WHITE
JACKSON-TRIGGS 09 ‘SILVER SERIES’ GEWURZTRAMINER, VQA Niagara 247767 $19.95
Jackson-Triggs attempt at a dry, rich style Gewurz is a huge success. It’s an exciting wine because the three elements – flavour, richness and freshness are all playing equally well. Working the tune like a jazz trio. Impossible to drink this wine and not feel happy.

RED
HENRY OF PELHAM 09 BACO NOIR RESERVE, VQA Ontario 461699 $24.95 (see yesterday’s post)

HENRY OF PELHAM 09 FAMILY TREE RED, VQA Niagara 247882 $18.95
Medium-bodied, multi-grape blend with bright flavours and lots of vitality. Cheerful and very gulpable. Very bistro. Nice peppery flavours from the Syrah in the blend.

ROSEWOOD 09 PINOT NOIR, VQA Twenty Mile Bench 112177 $20
Delish with very bright, natural flavours. Drinking beautifully now. A rare good value in local Pinot. Get lots.

LAILEY 09 PINOT NOIR, VQA Niagara 591404 $25
I always enjoy the frank, ‘drink me’ quality of Lailey Pinot. And they don’t over charge.

LAMMERSHOEK 06 ROULETTE, Swartland, South Africa 58164 $23.95
Super-rich, warming lush version of Chateauneuf du Pape. Will be a wonderful winter night companion.

Henry’s Reserve Baco

P.S. I recently had the opportunity to taste ten old vintages of Henry’s Reserve Baco and if you have a cellar I recommend you start including it. Get this 09 and follow with the wonderful 10 which will be at the winery next year. Two or three years aging is sufficient.

HENRY OF PELHAM 09 BACO NOIR RESERVE, VQA Ontario 461699 $24.95
***available for the September 3rd Vintages release. My few other recommendations from this release will be posted tomorrow.

Pinot is always a bit premium priced but fans are usually willing to pay up. Especially if the quality is there. Such as with Henry’s 07 just released at LCBO Vintages.

The style is very local which means it’s similar to Burgundy. Down and earthy, farmyardy and even dirty. All the stuff that serious Pinot fans love and crave. There’s lots of pleasant stuff in the wine too so it’s okay to pour for non-pinot people. At peak now so drink this Fall or Winter. Or it will really get nasty.

HENRY OF PELHAM 07 PINOT NOIR RESERVE VQA NIAGARA 268392 $24.95

Burgundy is the feature but I couldn’t find either a value or a treat.

Slainte.
Billy

WHITES
Wine style: fresh white
ST. LUCAS 10 Torrontes, Mendoza, Argentina 694513 $11.95
Torrontes is a the Argentinian edition of Muscat. This one is big on refreshment and would be a good intro to the grape. Not to mention a popular house wine.

Wine style: fresh white
SALMON-UNDHOF 10 Gruner Veltliner, Austria 669606 $12.95
Seriously, dry, tart and refreshing. Shades of dry Riesling with a little spice. Something different to start the evening.

Wine style: fresh white
PALACIO DE OTAZU 08 Chardonnay, Navarra, Spain 211003 $14.95
Refreshing, non-oaked Chardonnay that explodes with energy. Five star aperitif or partner for seafood.

Wine style: nice & easy white
DARTING 08 Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany 950212 $15.95
Delish, delish, off-dry sipper. Typical spicy flavours of the Pfalz region. Low alcohol, summer in the garden wine. Darting has been sending us delish Riesling for at least two decades.

Wine style: nice & easy white
CATTAIL CREEK Chardonnay Musque, VQA Four Mile Creek
222257 $17.50
Forget the Chardonnay word and thing dry white wine with a hit of lime and a dash of Muscat spicy sweetness. Off-dry but quite refreshing. Hard to imagine a better summer drink. Cattail are doing really well with their whites.

Wine style: rich whites
LAMMERSHOEK 08 ‘Roulette Blanc’, South Africa 225458 $16.95
BELLINGHAM 08 ‘Fair Maiden’, South Africa 220020 $17.95
These are blockbuster, Rhone-style whites. Broad, lush – would be palate killers if it were not for their vitality. Hulks with moves.  Certainly an experience. I suggest late evening drinking.

SPARKLING

Wine style: dry sparkling
OYSTER BAY Sparkling Brut, New Zealand 163634 $21.95
A Chard sparkler with a delicious tease of delicate flavours. Very classy, very Champagne-ish but not too austere. To refresh, to celebrate, to live-it-up. Big time bargain.

REDS
Wine style: fresh red
HENRY of PELHAM 09 Gamay, VQA Short Hills Bench 291112 $14.95
Bright, light and gulpable – just how Gamay should be. Great vitality, great refreshment. Sure to put you in the mood for summer. Lightly chill.

Wine style: rich red
CAVE de RASTEAU 09 Cotes du Rhone-Villages, ‘Ortas’, France 998716 $15.00
A shade more lush and Merlot-ish than most Rhones so be prepared for instant seduction. Could be the crowdpleaser of the year.

Wine style: rich red
BELLINGHAM 06 ‘Dragon’s Lair’, South Africa 68692 $19.95
A Rhone grape blend combining richness and spicy flavours with an earthy, rustic feeling. Lots of character and the something different quality of South African reds. Needs a hearty supper.

Niagara Riesling is back on form with the 08 vintage so it’s time to start buying again. I’m recommending a Malbec for all you fans of big reds.

P.S. DRY ROSÉ
Add to my previous list of recommended Rosés from Vintages May 15th release.
MALIVOIRE 09 Rosé ‘Ladybug’, VQA Niagara 559088 $15.95
More pleasant than refreshing. A little smokiness suggests pairing it with BBQ’d foods.

WHITES

wine style: fresh white
HENRY OF PELHAM 08 Reserve Riesling Off-Dry, VQA Short Hill Bench 557165 $15.95
Crisp with beautiful pure flavours and loaded with refreshment. Dancing lightly – a great tease for the palate. Almost bone dry. Age a year or two, or have with your next patio lunch.

wine style: fresh white
STRATUS 08 Riesling, VQA Niagara 131011 $29.20
Already delivering the ‘petrol’ flavours so loved by some Riesling fans. Exuberant, confident and concentrated, with a perfect balance of zest and fruitiness. The austerity of Dry Riesling with a hit of glamour. Expensive but special.

wine style: fresh white
JEAN-MICHEL SORBE 08 Reuilly, Loire, France 168898 $17.95
DOMAINE LECOMTE 08 Quincy, Loire, France 172528 $18.95
These Loire whites offer something different in Sauvignon Blanc – more grace than force. Refreshment with a gentle purr. And a classy feeling.

REDS
wine style: lively red
DOMAINE DU CARROI 08 Chinon ‘Cuvée des Folies’, Loire, France 170241 $13.95
Very tart, very refreshing and a bit of a challenge. This is Cab Franc in its purest form – invigorating, lighthearted stuff for summer lunches and picnics.

wine style: rich red
FINCA EL ORIGEN 08 Malbec Gran Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina 65425 $19.95
Big, jammy, smooth and rich. Move over Merlot. Crowd-pleaser.

SWEET WHITE
CH. SOUCHERIE 02 Coteaux du Layon, Loire, France 952069 $18.95
Luscious, honeyed wine that feels both sweet and refreshing. Best value sweet wine in the world – a MUST buy. And get lots, because this Chenin Blanc wine ages beautifully – usually up to 30 to 50 years!

Chateau des Charmes 07 Chardonnay is a lovely mix of charm (honest) and refreshment. No heavy perfume, tiring richness or posing. Instead expect a composed and polite wine. Canadian excellence.

There’s some richness in Henry’s wine but it’s also understated. Shades of the delicious everyday Chardonnays of the Macon region in France. A delightful anytime drink.

CHATEAU des CHARMES 07 Chardonnay ‘Estate’, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake 81653 $13.95 (shown)

HENRY of PELHAM 07 Chardonnay ‘Reserve’, VQA Niagara 252833 $14.95

While it would be ‘cool’ to match local wines with each Olympic sport I’m not doing it because I didn’t get the contract. Nobody did. Besides it’s probably illegal to mention wine on sports programs. A TV producer once told me that I couldn’t be shown pouring or drinking the wine I was discussing on his program. Perhaps they should edit athletes doing risky somersaults or traveling at speeds in excess of 20 clicks!

As you know I’m into matching wine with mood/situation so this and future Olympic picks is based on how you’re feeling or what you’re eating.

Eating a burger while watching hockey, curling or scantily clad skaters? Several glasses of Henry’s Baco Noir will put you in a relaxed, quietly confident mood. Baco is the under dog red – very Canadian.

HENRY of PELHAM 07 Baco Noir, VQA Ontario 270926 $13.65

Niagara’s cool climate and soil structure are ideal 
for producing classic-style Sparkling. Such as Ch. des Charmes which has the high-pitched note and pure quality of Champagne.  Quality bubbly.
Chateau des Charmes Brut, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario 145409 $22.95

Henry’s Brut Rosé is a mix of challenging austerity and delicate flavours. Refreshing, stimulating and inspiring the imagination. Perfect.
Henry of Pelham Brut Rosé ‘Cuvee Catharine’, VQA Niagara 4051 $29.75

Despite its hot climate, California produces very elegant Sparkling wines. Mumm Napa combines tart refreshment with sourdough flavours that create a hugh desire for food. Topnotch aperitif.
Mumm Napa Brut ‘PRESTIGE’, California 265678 $27.75

WHITES
Tedeschi 08 Soave ‘Capitel Tenda’, Vento, Italy 730903 $15.95
wine style: fresh white
Soave is usually simple but this one feels elegant and expensive. Upscale house wine with delicate flavours and a crisp, starched-shirt feeling. Italian whites keep impressing.

Taste a World Class Local
One of the wines that Niagara can stand tall with is Dry Riesling. And here is a taste test that I’d love you to take. Go to a major LCBO this Saturday and buy Thirty Bench 08 Riesling which you’ll find in the Vintages section. Chill and have for aperitif, and maybe with oysters, sushi or your favourite seafood appetizers.
The unique statement in good local Dry Riesling is a jolt and a purity that’s similar to Champagne. The violins tuning-up before the concert, your morning ski run on fresh snow, or driving home in your new car. It’s a rush. It’s about ‘the thrill’.
Dry Riesling is the Black Dress of the wine world. So simple, so good at giving nothing away, and such a good entry. Make Thirty Bench your ‘entry wine’ this Saturday.

P.S. Act two would be to get in the car on Sunday and drive to the winery for their single vineyard Dry Rieslings ($30) which you will hide in the basement for a year or two because they’re not ready yet. Thirty Bench have some of the oldest plantings of Riesling in Niagara. See my Niagara Tour for more info on this brilliant winery.

Thirty Bench 08 Riesling, VQA Beamsville Bench 24133 (Vintages)  $18.70

Yalumba ‘Y Series’ 08 Riesling, Australia 625129 $15.95
wine style: fresh white
Lots of citrussy zest and with a shade more flavour than in our locals. Fun to drink anytime. Aussie Riesling is one of the most overlooked wines in the world.

Paul & Mallory Talmard 07 Macon-Uchizy, Burgundy, France 733956 $16.95
wine style: rich white
Great value in semi-rich Chardonnay. Tons of flavour but drier and more food friendly than hot climate editions of this grape.
P. S. Grant Burge 07 Chardonnay ‘Summers’, Australia (57315 $19.95) is named after the winery’s accountant – honouring his 30 years of service. Nice, eh! And how’s the wine? A bit tight and reserved, of course.

REDS
Monte del Frà 08 Bardolino, Veneto, Italy
134544 $13.95
wine style: lively red
Here’s a light, seriously tart red that’s strictly for the fan. Tons of pucker and an honest quality rarely found in today’s wine world. Needs a bowl of pasta – but have a glass while the water is boiling.

Henry of Pelham 07 Gamay, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara 291112 $14.95
wine style: lively red
Pelham hits a mid-point between Beaujolais and Barbera. Fun and gutsy. Great stuff for early in the evening. Lightly chill.

Tenuta di Capraia 06 Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 135277 $19.95
wine style: rustic red
Classic Chianti. Tart, gutsy, earthy and challenging. Invigorating stuff for fall and winter dinners.

Bishop by Ben Glaetzer 07 Shiraz, Barossa Valley. Australia 627869 $29.95
wine style: rich red

…and a Rosé too!
Lighthearted, sort of fruity, sort of refreshing – but mainly fun. A low alcohol gulper for any sunny day. Lighthearted price too. Handy screwcap.
Henry of Pelham 07 Rosé Dry, VQA Niagara $12.45 ($11.45 July 19 to August 15)

Niagara Wineries are finding great success with white wines that contain a little sweetness. And in many cases the spicy, exotic flavours of the Gewurztraminer. Flat Rock’s Twisted, Hillebrand’s Trius White and Inniskillin’s Brae Blanc have a big following and are likely to be joined by Henry of Pelham’s Sibling Rivalry 08 White (#4001353 $13.95).

This kid is very zesty, very pretty and very summery. A crowd-pleaser for sure, but there is a simplicity that may find you wanting something else after your first glass. Sibling Rivalry 07 Red is also crafted in the want-to-win-you-over style – with spicy/sweet flavours and softness we associate with Aussie reds.

Pelham is obviously going after the novice drinker with these wines and the question of the day is, does a winery with a reputation for quality and tradition risk damaging its reputation by introducing lighthearted brands?

HENRY of PELHAM Brut ‘Cuvée Catharine’, VQA Niagara 616441 LCBO Vintages $29.95

A lovely Niagara Pinot Gris, an exuberant Riesling from New Zealand and a knock-out Gewurz from Italy are the pick of the whites. Finally, I recommend you work a little cider refreshment into your summer with Clos Saint-Denis from Quebec.

Cheers!
Billy

P.S. Loved the wine name ‘Hazyblur’, too bad this Aussie red is not worth the $35 price tag.

Style: EVERYDAY NICE WHITE
MALIVOIRE 08 Pinot Gris, VQA Niagara 591305 $18.95
Lighthearted, everyday white. Crisp enough to refresh and pleasant enough to gulp. Stylish new packaging. Perfect hostess gift.

Style: EVERYDAY NICE WHITE
KIM CRAWFORD 05 Riesling ‘The Mistress’, New Zealand 90134 $24.95
Lemon fresh with delicious fruity sweetness. And the explosion of flavour that happens with aged Riesling. Rich and concentrated enough for supper, but also lively enough for the cocktail hour.

Style: RICH WHITE
CANTINA TRAMIN 07 Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige, Italy 117028 $19.95
Super rich Gewurz from the home of that grape. Gorgeous, exotic flavours. A late summer evening sipper. Sexy stuff.

FRESH SPARKLING
HENRY of PELHAM Brut ‘Cuvée Catharine’, VQA Niagara 616441 $29.95
Austere, stony dry in the Champagne style. ALmost no flavour but full of character – a high note that leaves you hanging and wanting more. Outstanding aperitif. Best batch yet of this wine – and possibly the best ever Brut out of Niagara.

REDS
Style: (ALMOST) RICH RED
COOPERS CREEK 07 Syrah, New Zealand 120808 $19.95
Fruity, peppery Syrah in the French style. Bright, lively, fun and very gulpable. Great Summer red. Moderate alcohol level.

Style: RICH RED
LINTON PARK 04 Shiraz, Paarl, South Africa 910844 $15.95
Juicy, peppery, lively and delicious Shiraz for the BBQ season. A little smokiness, a lot of yummy drinkability, and good value. Go get it.

Style: RICH RED
PALLISER 06 Pinot Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand 120766 $28.95
Spicy, sweet, seductive New World-style Pinot. A charmer for sure. Good with everything. Could spice up your life.

Style: RICH RED
CARRICK 06 Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand 919837 $39.95
Serious Pinot in the Burgundian-style. Bone dry, firm – traditional red wine character. Could use another year in the bottle.

Style: RICH RED
RAVENSWOOD 06 Zinfandel ‘Vintners Blend’, California 359257 $17.95
Big, bright, spicy Zin. Ton of flavour but not dense or weighty – could have some Beaujolais genes. Fun stuff for all your summer BBQs. Permanently available at all major LCBOs.

CIDER
Style: REFRESHING CIDER
CLOS SAINT-DENIS 07 Cider, Quebec 89490 $15.95
Dry cider that kicks in at 10 percent alcohol – a sipper. Refreshing appley flavours with the earthy character of Calvedos. The tartness would hit the spot on a hot afternoon. Lovely cheerful label.

the low down The wonderful 07 Vintage is the current hot topic but don’t overlook the wines of 06, which are drinking really well right now. This cool year produced light wines that are truly local in character.

There are 2 district regions – the flat lands of Niagara-on-the-Lake (NOTL) and the more sloped escarpment of Beamsville/Jordan/Vineland. The two regions are separated by the city of St. Catharines. If you’re on a day trip, I suggest you don’t try to visit both regions as this involves highway travel and that ruins the Niagara experience. The QEW is to Niagara what Yonge Street is to Toronto – a central artery best avoided. You need at least two days. Three would be better – especially if you want to take time to smell the roses. I like to do the Niagara-on-the-Lake region first, heading down York Road to Queenston, and then up the beautiful Parkway. A little refreshment on the back patio of the Riverbend Inn, and I’m in the zone.

Don’t spend all your time at wineries. At least take a break for lunch.

When confronted by a tasting bar with dozens of wines, try saying this: “Take me through a day of wine – lunch, aperitif, appetizers, main course, after dinner, nite cap. And how about something novel, an adventure?” This way you’re tasting with context in mind.

Niagara is producing some of the most exciting $20-$30 wines in the world.

Treat yourself. If you’re spending a few days consider staying at Inn on the Twenty in Jordan. Upscale but friendly, relaxed and everything in good taste. Some rooms have a garden, and breakfast in the grand dining room is a fab way to start the day.

On the restaurant scene, Stone Road Grille, located just outside Niagara-on-the-Lake is a rare Ontario edition of the bistro experience. Locally popular, personable owners and staff, bustling, informal atmosphere, generous  food portions, a commitment to local produce and wines, reasonable prices…you must go. (Reservations 905-468-3474)

best new attractions: Southbrook’s stunning modern winery – with a ‘great wall’ and pizza patio. Organized Crime’s sexy tasting room. Olson’s Foods and Bakery shop at Ravine Winery. Chefs Michael and Anna Olson have opened a big food shop/café on a lovely woodsy hillside in the village of St. David’s. It’s part of a complex containing Ravine Winery. Top quality foods and a rustic setting – can’t beat that.

Best winery reception on my last visit was by Lindsay at Thirty Bench. Most intelligent restaurant service was Christina at Hillebrand.

NIAGARA WINERIES – Beamsville Bench

peninsula ridge www.peninsularidge.com Upscale, with a high end restaurant. French winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas is re-learning his craft in Niagara. And doing well, especially with whites. Start with the 07 Viognier ($14), an interesting, herbaceous white – great food partner. Then move on to Sauvignon Blancs – the lively, aperitif-style 07 Wismer ($19) and the richer 06 Fumé Blanc ($27). Enthusiasts may want to check out the amazingly concentrated and rich Reserve 06 Viognier ($39). The everyday 06 Shiraz ($14) and Merlot ($16) at the LCBO are my favourite reds and the 06 Reserve Shiraz ($29) may also turn out to be a star on another level.

angels gate winery www.angelsgatewinery.com Nouveau riche-style house nestled into the hillside. Lunches indoors or on the patio. Pretty place but hard to say if they want to be formal or casual. The wines are good – with a light touch in the making and the pricing. The 07 Riesling ($14) and 07 Gewurztraminer ($16) are delicious, anytime drinks. Gorgeous flavours, off-dry and very gulpable. Age the Riesling if you’re a fan. My fav reds are the rustic, very Italianesque 06 Gamay Noir ($13) – really gets you going – and the light and lively 06 Pinot Noir ($19) which is also rustic and quite earthy. I like the old-fashioned, bistro character in both of these reds.

thirty bench www.thirtybench.com Not great on curb appeal but this little joint gets three awards from me: most improved wines, best tasting- room personnel, and best wine descriptions by winemaker Natalie Reynolds. I also like the option to taste at your own bar table. Improvements here are thanks to new owners, the former bad guys of local wine, Andrés (Baby Duck), now known as Hillebrand and Peller Estates. Dry Riesling is the star, closely followed by Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and the Bordeaux blend in reds. Small Lot ‘Wood Post’ 07 Riesling ($30) is edgy but quite flavourful. The ‘Steel Post’ 07 ($28) is super-austere, and my favourite, the ‘Triangle Vineyard’ 07 ($30) feels like a mix of both – steely, elegant and superb. Thirty Bench has some of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Niagara. Small Lot 07 Gewurztraminer ($30) is a stunner for flavour and richness. A wow for sure – too good to share with food. If it’s richness you want in Chard check out the Small Lot 06 ($30). Winemakers 06 Red ($22) is a lightish, rustic wine for bowls of pasta or BBQ’d burgers. Benchmark 05 Red ($60) is a big, solid guy in need of a steak.

hidden bench www.hiddenbench.com Niagara’s newest aiming-for-the-top winery. Big budget, restored old farmhouse and huge barn. Very good, high-end wines by a French winemaker Jean-Martin Bouchard. The stars are a super-rich, 06 white Meritage called ‘Nuit Blanche’ ($40) and the red equivalent called 05 ‘La Brunante’ ($70). Not a fun sort of place to take your drinking buddies.

organized crime www.organizedcrimewine.com Great name! Go to their website for the story behind it. Looks very plain from the road but there’s a pleasant patio with a great view, and the tiny wine shop is a bit like a French boudoir. Check out the delish, Beaujolais-style 06 Syrah ($22) and an equally charming 06 Gewurz ($22). Next year the winery will be releasing some sensual 07 wines – Sauv Blanc, Cab Franc and Syrah. All crafted by roving winemaker Andrzej Lipinski (also at Foreign Affair). Talk about a flair for picking wineries with interesting names.

fielding estates www.fieldingwines.com Mountain chalet with a great view from the tasting bar. And friendly, welcoming staff. Hard to get a fix on the wine style as they keep changing winemakers. The 07 Riesling ($16) has gorgeous tropical fruit flavours – not typical Niagara – but would be the perfect choice for Thanksgiving or Christmas. Even richer is the 07 Pinot Gris ‘Rock Pile’ ($24). Should be wonderful in a year or two when it firms up. Rich and slightly sweet is also the style of the very seductive 07 Gewuztraminer ($16). Hit of the year is the outstanding 05 Meritage ($35) – a brilliant local edition of the Bordeaux blend.

mountain road wine company www.mountainroadwine.com Am I entering a winery or a scrap yard? (Both appeal to me). It gets better once you see a café table set against a stone wall. Steve Kocsis has some seriously old Chard vines and it shows in his wine. The 05 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($16) is a must for fans of well aged white Burgundy. Rich and a shade raunchy. Great couch sipping wine. Some older vintages of Icewine are still available including the mellow, supper-sweet and bargain-priced 1999 ($29).

de sousa www.desousawines.com A mini Portugese villa and gardens set on top of the escarpment. Surreal! Delish 06 Gewurztraminer and rustic reds that taste best out of a clay cup – which they provide. Portuguese BBQ in the garden on Saturday and Sunday. Was recently sold to the Diamond Estates group so check website for updates.

malivoire www.malivoire.com Beautiful landscaping, striking entrance and serene tasting room. A modern space with traditional values. Estate wines are organic. My fav wine here is the 06 Gamay ($17) – couldn’t be livelier or brighter, so much fun to gulp. There’s nothing like it on the planet, a true local. Malivoire’s 07 ‘Lady Bug’ Rosé ($16) is as good as ever – refreshing and also substantial enough for food – as is the spicy/sweet Alsace-style 07 Pinot Gris ($20). The 06 Chard ($22) and Pinot Noir ($27) are also excellent. I think Malivoire’s line up of wines is exactly right for the region.

tawse winery www.tawsewinery.ca Welcome to my Chateau! Please close the gate! Well-made, high-end wines in keeping with the fancy surroundings. Exotic Chardonnays and a very understated but sexy 06 Pinot Noir ($32) that would not be out of place in a French restaurant. Lean but characterful. Cabernet Franc may be Tawse’s best red as exhibited by the deep, rich 06 ($38) which is modeled on the top wines from the Bordeaux right bank – solid and serious. Speaking of Bordeaux, Tawse 06 Meritage ($48) is concentrated, elegant and very much in the top league. Give it a year or two.

ridgepoint wines www.ridgepointwines.com Take a break and visit this simple spot for a homemade Italian lunch. The reds have a gutsy, rustic character, so they’re perfect with the pasta.

vineland estates www.vineland.com One of Niagara’s showpieces (one of the best views) complete with a high-end restaurant. Can be a little pretentious. Outstanding Mosel-style Rieslings (at LCBOs), stylish 07 Sauvignon Blanc ($18), 07 Pinot Blanc ($16), and a charming 05 Cabernet/Merlot ‘Elevation’ ($25).

megalomaniac – john howard cellars of distinction www.megalogmaniacwine.com John Howard (former owner of Vineland) is developing his winery in the old style – vineyards first, winery and cellar next and a few years down the road, he may open a retail store. When, and if he does, it will be a spectacle – there are no half measures with John. For now, it’s mail order and sales to restaurants. The juicy, wonderfully refreshing 07 Riesling ($18) is already available and next year it will be followed by a wonderful barrel-aged 07 Savignin, and exciting Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot. The arty, creative wine labels are a bonus.

featherstone www.featherstonewinery.ca David Johnson and Louise Engel operate Featherstone out of the back of their charming old terraced farmhouse. Nice place, nice people – no pretense. All the wines have a light touch and suggest drinking with everyday foods. My favourites are the tart and refreshing 06 Gamay ($15), the seriously rustic 07 Baco/Merlot ‘Gemstone’ ($13) and the house-wine-style 07 Un-oaked Chardonnay ($15). The much touted Black Sheep Vineyard 07 Riesling ($19) has the disjointed feeling of many 07 Rieslings but I’m sure it will settle down.

calamus www.calamuswines.com No fancy resto at this old barn. Very backwoods, very rustic, very small, and very good value. The 07 Un-oaked Chardonnay ($13) is a pleasant, everyday sipper, as is the off-dry 07 Calamus White ($12) and the charming 07 Gewurztraminer ($13). The 07 Riesling ($15) is a bit plain at this stage but should improve.

flat rock cellars www.flatrockcellars.com Novel, sky-pod winery set high on the escarpment that has done everything right in its first few years. Nadja’s Vineyard 07 Riesling ($20) is already a Niagara top ten. Edgy, flinty and as bracing as a morning spring stroll in Newfoundland. A wonderful pure expression of the grape and a must have if you’re a dry Riesling masochist. Flat Rock’s regular Riesling ($17) is medium dry, gentle and perfect for Sunday brunch. Seriously Twisted ($23) is a novel white that’s seriously dry and challenging. Rustic is not a word I use to describe white wine but it fits the bill here. Twisted 06 Red ($20) is light and lively in the Gamay style. A delicious fruity, fun summer red – chill lightly and enjoy.

cave spring cellars www.cavespring.ca A model of consistency in wine. The 07 Estate Riesling ($18) has the elegant, cool/sharp starched-shirt character of the previous vintages. A Niagara star. Chardonnay is another strength here and the 06 Estate ($20) hits a good middle ground between glamour and refreshment. The 07 Chardonnay Musqué ($16) is a real charmer – almost too much fun. Estate 06 Sauv Blanc ($20) and the 06 Estate Gewurztraminer ($20) are highly recommended and available at LCBO Vintages. The jewel in Cave’s crown is the 06 Estate Cab Franc ($25). A copybook bistro red – gutsy, solid, refreshing and stimulating. Not fancy or showy – a wine to engage your appetite and imagination. Cave Spring continues to display their innovation and good taste by developing the village of Jordan: drinks, meals and beds at the Inn on the Twenty, and more of the same down the road at the Jordan Tavern.

clos jordanne www.leclosjordanne.com There isn’t a retail outlet yet, but this joint venture between Vincor and the Burgundy house of Boisset is producing stunning Pinots and Chards in the $30- $65 range. I highly recommend the 06 Village Reserve Pinot Noir ($30). The wines are sold directly to restaurants and online. They also appear at LCBO Vintages once a year.

creekside www.creeksidewine.com Quality keeps getting better and at last there’s a new tasting room, along with a huge patio. You’d swear the 07 Pinot Grigio ($15) was from Italy – super refreshing and fun to drink. Best local edition of this grape. The 07 Close Plant Riesling Reserve ($25) is also a classic – the tightness and poise of a ballerina. Another superb white is the 07 Mike Weir Sauv Blanc ($16) – great flavour concentration and a good food wine. Creekside’s multiple blend white – Laura’s Blend 06 ($18) is not unlike an expensive Burgundy – another good food wine. The premium Shirazes, 06 St. David’s Bench ($35) and 06 Broken Press ($45), may turn out to be Niagara’s best ever with this grape. And you must try the dry, tangy, fruity 07 Rosé Pinot Noir ($15). P. S. Creekside’s contract with Mike Weir wines expired at year-end 08, but they will continue to produce and develop the Wayne Gretzky wines, which are much improved.

13th street www.13thstreetwines.com This long established, four-guy, hobby operation will be expanding and moving around the corner to Fourth Avenue sometime in 09. Two new partners have joined the team, more than doubling the winery’s acreage. For now, it’s business as usual at the tiny location on 13th Street, open Fridays and Saturdays only. What makes Thirteenth Street special is the individual statements in the wines such as the 06 Sandstone Gamay ($25). So characterful – shades of something out of Burgundy. Funk 06 Riesling ($24) is a wonderful combo of spicy flavours and nervy energy, and the 05 Reserve Chardonnay ($26) has exciting deep flavours to partner richness and vitality. A bargain for sure. On the lighter side there’s gorgeous-for-gulping 07 Chardonnay Musqué ($18) and a fun, off-dry Cabernet Rosé ($16) that would be the perfect partner for spicy and hot foods (think Indian).

henry of pelham www.henryofpelham.com Hands-on family operation that’s been one of the cornerstones of Niagara wine. Old coaching inn, interesting 1970s Canadian art collection, light foods and local cheeses available on the patio. Very good wine at all price levels and at last, a smarter-looking label. Excellent Riesling, Chardonnay and Baco at LCBOs. At the winery there’s super-refreshing, sparkling ‘Cuvee Catharine’ in white or rosé ($30), a yummy, very Beaujolais-ish 07 Gamay ($15), a gutsy/rich Baco Reserve ($25), and a very Burgundian 06 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($25).

foreign affair www.foreignaffairwinery.com A Canadian spends time in Milan as trade commissioner and falls in love with Amarone. On his return home, he buys a Niagara vineyard and hires Andrzej Lipinski to produce similar style wines – whites as well as reds – made from dried grapes. Len Crispino may give local wine something it can’t produce naturally – super-rich reds. Be prepared for corresponding super-rich prices. I tasted some stunning barrel samples but the reds need a few years in bottle before one can comment on the $100 price tag. Yet another interesting chapter in local wine!

NIAGARA WINERIES – Niagara-on-the-Lake

chateau des charmes www.chateaudescharmes.com Imposing Chateau surrounded by beautifully manicured vineyards. Rose bushes everywhere – very formal, very French. Bossman Paul Bosc is one of the founders of the modern Canadian wine industry, and has always produced a huge range of wines at all price levels. Check out the super-sexy 07 Viognier ($25) and bold flavoured 06 Gewurztraminer ($20) and the classy 06 Estate Riesling ($16). The 06 Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ ($16) has a wild country character similar to bistro wines in France. Great with a paté or cheese platter. The bold 04 Cabernet/Merlot Estate ($20) also feels French. All the reds need a food partner.

ravine vineyard estate winery www.ravinevineyard.com Located in a beautifully restored (and relocated) Colonial House tucked in behind some trees right in the village of St. Davids. A picture-postcard site overlooking vineyards and woods. The Harber family were smart enough to hire one of the country’s most respected wine gurus – Peter Gamble (former head of VQA and consultant to Stratus) – to manage the project. There’s great local expression (low-alcohol, elegance) in the first batch of wines. The 07 Cab Franc Rosé ($17) could hold its own with anything from Provençe, and the 07 Redcoat (Bordeaux blend) ($19) has bright flavours and vigour. Keep the 07 Cab Franc ($34) for a year or two. Ravine winery and the Olson Food Shop are a great new addition to the Niagara scene.

coyote’s run www.coyotesrunwinery.com The place is not much to look at, but owners Jeff and Lauren Aubry and Niagara pro David Sheppard are cranking out good stuff. The 07 Black Paw Chardonnay ($20) offers richness with a refreshing edge, and the 07 Cabernet ($15) is a dead ringer for something found at a French bistro.

the ice house www.theicehouse.ca Longtime Niagara winemaker Jamie Macfarlane and brother Douglas are specializing in Icewine. Located in a lovely old Peach barn, set back from the Parkway. A house white and red is available on their patio.

frogpond farm www.frogpondfarm.ca Heike Koch and Jens Gemmrich operate Ontario’s first organic winery. Farm animals greet you on arrival. Love that. It’s a ‘small holding’, as they say in agri-talk. The 06 Cab Franc ($16) is a lighthearted, everyday or picnic red. My favourite is the 07 Chambourcin ($14), a tart red with the wildness of Sauvignon Blanc – a great rockin’ local statement.

inniskillin www.inniskillin.com The Grand Dame of Niagara wine just got a much needed face lift. The old barn has been restored and refitted with a modern entrance, a brighter interior and a separate Icewine tasting bar. Other new additions are a snack counter under the shade of the great wisteria and a giant piazza for hanging out with a glass or two. Corporate clients have a new lounge with a Riedel tasting room, and moving the parking lot to the front gives the whole place more curb appeal. You’ll find lots of  values here, such as the zesty fresh 07 Pinot Grigio ($13), a decent 06 Chardonnay ($11), the rich, seductive 06 Montague Chard ($18) and austere, classy 06 Montague Riesling ($20). In reds, the Beaujolais-ish 06 Gamay ($12) is juicy, fruity and fun while the 07 Pinot ($15) is an excellent light, rustic, edition of the grape. The 06 Merlot ($15) is mid-weight and offers good value, while the 06 Meritage ($18) has the richness to contend with a steak. Still in the barrel 07 Montague Merlot ($25) should be a class act of flavour and muscle.

lailey www.laileyvineyard.com Smart, modern tasting room in an old barn. Still a bit of a secret despite turning out some excellent wines. The Lailey family were one of the first to plant alongthe Niagara river. The 07 Sauv Blanc ($16) is reserved and earthy as is the bone dry white blend called Counterpoint ($25). The 06 reds also have an earthy, non-flashy character. Pinot 06 ($25) is tangy dry, Merlot 06 ($25) has Bordeaux elegance and the Syrah 06 ($25) delivers the peppery, vigorous Rhône-style edition of this grape. For more heft and concentration look to the 06 Cabernet/Syrah ($25), and for a really serious red buy the 06 Impromptu ($40).

peller estates www.peller.com Chateau grandeur in keeping with historic homes on the same street. Very much the country manor, complete with elegant restaurant overlooking the vineyards. A lovely lunch stop, with a patio too. One of the smartest tasting rooms in Niagara, offering a full range of wines – some overpriced. But check out the stylish 06 ‘Private Reserve’ Pinot Gris ($16.95), and the charming 06 ‘Private Reserve’ Gamay Noir ($18.95). Very Beaujolais. The Sparkling wines flavoured with Icewine – Ice Cuvée ($30) – will have you swooning all the way out to the parking lot.

jackson-triggs www.jacksontriggswwinery.com One of Niagara’s liveliest, jazziest winery experiences. Brilliant modern design that showcases the vineyards – and you gotta love a place that you can enter without having to open a door. Tina Dehondt, and her enthusiastic staff, create a nice buzz – take the tour and see it all. And pick-up some great everyday wines at everyday prices. The 06 Dry Riesling ($11) is an A1 refresher at the best price in town, and Sauvignon Blanc fans will love the 07 at only $13.95. In reds the 06 Shiraz ($16) is one of Niagara’s hits of the year. For a light, summer red try the lively 04 Pinot Noir ($14). In premium wines check-out the 06 Grand Reserve Riesling ($18) and all the wines in the Delaine Vineyard series.

stratus www.stratuswines.com Niagara’s most stylish/arty/serene winery. I love the cool elegance of this place, and Suzanne Janke’s crew gives you a fantastic tasting experience. None of this would matter if the wines didn’t live up to the ambience, but they do. Currently I’m enjoying the whites because they’re ready, whereas the reds seem a bit reserved. Or maybe it’s me. Gewurztraminer has always been good here but the 06 ($32) is a stunner. Lush, rich, exotic, sexy – a white wine to cuddle up with. I’m not a big Icewine fan but if money was no object I’d sip a lot of the 07 Riesling (225ml/$39). Tart never tasted so sweet, and vice versa. The 05 Stratus White ($44) invites the awesome comment. Cliché but true. Feels like Chardonnay Musqué on steroids – delightfully excessive. A wine to propose with, or serve with foie gras, perhaps to mark an anniversary celebration. The 05 Stratus Red ($44) is quite tight and needs ageing. Stratus 06 Wildass Rosé ($19) is well named because it’s really a light red in the gamey style of Niagara Gamay – French bistro food.

hillebrand www.hillebrand.com Another one of the old gang that’s had a make-over. The place now feels like a mini village. It’s fun to explore the new look-out tower, beautiful patio and big stylish restaurant. Frank Lloyd Wright might even be pleased. The tasting room can be very busy but staff are good at hospitality. First time visitors should allow 2 to 3 hours – book a table on the patio, go taste a few wines, stroll around, and then indulge in lunch or dinner – taking advantage of the excellent food and wine pairings offered on the menu. There’s an awful lot of wines – ‘something for everyone’, as they say. The ‘Artist Label’ series line offers good expressions of the grape varieties at reasonable $12-$14 prices. Favourites are the pretty Muscat, the wild Sauvignon Blanc, the richish Pinot Gris. Then move to the Trius line: Trius 05 Cab Franc ($16) has wonderful flavours, vitality and drinkability while the 07 Trius Merlot ($16) combines sweet fruit with a tangy, rustic character. Lots of gusto and very local. The 06 Trius Red ($20) offers more complexity but still keeps Niagara’s hallmark – vitality. Hats off to Aussie winemaker Darryl Brooker for raising the quality while still crafting truly local wines. Side note: Hillebrand’s Jazz & Blues festivals (July & August) are a great way to spend a summer afternoon. Very stylish picnicking and fab musical lineups.

southbrook www.southbrook.com Architect Jack Diamond has created quite the stir in Niagara with his ultra modern design of this winery. The feature being a huge, long, blue/purple coloured wall. Besides getting your attention, the wall acts as the entrance to the glass and steel hospitality centre which in turn frames the vineyards. Step out to the patio and you’ll see another aspect of the aforementioned wall – it houses a James Bond style pizza oven. How cool is that. Southbrook is not only cool to look at, it is also eco-friendly – the vineyards are organic and bio-dynamic. In keeping with all this newness, Southbrook has switched to jazzy, fun new labels with witty winespeak. Progress at last! Winemaking is in the very capable hands of Ann Sperling who previously helped put Malivoire on the map. I suggest you concentrate on the newer wines – Ann’s stunning 07 Sauv Blanc ($19) – very pure with a solid centre for pairing with food. And the 06 Syrah ‘Triomphe’ ($25) with it’s deep, peppery flavours and Pinot-style grace and drinkability. I’d put this forward as a role model for Niagara reds. Ann has stellar 07 reds in barrels that won’t appear for another year. Southbrook is a must visit to see how far the region has come from the days of plastic sheds and cute ornaments. Be sure to try the whole wheat pizzas.

charles baker www.charlesbaker.ca Charles is the sales director at Stratus but he also makes a tiny quantity of his own Riesling each year. The 07 ‘Picone Vineyard’ Vinemount Ridge ($35) cuts right through the Niagara Riesling world, offering a bit of everything. Especially drinkability. Off-dry and better with some ageing.

strewn winery www.strewnwinery.com Nice grounds and a good mix of modern and old touches in this former canning factory. Look for the refreshing and tasty 07 Reisling/Gewurztraminer ($14) and the unusually earthy, bone dry, 06 Gewurztraminer ($15) which would be perfect with an herbed roast chicken. The on-site ‘La Cachette’ restaurant serves quality French bistro food and feels quite relaxing compared to places in town. There’s a cooking school here too.