pasta or pizza.
FYI: The traditional wines of France, Italy, Spain, etc are known as Old World.

NEW WORLD STYLE Red
CONO SUR 08 Shiraz, Chile 64295 $9.95 page 199
(alternative: Finca Flichman 08 Malbec ‘Misteria’, Argentina 28803 $7.80)
Smooth – fruity – spicy sweet – yummy. Instant pleasure and the ‘let’s party’ feeling. An invitation to relax – with food, or without. If there’s food, make sure it has kick-ass flavours. New World reds could be likened to Hollywood movies – lots of glitz and glam.
FOODS: Ribs, steaks or chops with spicy/sweet sauces. Burgers with all the fixins.
FYI: Australian, Chilean and Californian wines are categorized as New World.
P.S. Ontario is in this group technically, but most of our best wines are Old World and cool climate in style.

LESSON 2:  It’s the mood/situation that makes a wine ‘good’ – NOT personal taste.

You might find this a bit shocking but this is one of the most important things you can learn about wine. Personal taste tries to keep you in your comfort zone, depriving you of the potential magic of the moment. But you can overcome the limitations of personal taste simply by being more in the mood of the moment. When the wine is right for the moment you, and your friends, will enjoy it. Regardless of personal taste.

This week I’d like you to buy two styles of wine to illustrate this point. Two contrasting whites, each with the potential to hit the spot after work – depending on your mood. One is a ‘refresher’, the other a ‘relaxer’. Refrigerate and open both wines – pour a small glass of each before supper and see which works best for you.

Repeat the exercise on the next, and the next evening. Always noting how one wine works better than the other. But, and this is the lesson, your fondness is likely change from evening to evening, depending on your need for relaxation or refreshment. The moment/mood will determine the best wine, and over ride personal taste.

A REFRESHER
Mezzacorona 08 Pinot Grigio, Trentino, Italy 302380 $12.60  page 58
Alternative:  Winzer Krems 08 Gruner Veltliner, Austria 589002 $10.75  page 53

A RELAXER
Henry of Pelham 07 Non-Oaked Chardonnay, VQA Niagara 291211 $13.15  page 83
(Alternative: Ruffino 08 Orvieto, Umbria, Italy  31062 $11.50  page 78

Unbeknown to me, Wine Boot Camp is a registered trademark and so the former Billy’s Wine Boot Camp is now entitled Billy’s Online Wine School.

Lesson 2 is coming tomorrow. Stay tuned.

Cheers.

BILLY’S ONLINE WINE SCHOOL for 2010

Welcome to my new Wine School. Drinking your way through my 2010 Billy’s Best Book – a bottle (or two) at a time. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be a wine wizard by Easter.

How it works:
1. Every week Billy will declare a ‘mood appropriate’ situation and recommend one of two wine picks. You can buy both or one. Most weeks the wine(s) won’t cost more than $30 total.
2. Drink the wine(s) alone or with friends, and report back to us – tell us how it went.
3. We’re giving away monthly prizes for the best stories.
4. Wines and context will be posted every WEDNESDAY.

Week #1
Lesson: Begin at the centre
A good way to explore any subject is to look for the centre, or a cornerstone. A reference point. Many years ago the south of France developed a style of red wine that is ideal for everyday drinking – refreshing, earthy and nourishing. And affordable. The wine equivalent of home cooked food. Real and satisfying. Just about all of the world’s reds are ‘richer’ or ‘lighter’ editions of Côtes du Rhône. Know it, and you’ll know how to play all the other wines.

BEST USE: House wine. Works great with almost any food.
BUY: Louis Bernard 08 Cotes du Rhone, France 581645 $11.80 ($10.80 till Jan end.) Pages #198/199
P.S. It was the 2007 vintage that I reviewed for the book. The 08 is less rich and would fall in my Rustic section.