Winemakers all over the world are tired of producing Chard & Co and are excited by the potential of grapes that have been ignored and almost forgotten. All it takes now is for us to get involved by purchasing and drinking. This Vintages release offers six really good examples of this third style, from Italy, France, Austria, Greece and Argentina. I’ve included a sparkling as it fits the fresh, frank style of the other wines. All best suited to summer, so stock up.

In reds I’m also hoping for a bit of swing back to something lighter and less showy – bistro wines. My Bordeaux and Rhone picks are very bistro, as is the new-style Aussie Shiraz. There’s a coffee theme to my final two reds. And I don’t mean Tim’s.

White wines ‘THIRD STYLE’ – light and refreshing
1. BORGO CONVENTI 10 Pinot Grigio, Isonzo del Friuli, Italy 13276 $16.95
Here’s a fantastic white for the purist. Very dry with wonderful mineral freshness – in the Chablis-style. The lowly Pinot Grigio can be upscale if the producer tries hard enough. Classy aperitif.

2. CAVE de VIRE 09 Vire-Clesse, Burgundy, France 243782 $16.95
Vire is a parish in the Macon region – the home of non-oaked (pure) Chardonnay. This one is very dry, down-to-earth, but somehow also feels classy. It’s the French thing! Aperitif or seafood appetizer.

3. TSELEPOS 10 Moschofilero, Mantinia, Greece 724583 $16.95
I love the honest, unadorned feeling here – so simple and so good. A must-by for warm summer evenings. Super dry and refreshing with the appetizing savoury flavours typical of Greek whites. Has the seaside-salty-spray-feeling that’s so good in a summer wine. Aperitif or seafood.

4. WEINGUT ZAHEL 10 Gruner Veltliner, Austria 181594 $15.95 (from a previous release)
Gruner has the purity and lightness of a dry Riesling along with a citrussy zing. Spring day feeling – as suggested by the lime green label. Wonderful refresher or patio lunch wine.

5. GRAN LURTON 10 ‘Corte Friulano’, Mendoza, Argentina 66829 $19.95
Francois Lurton makes wine all over the world – sometimes it has French flair, and sometimes it’s commercially crowdpleasing. This is one of his most brilliant creations – a blend of four grapes crafted in the very pure style of Italian whites from the Friuli region (see wine #1). Super fresh and very dry with a slight earthiness. But the overall feeling is of elegance and poise. Very different from the bold flavoured whites we’ve become used to over the past few decades. What a great ambassador for blended whites. And a possible role model for our local white blends. And a kick in the pants for the theory that hot climates cannot produce cool-feeling whites. One sip and you’re not going to let the bottle get away. Treat yourself and good friends over the summer season. Great just to sip, or to start an alfresco meal.

6. CODORNIU Brut Cava ‘Seleccion Raventos’, Spain 521773 $14.95
This is not news to those who know, but Codorniu ‘Raventos’ is probably the best budget sparkling wine on the planet. Very dry, yeasty and loaded with Champagne-like teases. All of this at an everyday price.

OTHER WHITES
House Chardonnay
BLACKSTONE 10 Chardonnay, Monterey, California 994509 $15.95
Blackstone always wins me over with the frank feeling and value of their wines. This is good, mid-range, house Chardonnay – with great drinkability.

Something different
SMALL GULLY 08 Viognier ‘The Formula – Helen’s Harmony’, Barossa, Australia 269332 $19.95
Viognier is often peachy pretty but this is more punky. A livewire with appetizing savours flavours and lots of electricity. Sure there’s something exotic too but mainly what you get is a good-time-summer-evening feeling. Would be sensational with BBQ’d chicken smothered in fresh herbs.

Good local
KACABA 09 Chardonnay ‘Barrel Fermented’, VQA Niagara 262436 $22.95
Big Chard flavours with a suggestion of richness. But it’s also wild and zingy. Refreshing aperitif, and nourishing food wine.

Traditional Chardonnay
Mac MURRAY RANCH 09 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California 262063 $21.95
Huge flavours and richness. Lush and very Californian. For the fan of big. Almost a dessert!

REDS
Bistro Red
CH. HAUT-CANTELOUP, Blaye, Cotes de Bordeaux, France 264747 $13.95
Earthy, refreshing and honest. A merlot/Cab with some punk – the original form. Appetizing, refreshing and not too alcoholic. Wine for everyday.

Bistro plus
LAVAU 09 Vacqueyras, Rhone, France 104927 $18.95
Regular readers will know of my fondness for Southern Rhone reds and lately I’ve been recommending lots in the rich, warmhearted style. This guy is lighter, more rustic, refreshing – not unlike a Burgundy (Pinot Noir). Rhone often has this feature. Wonderfully suggestive, very bistro – wine to impress the food as well as the company. Best with simply grilled meats.

Bistro
PLUNKETT–FOWLES 08 Shiraz ‘Stone Dwellers’, Victoria, Australia 265967 $19.95
Here’s something different in Aussie Shiraz – wine with an edge, and an earthiness. There is a suggestion of Shiraz’s home in the Rhone – a perfect Aussie/French combo experience. Part of the new Aussie styling – crafting wines that are as good with food as impressing people.

Rich, crowd-pleaser
MONTES 09 Carmenere, ‘Limited Selection’, Chile 256685 $14.95
Montes keeps scoring with wines at this price. This is over-the-top with crowdpleasing spicy flavours and smoothness. Red wine for the Grande, Mocca Latte drinker.

Novel Red
BARISTA 10 Pinotage, South Africa 172585 $15.95
Pinotage is a South African speciality that could be likened to our Baco Noir. Tart, wild and back-woodsy. An interesting detour when you’re tired of nice. This one has some ‘coffee shop’ flavours and warmth – hence the name. Best with braised or BBQed meats – winter or summer.

SWEET
G. MARQUIS 09 Vidal Icewine, ‘Silver Line’ VQA Niagara 262477 200ml/$27.95
From Magnotta winery who always deliver the most concentrated icewines, at the most reasonable price.

Carmenere and Ripasso are the best bets in red but you must have at least one summer supper with Moulin-a-Vent, the queen of Beaujolais.

SPARKLING
wine style: dry sparkling
MUMM NAPA Rosé Sparkling, Napa Valley, California 205641 $29.95
Champagne-style wine and quality at half the price. Elegant and exciting way to start an event. Best sparkling I’ve tasted in a long time.

WHITES
wine style: fresh white
MIKE WEIR 08 Riesling, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake 229286 $14.95
Mike scores with a classic local Riesling. Fruity, spicy and dancing its feet off. Dry with a sweet kiss. Delicious summer drink.

wine style: rich white
KENNETH VOLK 07 Chardonnay, Santa Maria Cuvée, California 233981 $19.95
Chardonnay doesn’t get much more glamorous and rich. Quite the wow for twenty dollars. BBQ white or late evening sipper.

wine style: nice & easy white
THE WINERY OF GOOD HOPE 09 Chenin Blanc, South Africa 158121 $11.95
Fruity, slightly sweet and very crowd-pleasing. Check out this popular South African party sipper, or BBQ white.

wine style: fresh white
MICHEL DELHOMMEAU 09 Muscadet ‘Harmonie’, Loire, France 164624 $12.95
Not your usual plain Muscadet but an elegant wine with delicate flavours and wonderful freshness. To start the evening with appetizers. Note: this is a previous release.

wine style: fresh white
MEINKLANG 09 Gruner Veltliner, Austria 219014 $15.95
More flavourful and yummy than most Gruners, but zesty and refreshing too. Delicious stuff. And organic too. Would be a lovely treat with an alfresco lunch.

wine style: fresh white
BODEGAS GARCIAREVALO 09 Verdejo ‘Tres Olmos’, Rueda, Spain 218354 $13.95
Verdejo is Spain’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc. But not as brash. I like the mix of earthy and fresh feelings. Very characterful and dying for a food partner.

REDS
wine style: rich red
PAHLMEYER 08 Pinot Noir, Sonoma, California148536 $79.95
I seldom recommend wine over $25 but this would blow some people’s minds. Or other bodily parts! Red wine doesn’t come more charming and seductive. Bear skin rug material for sure.

wine style: rich red
ARESTI 08 Carmenere Reserva, Chile 93773 $12.95
Here’s a big bruiser. Heavy rocker. Rich and manly with an attitude. The Aresti style. Steak wine at pork chop price.

wine style: rich red
LUIGI BOSCA 08 Pinot Noir Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina 143420 $17.95
Pinot with a little macho Argentinian tang. Could be related to Pinotage. Perfect for BBQ’d red meats.

wine style: rustic red
DOMAINE DE SAINT ENNEMOND 09 Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais, France 207910 $17.95
Cru-Beaujolais with the more solid personality of Pinot Noir. But at a lower price. Check out this guy with grilled salmon.

wine style: rustic red
ANTICHE TERRE 08 Valpolicella Ripasso, Veneto, Italy 178459 $14.95
A solid Ripasso. Italian gusto along with a hit of nourishment. Classic Ripasso. Italian red wine at its best.

ROSÉ
wine style: dry Rosé
EMILIANA 2010 Rosé Syrah, ‘Adobe’, Chile 229690 $11.95
Drier than most Chilean Rosés. Good mix of freshness and fruitiness. Nice price, and it’s organic too.

wine style: dry Rosé
FEATHERSTONE 2010 Rosé, VQA Niagara 117861 $14.95
Best Rosé yet from Featherstone. A cross between the berry flavours of Rioja and the richer Provence style. And packing a ton of freshness. Sort of perfect!

wine style: dry Rosé
SOUTHBROOK 2010 Organic  Rosé ‘Connect’, VQA Niagara 168492 $18.95
Another excellent local dry Rosé in the mid-range between refreshment and mealtime nourishment. Very French café-ish, but will work on your patio too. Organic.

Quintarelli is a wine folk hero and always worth the experience. You are sure to please putting Malivoire’s Rosé on the Thanksgiving table. (And any of my white picks would be popular too.) Chateau St. Jean is a must for Pinot addicts.

ROSE
wine style: dry rosé
MALIVOIRE 09 Rosé ‘Ladybug’, VQA Niagara 559088 $15.95
Delicious fruitiness and some richness. Perfect for Thanksgiving and stock up for Christmas too. Dry Rosé is a great food wine in general.

WHITES
wine style: fresh white
PETER LEHMANN 08 Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia 186361 $14.95
Tart, super refreshing with a tease of citrusy flavours. Unusually understated and low alcohol for an Aussie. Aperitif.

wine style: nice & easy white
SOELLNER ‘Toni’ Grüner Veltliner, Austria 184085 $14.95
Zippy, spicy with a gentle and friendly feeling. Better than a happy pill.

wine style: rich white
TORRES ‘Gran Vina Sol’ 08 Chardonnay, Penedes, Spain 171660 $14.95
Semi-rich Chardonnay with a refreshing tartness. And a solid earthy feeling. Built for food, not glamour. Good value.

REDS
wine style: rustic red
LITTLE YERING 08 Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia 188094 $14.95
A great buy for fans of ‘barnyard’ Pinots. Raunchy and very Burgundian. Needs food. Check out more value wines from this winery on the regular LCBO shelves.

wine style: rich red
CHATEAU ST. JEAN 07 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California 687970 $19.95
Big, lush and seductive. Very Californian. Would impress at a fancy dinner. St. Jean always does well with Pinot.
wine style: rich red
QUINTARELLI 01 Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 986117 $84.95
Vapolicella that thinks it’s Tawny Port. Lush, spicy, earthy and full of mystery. More exciting, and more rare, than most Amarones or any wine at this price. Quintarelli delivers the goods. Treat yourself, or gift a good friend. Sip after dinner.

wine style: rich red
LES COTEAUX 07 ‘Visan’, Cotes du Rhone-Village, France 179226 $13.95
A yummy, spicy, peppery, rich red for those who missed the Rhone special a few weeks ago.
wine style: rich red
CHARLES CIMICKY 06 Shiraz ‘Trumps’, Barossa Valley, Australia 07383 $24.95
Dark, dense and solid. With a plummy, Port-like warmth. I’d pour this after dinner.

wine style: rich red
WYNNS 06 Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, Australia 84996 $24.95
Wynns Coonawarra is an Australian classic. Modeled on Bordeaux, it combines boldness with some seriousness. As formal as it gets down under. Needs beef, of course.

wine style: rich red
MAXWELL 08 Shiraz/Grenache/Viognier ‘Four Roads’, McLaren Valley, Australia 57000 $19.95
Cotes du Rhone in style with extra ripeness and richness. Guaranteed to be a crowd-pleaser with any hearty meal.

I will be covering Sparkling, Sweet and other holiday favourites over the next few weeks but you should consider the following for novelty and down right good value. The Chilean Pinot and Chardonnay, or the French Fitou and Vouvray pair would wow most dinner party guests. Grüner Veltliner would be a lively start for your holiday parties and Mas Donis would hit the spot later in the evening. If you’re favouring local, Le Clos Jordanne is a world champ in Pinot Noir at its price point.
Slainte,
Billy
WHITES
Wine style: Fresh white
Markus Huber ‘Hugo’ 08 Grüner Veltliner, Austria 641506 $13.95
Lively, super refreshing and jazzy. Lots of energy. The perfect opening act for your holiday events. Or for after work chilling out. In screw cap. You may never go back to Pinot Grigio!

Wine style: Fresh white
Donatien Bahuaud 08 Vouvray ‘Les Grands Mortiers’, Loire, France 140889 $16.95
Something different. Tart white with gorgeous honey sweet flavours. A yin yang of refreshment and charm. And modest alcohol. A lovely anytime sipper, aperitif or brunch wine.

Wine style: rich white
Tabali 07 Chardonnay ‘Reserva Especial’, Chile 663005 $18.95
The glamour of Chardonnay without the usual overkill. Understated richness and tons of zest. Refreshing enough for an aperitif, big enough for the main course.

REDS
Wine style: rustic red
Le Clos Jordanne 07 Pinot Noir ‘Village Reserve’, VQA Niagara 33894 $25.00
Gutsy edition of Pinot with the earthy character of Burgundy. Bravo! If you enjoy traditional wines this is a super value. And a role model for the future of local Pinot. Partner with bistro-style foods. Or the big bird on the 25th.

Wine style: rich red
Errazuriz 08 Pinot Noir ‘Wild Ferment’, Chile 510396 $18.95
The ripe fruit flavours and richness of New World Pinot combined with something earthy and funky. Lots of vitality too. Pinot to flatter food. Another good partner for Christmas dinner.

Wine style: rich red
Mont Tauch 07 Fitou ‘Tradition’, France
142810 $16.95
A semi-rich south of France red (Syrah, Carignan, Grenache) with lots of flavour – including earth. Wine with a sense of place. The perfect partner for any home cooked meal.

Wine style: rich red
Cellers de Capacanes ‘Mas Donis’ 07 Monstant, Spain 705863 $16.95
A Spanish edition of Côtes du Rhône – with more octane. Delicious flavours, warming richness and vitality. All my favourite qualities in a winter red. Hearty foods.

SWEET/SPARKLING
Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Icewine, VQA Niagara 560367 375ml/$69.95
One of the most decadent wines on the planet. The exotic tropical flavours of Icewine combined with tingling bubbles. A glorious holiday treat. Chill well and sip slowly. After dinner, or late afternoon before dinner.

A few other thinks that worked well that day were my second shot to the par five at Wellington with resulted in my first birdie of the season. Kato had a par on her first ever game! This pretty nine hole course is a must for golfers visiting the county. Note the three advertisers on the score card: a chiropractor, a financial adviser and a funeral home. Stuff that crosses the mind on a bad round!

Caught P.J.O’Rourke on the way home talking about his new book ‘Driving like Crazy’. Nobody does social commentary better or funnier. A burger always hits the spot after golf and this day it went to a new high thanks to the wine, Casal Thaulero 07 Sangiovese. (I’ll post my review soon). Or maybe it was O’Rourke’s wit, my birdie or the Grüner lunch!

WINZER KREMS 08 Grüner Veltliner, Austria  589002 $10.85

P.S. This is the only Grüner at the LCBO, but you’ll finds lots in the Vintages section.