WHITES
Wine style: Fresh white
LEIRA 09 Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain 115816 $16.95
Refreshment plus. Lemon/lime flavours combined with spiciness and richness. Very appealing and complete without any oak influence. From Spain’s land of seafood.

Wine style: Fresh/Rich white
VARANDA do CONDE 09 Vinho Verde, Portugal 966663 $13.95
Great blast of lemony freshness. High spirited refresher. Needs hot weather to show its stuff – buy a stash for Summer afternoons or evenings. A classic Vinho Verde produced from Alvarinho (Albarino in Spain) and Trajadura grapes

Wine style: Rich white
SELLA & MOSCA 09 Vermentino di Gallura, ‘Monteoro’, Sardinia, Italy 203422 $16.95
Semi-rich with an appetizing, savoury character. Shades of Sem/Sauv. Low-keyed in a good way. Different. Really good all evening white. Vermentino is just one of Italy’s many wonderful indigenous white grape varieties.

REDS
Wine style: Rustic red
MALIVOIRE 09 Old Vines Foch, VQA Ontario 551036 $19.95
This dark, hard and tart wine is not for everyone. But if you’re up for wine adventure and enjoy the back roads, Mr Foch will take you there. Needs food and should never be poured at a party – unless you’re pulling the plug on the event.

Wine style: Rustic red
VILLA PONCIAGO 09 Beaujolais-Villages, France 207449 $15.95
Fruity meets refreshment, meets rustic. While you get the lighthearted feeling of Beaujolais there is also character to grab on to. Interest to keep you drinking. And happy. One sip and you’ll be thinking French bistro. One glass and you’ll be there. Would be one hell of a great Summer red. Lightly chilled of course.
P.S. Produced by Bouchard Pere et Fils using traditional vinification as opposed to the normal carbonic maceration – hence the rustic edge and extra shot of character.

Wine style: Rustic reds
CH. de FONTENILLE 08 Bordeaux, France 199109 $14.95
CH. COTES de SAINT CLAIR 06 Bordeaux, France 199026 $14.95
It’s becoming rare to find traditional style Bordeaux at a reasonable price but here are two. Hurrah! Expect dusty dryness, herbaceous flavours and lots of vigor. Along with lower than normal alcohol levels and an invitation to gulp. Forget the Chateau designation and think gutsy, earthy, French Country wine. Fontenille is the lighter and the Saint Clair more hearty. Naturally both are food, not party, wines. These would be an eye opener for anyone who has never tasted Merlot/Cabernet in a pure form.

Wine style: rustic red
QUINTA NOVA ‘Pomares’ 08 Douro, Portugal 214007 $16.95
Rustic with a capital R. As with many Douro reds there is a resemblance to the dry, rustic character of Bordeaux. Draws you in – engaging you and your appetite. Wonderful partner for red meats, a hearty appetite and earthy company. Or just a good friend.

Wine style: Rich red
PASQUA 08 Valpolicella Ripasso ‘Black Label’, Italy 203968 $18.95
Warm, toasty Amarone-like feelings for less than $20! Rich, earthy,  late nigh supper wine. Pasqua is one of the great Valpolicella houses but this is the first time we’ve seen their Ripasso.

Wine style: rich red
PERRIN & FILS 08 Vinsobres ‘Les Cornuds’, Rhone, France 566844 $17.95
Perrin’s ‘Cru’ Rhone reds are among the most reliable wines in the world. Rich but never overbearing or overworked. Expect the peppery, spicy character of Rhone-Villages plus a little extra to engage the imagination with some mystery. Enjoy with almost any food. Could be cellared a year or two.

Wine style: rich red
SANTA BARBARA 09 Pinot Noir, California 194332 $19.95
Californian Pinot that’s not too sweet nor pricey. Dry, lively in the Burgundy style. Very refreshing and fun to gulp. If you enjoy vitality in your reds, get this. Yummy, yummy stuff. Lightly chill.

Quintarelli is a wine folk hero and always worth the experience. You are sure to please putting Malivoire’s Rosé on the Thanksgiving table. (And any of my white picks would be popular too.) Chateau St. Jean is a must for Pinot addicts.

ROSE
wine style: dry rosé
MALIVOIRE 09 Rosé ‘Ladybug’, VQA Niagara 559088 $15.95
Delicious fruitiness and some richness. Perfect for Thanksgiving and stock up for Christmas too. Dry Rosé is a great food wine in general.

WHITES
wine style: fresh white
PETER LEHMANN 08 Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia 186361 $14.95
Tart, super refreshing with a tease of citrusy flavours. Unusually understated and low alcohol for an Aussie. Aperitif.

wine style: nice & easy white
SOELLNER ‘Toni’ Grüner Veltliner, Austria 184085 $14.95
Zippy, spicy with a gentle and friendly feeling. Better than a happy pill.

wine style: rich white
TORRES ‘Gran Vina Sol’ 08 Chardonnay, Penedes, Spain 171660 $14.95
Semi-rich Chardonnay with a refreshing tartness. And a solid earthy feeling. Built for food, not glamour. Good value.

REDS
wine style: rustic red
LITTLE YERING 08 Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia 188094 $14.95
A great buy for fans of ‘barnyard’ Pinots. Raunchy and very Burgundian. Needs food. Check out more value wines from this winery on the regular LCBO shelves.

wine style: rich red
CHATEAU ST. JEAN 07 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California 687970 $19.95
Big, lush and seductive. Very Californian. Would impress at a fancy dinner. St. Jean always does well with Pinot.
wine style: rich red
QUINTARELLI 01 Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 986117 $84.95
Vapolicella that thinks it’s Tawny Port. Lush, spicy, earthy and full of mystery. More exciting, and more rare, than most Amarones or any wine at this price. Quintarelli delivers the goods. Treat yourself, or gift a good friend. Sip after dinner.

wine style: rich red
LES COTEAUX 07 ‘Visan’, Cotes du Rhone-Village, France 179226 $13.95
A yummy, spicy, peppery, rich red for those who missed the Rhone special a few weeks ago.
wine style: rich red
CHARLES CIMICKY 06 Shiraz ‘Trumps’, Barossa Valley, Australia 07383 $24.95
Dark, dense and solid. With a plummy, Port-like warmth. I’d pour this after dinner.

wine style: rich red
WYNNS 06 Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, Australia 84996 $24.95
Wynns Coonawarra is an Australian classic. Modeled on Bordeaux, it combines boldness with some seriousness. As formal as it gets down under. Needs beef, of course.

wine style: rich red
MAXWELL 08 Shiraz/Grenache/Viognier ‘Four Roads’, McLaren Valley, Australia 57000 $19.95
Cotes du Rhone in style with extra ripeness and richness. Guaranteed to be a crowd-pleaser with any hearty meal.

Niagara Riesling is back on form with the 08 vintage so it’s time to start buying again. I’m recommending a Malbec for all you fans of big reds.

P.S. DRY ROSÉ
Add to my previous list of recommended Rosés from Vintages May 15th release.
MALIVOIRE 09 Rosé ‘Ladybug’, VQA Niagara 559088 $15.95
More pleasant than refreshing. A little smokiness suggests pairing it with BBQ’d foods.

WHITES

wine style: fresh white
HENRY OF PELHAM 08 Reserve Riesling Off-Dry, VQA Short Hill Bench 557165 $15.95
Crisp with beautiful pure flavours and loaded with refreshment. Dancing lightly – a great tease for the palate. Almost bone dry. Age a year or two, or have with your next patio lunch.

wine style: fresh white
STRATUS 08 Riesling, VQA Niagara 131011 $29.20
Already delivering the ‘petrol’ flavours so loved by some Riesling fans. Exuberant, confident and concentrated, with a perfect balance of zest and fruitiness. The austerity of Dry Riesling with a hit of glamour. Expensive but special.

wine style: fresh white
JEAN-MICHEL SORBE 08 Reuilly, Loire, France 168898 $17.95
DOMAINE LECOMTE 08 Quincy, Loire, France 172528 $18.95
These Loire whites offer something different in Sauvignon Blanc – more grace than force. Refreshment with a gentle purr. And a classy feeling.

REDS
wine style: lively red
DOMAINE DU CARROI 08 Chinon ‘Cuvée des Folies’, Loire, France 170241 $13.95
Very tart, very refreshing and a bit of a challenge. This is Cab Franc in its purest form – invigorating, lighthearted stuff for summer lunches and picnics.

wine style: rich red
FINCA EL ORIGEN 08 Malbec Gran Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina 65425 $19.95
Big, jammy, smooth and rich. Move over Merlot. Crowd-pleaser.

SWEET WHITE
CH. SOUCHERIE 02 Coteaux du Layon, Loire, France 952069 $18.95
Luscious, honeyed wine that feels both sweet and refreshing. Best value sweet wine in the world – a MUST buy. And get lots, because this Chenin Blanc wine ages beautifully – usually up to 30 to 50 years!

SPARKLING
Wine style: Fresh
CODORNIU Pinot Noir Rosé  Brut, Spain 665372 $16.95
Fruity, fun, friendly sparkling. Refreshing, but not austere. Sunday brunch.

WHITES
Wine style: fresh white
VINA VILANO 08 Verdejo, Rueda, Spain 162719 $12.95
The Verdejo grape is Spain’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc. Zesty, herbaceous and perfect for the Summer season. This one is a very good allrounder – for food or just for fun.

Wine style: fresh white
CVNE 08 ‘Monopole’, Rioja, Spain 66951  $13.95
Traditional very dry, tart, low-alcohol white. Good tangy refresher or seafood partner.
P.S. Wouldn’t this be the perfect flagship white for the LCBO ‘monopoly’.

Wine style: nice ‘n easy white
ABAD DOM BUENO 08 ‘Godello’, Bierzo, Spain 154303 $14.95
Freshness combined with fruity flavours and a lighthearted feeling. Good everyday gulper.

wine style: nice ‘n easy white

HUGH HAMILTON 08 Unoaked Chardonnay ‘Jim Jim’, Australia 58537 $15.95
It doesn’t get much more crowdpleasing than this semi-rich, delicious gulper. A teasing mix of zest and slight sweetness.

wine style: rich white
SOUTHBROOK 08 Chardonnay ‘Triomphe’, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake 172338 $21.95
Tart, earthy Chardonnay in the Burgundian style. Feels rich but the alcohol is moderate. A wonderful partner for herb roasted/BBQ white meats. Should be even more characterful in a year or two.

wine style: rich white
MAISON FRANCOIS MARTENOT 07 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy, France 159095 $16.95
Speaking of Burgundy, here’s a classic. Chardonnay the old way – tons of flavour but not heavy on alcohol. More earthy than fruity. A fab food wine. And an amazing value. Get some.

REDS
Wine style: lively red
MALIVOIRE 08 GAMAY, VQA Niagara 591313 $17.95
Juicy, fruity and refreshing. Most local Gamays are earthy but this delivers the fun, gulp me character of Beaujolais. A bit pricy but guaranteed to delight at any Summer event. Lightly chilled of course.

Wine style: rustic red
MALIVOIRE OLD VINES 08 Foch, VQA Ontario 551036 $24.95
Bitter, earthy and challenging. That’s the Foch way. But there’s something exciting about drinking a local red from 34 year old vines. Perhaps with old cheddar, old Lightfoot and late night by the campfire. Expensive but original.

Wine style: rustic red
CHATEAU FONGABAN 05 Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux 165720 $17.95
Classic French bistro red. Rustic and a bit challenging. But wonderful with food because it invigorates and stimulates the palate. Red meats.

Wine style: rustic red
BODEGAS y VINEDOS NEO 07 ‘Vivir,Vivir’, Ribera del Duero, Spain 162693 $12.95
Rustic, gutsy and full of vigour. Heartwarming, old-style wine in the fashion of Tuscan or Abruzzi reds. Not anything like the description in the catalog.

wine style: rich red
LAILEY VINEYARD 07 Merlot, VQA Niagara River 591396 $25.00
The plummy character of Merlot along with some woodsy flavours. Good dinner partner because of the gutsy, refreshing edge. Lailey winery prices their premium wines lower than most.

Wine style: rich red
VINEDOS ARTAZU 08 Garnacha ‘Artazuri’, Navarra, Spain 80812 $13.95
The strawberry-sweet character of Pinot Noir, along with a tangy bite. Charm meets earthiness. A wonderful drink. Lightly chill and let the evening unfold.

Wine style: rich red
GABA do XIL 08 Mencia, Valdeorras, Spain 166199 $15.95
A delicious gulper. Lively, fruity and fun. Shades of Valpolicella. Lighly chill and let the party begin. BBQed burgers would keep the vibe going.

Wine style: rich red
BODEGAS LAN 2004 Rioja Reserva, Spain 42929 $19.95
Classic Rioja Reserva – sweet/spicy flavours combined with a faded, old-world feeling. Light lots of candles.

Wine style: rich red
LATRIA 2006, Montsant, Spain 155424 $18.95
Here’s the bite and vitality often  lacking in Spanish reds. Charming, Merlot-style wine to partner with beef or lamb dishes.

wine style/rich red
DOMAINE de la CROISETTE 07 Côtes du Rhône, France 155465 $13.95
Almost New World in richness but has the vitality of Cotes du Rhone. A wonderful combination of substance, charm and playfulness. And value. Get lots of this for summer BBQs.

WHITES
wine style: fresh white
LA CHABLISIENNE 08 Sauvignon, Saint-Bris, France 641753 $14.95
Seriously dry and sharp Sauvignon. Edgy and super-refreshing – but needs a hot summer day.

wine style: rich white
SOUTHBROOK 07 Chardonnay ‘Triomphe’, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake 117572 $21.95
Solid, manly Chard in the Burgundian style. Deep, earthy flavours, rich and very luxurious. Needs a special event and well seasoned food. Or just sip and enjoy. A wonderful wine experience at a reasonable price. Could be aged a year or three.

wine style: nice & easy white
ALAMOS  08 Torrontes, Argentina 81539 $13.95
Torrentes is South America’s Muscat or Gewuztraminer. Exotic and spicy with a suggestion of sweetness. Fun stuff to sip between meals and at parties. And a really good partner for Sunday eggs.

REDS
wine style: lively red
MALIVOIRE 08 Gamay VQA Niagara 591313 $17.95
A lively, fruity, earthy edition of the Beaujolais grape. Very refreshing, very gulpable and a wonderful local expression. A bit expensive but you’ll feel awfully good drinking this on a picnic this summer.

wine style: rich red
CLOS de LOS SIETE 07, Mendoza, Argentina 622571 $23.95
Argentinean edition of Bordeaux. Solid, manly red for beef or lamb. Best partnered with a formal mood.

wine style: super-rich red
LA RÉSERVE du CROUZAU ST. GERVAIS 07 Cotes du Rhône-Villages, France 142943 $14.95
A blockbuster for sure. Super-rich red for fireside sipping. If you like Amarone try this – at a quarter of the price.

WHITES
Tedeschi 08 Soave ‘Capitel Tenda’, Vento, Italy 730903 $15.95
wine style: fresh white
Soave is usually simple but this one feels elegant and expensive. Upscale house wine with delicate flavours and a crisp, starched-shirt feeling. Italian whites keep impressing.

Taste a World Class Local
One of the wines that Niagara can stand tall with is Dry Riesling. And here is a taste test that I’d love you to take. Go to a major LCBO this Saturday and buy Thirty Bench 08 Riesling which you’ll find in the Vintages section. Chill and have for aperitif, and maybe with oysters, sushi or your favourite seafood appetizers.
The unique statement in good local Dry Riesling is a jolt and a purity that’s similar to Champagne. The violins tuning-up before the concert, your morning ski run on fresh snow, or driving home in your new car. It’s a rush. It’s about ‘the thrill’.
Dry Riesling is the Black Dress of the wine world. So simple, so good at giving nothing away, and such a good entry. Make Thirty Bench your ‘entry wine’ this Saturday.

P.S. Act two would be to get in the car on Sunday and drive to the winery for their single vineyard Dry Rieslings ($30) which you will hide in the basement for a year or two because they’re not ready yet. Thirty Bench have some of the oldest plantings of Riesling in Niagara. See my Niagara Tour for more info on this brilliant winery.

Thirty Bench 08 Riesling, VQA Beamsville Bench 24133 (Vintages)  $18.70

Yalumba ‘Y Series’ 08 Riesling, Australia 625129 $15.95
wine style: fresh white
Lots of citrussy zest and with a shade more flavour than in our locals. Fun to drink anytime. Aussie Riesling is one of the most overlooked wines in the world.

Paul & Mallory Talmard 07 Macon-Uchizy, Burgundy, France 733956 $16.95
wine style: rich white
Great value in semi-rich Chardonnay. Tons of flavour but drier and more food friendly than hot climate editions of this grape.
P. S. Grant Burge 07 Chardonnay ‘Summers’, Australia (57315 $19.95) is named after the winery’s accountant – honouring his 30 years of service. Nice, eh! And how’s the wine? A bit tight and reserved, of course.

REDS
Monte del Frà 08 Bardolino, Veneto, Italy
134544 $13.95
wine style: lively red
Here’s a light, seriously tart red that’s strictly for the fan. Tons of pucker and an honest quality rarely found in today’s wine world. Needs a bowl of pasta – but have a glass while the water is boiling.

Henry of Pelham 07 Gamay, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara 291112 $14.95
wine style: lively red
Pelham hits a mid-point between Beaujolais and Barbera. Fun and gutsy. Great stuff for early in the evening. Lightly chill.

Tenuta di Capraia 06 Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 135277 $19.95
wine style: rustic red
Classic Chianti. Tart, gutsy, earthy and challenging. Invigorating stuff for fall and winter dinners.

Bishop by Ben Glaetzer 07 Shiraz, Barossa Valley. Australia 627869 $29.95
wine style: rich red

Peller Estates 07 Gamay Noir ‘Private Reserve’ $18.95 (also at Vineyards stores)
Delicious fruitiness and freshness. Truly yummy! A friend said it was the most delicious red she ever tasted.

Malivoire Estates 07 Gamay Noir $17.95
Super-concentrated. Have with hearty pasta.

13th Street Winery 07 Gamay $18.00
***Now in their new location! 1776 Fourth Ave, St. Catharines
Rustic, flavourful and unique.

SOUTHBROOK 08 Cabernet Rosé, VQA Niagara on the Lake

P.S. Malivoire’s delicious ‘Ladybug’ Rosé (previous recommendation) will be back in stock on Vintages shelves in a few weeks.

Pinot Grigio is the blue jeans of the wine world – simple but good. A feel good, and comfortable wine.

Background stuff is not something that excites, or strokes the ego of most winemakers but some here in Ontario are willing to oblige. And impress. Pelee Island has been producing very gulpable Pinot Grigio for as long as I remember and the 08 vintage may be their best ever. Fresh, fruity and a best buddy from the first sip. Summer patio stock for sure. Creekside in Niagara produces a drier edition that will hit the spot on hot days. Handy screwcap.

PELEE ISLAND 08 Pinot Grigio, VQA Ontario 326413 $11.95
CREEKSIDE 07 Pinot Grigio, VQA Ontario 83196
$13.95

P.S. In wine country look for Pinot Gris (same as Grigio) at the following wineries: MALIVOIRE 08 Pinot Gris, Niagara ($18.95) is the designer jeans of Gris – crisp for refreshment and  delicious for sipping. Stylish new packaging. Perfect hostess gift. HUFF ESTATE in Prince Edward County have elevated Pinot Grigio ($18.95) to something classy. Bright, jazzy and brimming with confidence. Shades of house wine at a fancy French restaurant. Another good County Gris is The GRANGE ‘Trumpour’s Mill’ 07 ($14.95). Lovely fruity, spicy flavours.

As you might know, my reviews are based on independent tastings done either at my office or at trade events but I also welcome the opportunity to re-taste with a winemaker. It gives me a window on the personality, philosophy, and direction of the winery. What’s in the bottle is all about what’s in the head and heart of the owner.

Martin loves food, loves to travel, and for me, he’s bringing the French wine experience to Niagara. At least a version of it – which is how it should be. He’s committed to organics, to operating with style and to inviting customers to pay premium. The French way! The clincher is that Malivoire makes good wine and there’s value in every bottle. You decide where his wines might fit into your life and budget. Some are at the LCBO but most are available only at the winery.

I highly recommend the Pinot Gris, Ladybug Rosé and Gamay. The arty new labels are a welcome change from local Dullsville.

WHITES
Melon 08 ($9.95/375ml) is lean, tart and super-refreshing. Oyster wine. Ontario’s Muscadet! The half bottle size is perfect for aperitifs. Pinot Gris 08 ($18.95 Vintages) hits the mid-range between refreshment and something special. “Wine for drinking” says Martin. I suggest you get some and start doing it. You’ll have the best house wine on the the block. Chardonnay 06 Estate ($19.95 LCBO Essentials) is pretty, but a showstopper is the Chardonnay 06 ‘Moira Vineyard’ ($36) which is big, luscious and out to seduce. Gewurztraminer 08 ($24.95) is lively, lovely and exotic without being too cute. Something to sip in the shade. Another delightful experience can be had with half bottles of Chardonnay Musque ($11.95 Available at Vintages in 375ml for the June 20 release) which delivers lovely Muscat flavours and zest at a low alcohol level. Perfect for summer brunch – or whenever.

ROSÉ & REDS
Ladybug 08 Rosé ($15.95 available now at Vintages) is the perfect combo of zest and fruitiness. Wine that says ‘Let’s have some FUN’. The Pinot Noir 06 ($25 Available at Vintages in August) is light, tart and challenging. Very Burgundian – wine to partner with confit. My favourite red is the Gamay 07 ($17.95) which is totally unique. Lots of fruit, lots of vigour and an earthy quality that I associate with Italian reds such as Barbera. Rustic wine for hearty pastas, or BBQ’d white meats.

P.S. Gamelle restaurant is operated by Jean Pierre . . . who was making sauces as Martin and I sipped. His restaurant is a tiny, intimate French bistro. Very good, very romantic. Cute window tables on College, and also a backyard patio. www.gamelle.com

A lovely Niagara Pinot Gris, an exuberant Riesling from New Zealand and a knock-out Gewurz from Italy are the pick of the whites. Finally, I recommend you work a little cider refreshment into your summer with Clos Saint-Denis from Quebec.

Cheers!
Billy

P.S. Loved the wine name ‘Hazyblur’, too bad this Aussie red is not worth the $35 price tag.

Style: EVERYDAY NICE WHITE
MALIVOIRE 08 Pinot Gris, VQA Niagara 591305 $18.95
Lighthearted, everyday white. Crisp enough to refresh and pleasant enough to gulp. Stylish new packaging. Perfect hostess gift.

Style: EVERYDAY NICE WHITE
KIM CRAWFORD 05 Riesling ‘The Mistress’, New Zealand 90134 $24.95
Lemon fresh with delicious fruity sweetness. And the explosion of flavour that happens with aged Riesling. Rich and concentrated enough for supper, but also lively enough for the cocktail hour.

Style: RICH WHITE
CANTINA TRAMIN 07 Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige, Italy 117028 $19.95
Super rich Gewurz from the home of that grape. Gorgeous, exotic flavours. A late summer evening sipper. Sexy stuff.

FRESH SPARKLING
HENRY of PELHAM Brut ‘Cuvée Catharine’, VQA Niagara 616441 $29.95
Austere, stony dry in the Champagne style. ALmost no flavour but full of character – a high note that leaves you hanging and wanting more. Outstanding aperitif. Best batch yet of this wine – and possibly the best ever Brut out of Niagara.

REDS
Style: (ALMOST) RICH RED
COOPERS CREEK 07 Syrah, New Zealand 120808 $19.95
Fruity, peppery Syrah in the French style. Bright, lively, fun and very gulpable. Great Summer red. Moderate alcohol level.

Style: RICH RED
LINTON PARK 04 Shiraz, Paarl, South Africa 910844 $15.95
Juicy, peppery, lively and delicious Shiraz for the BBQ season. A little smokiness, a lot of yummy drinkability, and good value. Go get it.

Style: RICH RED
PALLISER 06 Pinot Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand 120766 $28.95
Spicy, sweet, seductive New World-style Pinot. A charmer for sure. Good with everything. Could spice up your life.

Style: RICH RED
CARRICK 06 Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand 919837 $39.95
Serious Pinot in the Burgundian-style. Bone dry, firm – traditional red wine character. Could use another year in the bottle.

Style: RICH RED
RAVENSWOOD 06 Zinfandel ‘Vintners Blend’, California 359257 $17.95
Big, bright, spicy Zin. Ton of flavour but not dense or weighty – could have some Beaujolais genes. Fun stuff for all your summer BBQs. Permanently available at all major LCBOs.

CIDER
Style: REFRESHING CIDER
CLOS SAINT-DENIS 07 Cider, Quebec 89490 $15.95
Dry cider that kicks in at 10 percent alcohol – a sipper. Refreshing appley flavours with the earthy character of Calvedos. The tartness would hit the spot on a hot afternoon. Lovely cheerful label.

the low down The wonderful 07 Vintage is the current hot topic but don’t overlook the wines of 06, which are drinking really well right now. This cool year produced light wines that are truly local in character.

There are 2 district regions – the flat lands of Niagara-on-the-Lake (NOTL) and the more sloped escarpment of Beamsville/Jordan/Vineland. The two regions are separated by the city of St. Catharines. If you’re on a day trip, I suggest you don’t try to visit both regions as this involves highway travel and that ruins the Niagara experience. The QEW is to Niagara what Yonge Street is to Toronto – a central artery best avoided. You need at least two days. Three would be better – especially if you want to take time to smell the roses. I like to do the Niagara-on-the-Lake region first, heading down York Road to Queenston, and then up the beautiful Parkway. A little refreshment on the back patio of the Riverbend Inn, and I’m in the zone.

Don’t spend all your time at wineries. At least take a break for lunch.

When confronted by a tasting bar with dozens of wines, try saying this: “Take me through a day of wine – lunch, aperitif, appetizers, main course, after dinner, nite cap. And how about something novel, an adventure?” This way you’re tasting with context in mind.

Niagara is producing some of the most exciting $20-$30 wines in the world.

Treat yourself. If you’re spending a few days consider staying at Inn on the Twenty in Jordan. Upscale but friendly, relaxed and everything in good taste. Some rooms have a garden, and breakfast in the grand dining room is a fab way to start the day.

On the restaurant scene, Stone Road Grille, located just outside Niagara-on-the-Lake is a rare Ontario edition of the bistro experience. Locally popular, personable owners and staff, bustling, informal atmosphere, generous  food portions, a commitment to local produce and wines, reasonable prices…you must go. (Reservations 905-468-3474)

best new attractions: Southbrook’s stunning modern winery – with a ‘great wall’ and pizza patio. Organized Crime’s sexy tasting room. Olson’s Foods and Bakery shop at Ravine Winery. Chefs Michael and Anna Olson have opened a big food shop/café on a lovely woodsy hillside in the village of St. David’s. It’s part of a complex containing Ravine Winery. Top quality foods and a rustic setting – can’t beat that.

Best winery reception on my last visit was by Lindsay at Thirty Bench. Most intelligent restaurant service was Christina at Hillebrand.

NIAGARA WINERIES – Beamsville Bench

peninsula ridge www.peninsularidge.com Upscale, with a high end restaurant. French winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas is re-learning his craft in Niagara. And doing well, especially with whites. Start with the 07 Viognier ($14), an interesting, herbaceous white – great food partner. Then move on to Sauvignon Blancs – the lively, aperitif-style 07 Wismer ($19) and the richer 06 Fumé Blanc ($27). Enthusiasts may want to check out the amazingly concentrated and rich Reserve 06 Viognier ($39). The everyday 06 Shiraz ($14) and Merlot ($16) at the LCBO are my favourite reds and the 06 Reserve Shiraz ($29) may also turn out to be a star on another level.

angels gate winery www.angelsgatewinery.com Nouveau riche-style house nestled into the hillside. Lunches indoors or on the patio. Pretty place but hard to say if they want to be formal or casual. The wines are good – with a light touch in the making and the pricing. The 07 Riesling ($14) and 07 Gewurztraminer ($16) are delicious, anytime drinks. Gorgeous flavours, off-dry and very gulpable. Age the Riesling if you’re a fan. My fav reds are the rustic, very Italianesque 06 Gamay Noir ($13) – really gets you going – and the light and lively 06 Pinot Noir ($19) which is also rustic and quite earthy. I like the old-fashioned, bistro character in both of these reds.

thirty bench www.thirtybench.com Not great on curb appeal but this little joint gets three awards from me: most improved wines, best tasting- room personnel, and best wine descriptions by winemaker Natalie Reynolds. I also like the option to taste at your own bar table. Improvements here are thanks to new owners, the former bad guys of local wine, Andrés (Baby Duck), now known as Hillebrand and Peller Estates. Dry Riesling is the star, closely followed by Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and the Bordeaux blend in reds. Small Lot ‘Wood Post’ 07 Riesling ($30) is edgy but quite flavourful. The ‘Steel Post’ 07 ($28) is super-austere, and my favourite, the ‘Triangle Vineyard’ 07 ($30) feels like a mix of both – steely, elegant and superb. Thirty Bench has some of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Niagara. Small Lot 07 Gewurztraminer ($30) is a stunner for flavour and richness. A wow for sure – too good to share with food. If it’s richness you want in Chard check out the Small Lot 06 ($30). Winemakers 06 Red ($22) is a lightish, rustic wine for bowls of pasta or BBQ’d burgers. Benchmark 05 Red ($60) is a big, solid guy in need of a steak.

hidden bench www.hiddenbench.com Niagara’s newest aiming-for-the-top winery. Big budget, restored old farmhouse and huge barn. Very good, high-end wines by a French winemaker Jean-Martin Bouchard. The stars are a super-rich, 06 white Meritage called ‘Nuit Blanche’ ($40) and the red equivalent called 05 ‘La Brunante’ ($70). Not a fun sort of place to take your drinking buddies.

organized crime www.organizedcrimewine.com Great name! Go to their website for the story behind it. Looks very plain from the road but there’s a pleasant patio with a great view, and the tiny wine shop is a bit like a French boudoir. Check out the delish, Beaujolais-style 06 Syrah ($22) and an equally charming 06 Gewurz ($22). Next year the winery will be releasing some sensual 07 wines – Sauv Blanc, Cab Franc and Syrah. All crafted by roving winemaker Andrzej Lipinski (also at Foreign Affair). Talk about a flair for picking wineries with interesting names.

fielding estates www.fieldingwines.com Mountain chalet with a great view from the tasting bar. And friendly, welcoming staff. Hard to get a fix on the wine style as they keep changing winemakers. The 07 Riesling ($16) has gorgeous tropical fruit flavours – not typical Niagara – but would be the perfect choice for Thanksgiving or Christmas. Even richer is the 07 Pinot Gris ‘Rock Pile’ ($24). Should be wonderful in a year or two when it firms up. Rich and slightly sweet is also the style of the very seductive 07 Gewuztraminer ($16). Hit of the year is the outstanding 05 Meritage ($35) – a brilliant local edition of the Bordeaux blend.

mountain road wine company www.mountainroadwine.com Am I entering a winery or a scrap yard? (Both appeal to me). It gets better once you see a café table set against a stone wall. Steve Kocsis has some seriously old Chard vines and it shows in his wine. The 05 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($16) is a must for fans of well aged white Burgundy. Rich and a shade raunchy. Great couch sipping wine. Some older vintages of Icewine are still available including the mellow, supper-sweet and bargain-priced 1999 ($29).

de sousa www.desousawines.com A mini Portugese villa and gardens set on top of the escarpment. Surreal! Delish 06 Gewurztraminer and rustic reds that taste best out of a clay cup – which they provide. Portuguese BBQ in the garden on Saturday and Sunday. Was recently sold to the Diamond Estates group so check website for updates.

malivoire www.malivoire.com Beautiful landscaping, striking entrance and serene tasting room. A modern space with traditional values. Estate wines are organic. My fav wine here is the 06 Gamay ($17) – couldn’t be livelier or brighter, so much fun to gulp. There’s nothing like it on the planet, a true local. Malivoire’s 07 ‘Lady Bug’ Rosé ($16) is as good as ever – refreshing and also substantial enough for food – as is the spicy/sweet Alsace-style 07 Pinot Gris ($20). The 06 Chard ($22) and Pinot Noir ($27) are also excellent. I think Malivoire’s line up of wines is exactly right for the region.

tawse winery www.tawsewinery.ca Welcome to my Chateau! Please close the gate! Well-made, high-end wines in keeping with the fancy surroundings. Exotic Chardonnays and a very understated but sexy 06 Pinot Noir ($32) that would not be out of place in a French restaurant. Lean but characterful. Cabernet Franc may be Tawse’s best red as exhibited by the deep, rich 06 ($38) which is modeled on the top wines from the Bordeaux right bank – solid and serious. Speaking of Bordeaux, Tawse 06 Meritage ($48) is concentrated, elegant and very much in the top league. Give it a year or two.

ridgepoint wines www.ridgepointwines.com Take a break and visit this simple spot for a homemade Italian lunch. The reds have a gutsy, rustic character, so they’re perfect with the pasta.

vineland estates www.vineland.com One of Niagara’s showpieces (one of the best views) complete with a high-end restaurant. Can be a little pretentious. Outstanding Mosel-style Rieslings (at LCBOs), stylish 07 Sauvignon Blanc ($18), 07 Pinot Blanc ($16), and a charming 05 Cabernet/Merlot ‘Elevation’ ($25).

megalomaniac – john howard cellars of distinction www.megalogmaniacwine.com John Howard (former owner of Vineland) is developing his winery in the old style – vineyards first, winery and cellar next and a few years down the road, he may open a retail store. When, and if he does, it will be a spectacle – there are no half measures with John. For now, it’s mail order and sales to restaurants. The juicy, wonderfully refreshing 07 Riesling ($18) is already available and next year it will be followed by a wonderful barrel-aged 07 Savignin, and exciting Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot. The arty, creative wine labels are a bonus.

featherstone www.featherstonewinery.ca David Johnson and Louise Engel operate Featherstone out of the back of their charming old terraced farmhouse. Nice place, nice people – no pretense. All the wines have a light touch and suggest drinking with everyday foods. My favourites are the tart and refreshing 06 Gamay ($15), the seriously rustic 07 Baco/Merlot ‘Gemstone’ ($13) and the house-wine-style 07 Un-oaked Chardonnay ($15). The much touted Black Sheep Vineyard 07 Riesling ($19) has the disjointed feeling of many 07 Rieslings but I’m sure it will settle down.

calamus www.calamuswines.com No fancy resto at this old barn. Very backwoods, very rustic, very small, and very good value. The 07 Un-oaked Chardonnay ($13) is a pleasant, everyday sipper, as is the off-dry 07 Calamus White ($12) and the charming 07 Gewurztraminer ($13). The 07 Riesling ($15) is a bit plain at this stage but should improve.

flat rock cellars www.flatrockcellars.com Novel, sky-pod winery set high on the escarpment that has done everything right in its first few years. Nadja’s Vineyard 07 Riesling ($20) is already a Niagara top ten. Edgy, flinty and as bracing as a morning spring stroll in Newfoundland. A wonderful pure expression of the grape and a must have if you’re a dry Riesling masochist. Flat Rock’s regular Riesling ($17) is medium dry, gentle and perfect for Sunday brunch. Seriously Twisted ($23) is a novel white that’s seriously dry and challenging. Rustic is not a word I use to describe white wine but it fits the bill here. Twisted 06 Red ($20) is light and lively in the Gamay style. A delicious fruity, fun summer red – chill lightly and enjoy.

cave spring cellars www.cavespring.ca A model of consistency in wine. The 07 Estate Riesling ($18) has the elegant, cool/sharp starched-shirt character of the previous vintages. A Niagara star. Chardonnay is another strength here and the 06 Estate ($20) hits a good middle ground between glamour and refreshment. The 07 Chardonnay Musqué ($16) is a real charmer – almost too much fun. Estate 06 Sauv Blanc ($20) and the 06 Estate Gewurztraminer ($20) are highly recommended and available at LCBO Vintages. The jewel in Cave’s crown is the 06 Estate Cab Franc ($25). A copybook bistro red – gutsy, solid, refreshing and stimulating. Not fancy or showy – a wine to engage your appetite and imagination. Cave Spring continues to display their innovation and good taste by developing the village of Jordan: drinks, meals and beds at the Inn on the Twenty, and more of the same down the road at the Jordan Tavern.

clos jordanne www.leclosjordanne.com There isn’t a retail outlet yet, but this joint venture between Vincor and the Burgundy house of Boisset is producing stunning Pinots and Chards in the $30- $65 range. I highly recommend the 06 Village Reserve Pinot Noir ($30). The wines are sold directly to restaurants and online. They also appear at LCBO Vintages once a year.

creekside www.creeksidewine.com Quality keeps getting better and at last there’s a new tasting room, along with a huge patio. You’d swear the 07 Pinot Grigio ($15) was from Italy – super refreshing and fun to drink. Best local edition of this grape. The 07 Close Plant Riesling Reserve ($25) is also a classic – the tightness and poise of a ballerina. Another superb white is the 07 Mike Weir Sauv Blanc ($16) – great flavour concentration and a good food wine. Creekside’s multiple blend white – Laura’s Blend 06 ($18) is not unlike an expensive Burgundy – another good food wine. The premium Shirazes, 06 St. David’s Bench ($35) and 06 Broken Press ($45), may turn out to be Niagara’s best ever with this grape. And you must try the dry, tangy, fruity 07 Rosé Pinot Noir ($15). P. S. Creekside’s contract with Mike Weir wines expired at year-end 08, but they will continue to produce and develop the Wayne Gretzky wines, which are much improved.

13th street www.13thstreetwines.com This long established, four-guy, hobby operation will be expanding and moving around the corner to Fourth Avenue sometime in 09. Two new partners have joined the team, more than doubling the winery’s acreage. For now, it’s business as usual at the tiny location on 13th Street, open Fridays and Saturdays only. What makes Thirteenth Street special is the individual statements in the wines such as the 06 Sandstone Gamay ($25). So characterful – shades of something out of Burgundy. Funk 06 Riesling ($24) is a wonderful combo of spicy flavours and nervy energy, and the 05 Reserve Chardonnay ($26) has exciting deep flavours to partner richness and vitality. A bargain for sure. On the lighter side there’s gorgeous-for-gulping 07 Chardonnay Musqué ($18) and a fun, off-dry Cabernet Rosé ($16) that would be the perfect partner for spicy and hot foods (think Indian).

henry of pelham www.henryofpelham.com Hands-on family operation that’s been one of the cornerstones of Niagara wine. Old coaching inn, interesting 1970s Canadian art collection, light foods and local cheeses available on the patio. Very good wine at all price levels and at last, a smarter-looking label. Excellent Riesling, Chardonnay and Baco at LCBOs. At the winery there’s super-refreshing, sparkling ‘Cuvee Catharine’ in white or rosé ($30), a yummy, very Beaujolais-ish 07 Gamay ($15), a gutsy/rich Baco Reserve ($25), and a very Burgundian 06 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($25).

foreign affair www.foreignaffairwinery.com A Canadian spends time in Milan as trade commissioner and falls in love with Amarone. On his return home, he buys a Niagara vineyard and hires Andrzej Lipinski to produce similar style wines – whites as well as reds – made from dried grapes. Len Crispino may give local wine something it can’t produce naturally – super-rich reds. Be prepared for corresponding super-rich prices. I tasted some stunning barrel samples but the reds need a few years in bottle before one can comment on the $100 price tag. Yet another interesting chapter in local wine!

NIAGARA WINERIES – Niagara-on-the-Lake

chateau des charmes www.chateaudescharmes.com Imposing Chateau surrounded by beautifully manicured vineyards. Rose bushes everywhere – very formal, very French. Bossman Paul Bosc is one of the founders of the modern Canadian wine industry, and has always produced a huge range of wines at all price levels. Check out the super-sexy 07 Viognier ($25) and bold flavoured 06 Gewurztraminer ($20) and the classy 06 Estate Riesling ($16). The 06 Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ ($16) has a wild country character similar to bistro wines in France. Great with a paté or cheese platter. The bold 04 Cabernet/Merlot Estate ($20) also feels French. All the reds need a food partner.

ravine vineyard estate winery www.ravinevineyard.com Located in a beautifully restored (and relocated) Colonial House tucked in behind some trees right in the village of St. Davids. A picture-postcard site overlooking vineyards and woods. The Harber family were smart enough to hire one of the country’s most respected wine gurus – Peter Gamble (former head of VQA and consultant to Stratus) – to manage the project. There’s great local expression (low-alcohol, elegance) in the first batch of wines. The 07 Cab Franc Rosé ($17) could hold its own with anything from Provençe, and the 07 Redcoat (Bordeaux blend) ($19) has bright flavours and vigour. Keep the 07 Cab Franc ($34) for a year or two. Ravine winery and the Olson Food Shop are a great new addition to the Niagara scene.

coyote’s run www.coyotesrunwinery.com The place is not much to look at, but owners Jeff and Lauren Aubry and Niagara pro David Sheppard are cranking out good stuff. The 07 Black Paw Chardonnay ($20) offers richness with a refreshing edge, and the 07 Cabernet ($15) is a dead ringer for something found at a French bistro.

the ice house www.theicehouse.ca Longtime Niagara winemaker Jamie Macfarlane and brother Douglas are specializing in Icewine. Located in a lovely old Peach barn, set back from the Parkway. A house white and red is available on their patio.

frogpond farm www.frogpondfarm.ca Heike Koch and Jens Gemmrich operate Ontario’s first organic winery. Farm animals greet you on arrival. Love that. It’s a ‘small holding’, as they say in agri-talk. The 06 Cab Franc ($16) is a lighthearted, everyday or picnic red. My favourite is the 07 Chambourcin ($14), a tart red with the wildness of Sauvignon Blanc – a great rockin’ local statement.

inniskillin www.inniskillin.com The Grand Dame of Niagara wine just got a much needed face lift. The old barn has been restored and refitted with a modern entrance, a brighter interior and a separate Icewine tasting bar. Other new additions are a snack counter under the shade of the great wisteria and a giant piazza for hanging out with a glass or two. Corporate clients have a new lounge with a Riedel tasting room, and moving the parking lot to the front gives the whole place more curb appeal. You’ll find lots of  values here, such as the zesty fresh 07 Pinot Grigio ($13), a decent 06 Chardonnay ($11), the rich, seductive 06 Montague Chard ($18) and austere, classy 06 Montague Riesling ($20). In reds, the Beaujolais-ish 06 Gamay ($12) is juicy, fruity and fun while the 07 Pinot ($15) is an excellent light, rustic, edition of the grape. The 06 Merlot ($15) is mid-weight and offers good value, while the 06 Meritage ($18) has the richness to contend with a steak. Still in the barrel 07 Montague Merlot ($25) should be a class act of flavour and muscle.

lailey www.laileyvineyard.com Smart, modern tasting room in an old barn. Still a bit of a secret despite turning out some excellent wines. The Lailey family were one of the first to plant alongthe Niagara river. The 07 Sauv Blanc ($16) is reserved and earthy as is the bone dry white blend called Counterpoint ($25). The 06 reds also have an earthy, non-flashy character. Pinot 06 ($25) is tangy dry, Merlot 06 ($25) has Bordeaux elegance and the Syrah 06 ($25) delivers the peppery, vigorous Rhône-style edition of this grape. For more heft and concentration look to the 06 Cabernet/Syrah ($25), and for a really serious red buy the 06 Impromptu ($40).

peller estates www.peller.com Chateau grandeur in keeping with historic homes on the same street. Very much the country manor, complete with elegant restaurant overlooking the vineyards. A lovely lunch stop, with a patio too. One of the smartest tasting rooms in Niagara, offering a full range of wines – some overpriced. But check out the stylish 06 ‘Private Reserve’ Pinot Gris ($16.95), and the charming 06 ‘Private Reserve’ Gamay Noir ($18.95). Very Beaujolais. The Sparkling wines flavoured with Icewine – Ice Cuvée ($30) – will have you swooning all the way out to the parking lot.

jackson-triggs www.jacksontriggswwinery.com One of Niagara’s liveliest, jazziest winery experiences. Brilliant modern design that showcases the vineyards – and you gotta love a place that you can enter without having to open a door. Tina Dehondt, and her enthusiastic staff, create a nice buzz – take the tour and see it all. And pick-up some great everyday wines at everyday prices. The 06 Dry Riesling ($11) is an A1 refresher at the best price in town, and Sauvignon Blanc fans will love the 07 at only $13.95. In reds the 06 Shiraz ($16) is one of Niagara’s hits of the year. For a light, summer red try the lively 04 Pinot Noir ($14). In premium wines check-out the 06 Grand Reserve Riesling ($18) and all the wines in the Delaine Vineyard series.

stratus www.stratuswines.com Niagara’s most stylish/arty/serene winery. I love the cool elegance of this place, and Suzanne Janke’s crew gives you a fantastic tasting experience. None of this would matter if the wines didn’t live up to the ambience, but they do. Currently I’m enjoying the whites because they’re ready, whereas the reds seem a bit reserved. Or maybe it’s me. Gewurztraminer has always been good here but the 06 ($32) is a stunner. Lush, rich, exotic, sexy – a white wine to cuddle up with. I’m not a big Icewine fan but if money was no object I’d sip a lot of the 07 Riesling (225ml/$39). Tart never tasted so sweet, and vice versa. The 05 Stratus White ($44) invites the awesome comment. Cliché but true. Feels like Chardonnay Musqué on steroids – delightfully excessive. A wine to propose with, or serve with foie gras, perhaps to mark an anniversary celebration. The 05 Stratus Red ($44) is quite tight and needs ageing. Stratus 06 Wildass Rosé ($19) is well named because it’s really a light red in the gamey style of Niagara Gamay – French bistro food.

hillebrand www.hillebrand.com Another one of the old gang that’s had a make-over. The place now feels like a mini village. It’s fun to explore the new look-out tower, beautiful patio and big stylish restaurant. Frank Lloyd Wright might even be pleased. The tasting room can be very busy but staff are good at hospitality. First time visitors should allow 2 to 3 hours – book a table on the patio, go taste a few wines, stroll around, and then indulge in lunch or dinner – taking advantage of the excellent food and wine pairings offered on the menu. There’s an awful lot of wines – ‘something for everyone’, as they say. The ‘Artist Label’ series line offers good expressions of the grape varieties at reasonable $12-$14 prices. Favourites are the pretty Muscat, the wild Sauvignon Blanc, the richish Pinot Gris. Then move to the Trius line: Trius 05 Cab Franc ($16) has wonderful flavours, vitality and drinkability while the 07 Trius Merlot ($16) combines sweet fruit with a tangy, rustic character. Lots of gusto and very local. The 06 Trius Red ($20) offers more complexity but still keeps Niagara’s hallmark – vitality. Hats off to Aussie winemaker Darryl Brooker for raising the quality while still crafting truly local wines. Side note: Hillebrand’s Jazz & Blues festivals (July & August) are a great way to spend a summer afternoon. Very stylish picnicking and fab musical lineups.

southbrook www.southbrook.com Architect Jack Diamond has created quite the stir in Niagara with his ultra modern design of this winery. The feature being a huge, long, blue/purple coloured wall. Besides getting your attention, the wall acts as the entrance to the glass and steel hospitality centre which in turn frames the vineyards. Step out to the patio and you’ll see another aspect of the aforementioned wall – it houses a James Bond style pizza oven. How cool is that. Southbrook is not only cool to look at, it is also eco-friendly – the vineyards are organic and bio-dynamic. In keeping with all this newness, Southbrook has switched to jazzy, fun new labels with witty winespeak. Progress at last! Winemaking is in the very capable hands of Ann Sperling who previously helped put Malivoire on the map. I suggest you concentrate on the newer wines – Ann’s stunning 07 Sauv Blanc ($19) – very pure with a solid centre for pairing with food. And the 06 Syrah ‘Triomphe’ ($25) with it’s deep, peppery flavours and Pinot-style grace and drinkability. I’d put this forward as a role model for Niagara reds. Ann has stellar 07 reds in barrels that won’t appear for another year. Southbrook is a must visit to see how far the region has come from the days of plastic sheds and cute ornaments. Be sure to try the whole wheat pizzas.

charles baker www.charlesbaker.ca Charles is the sales director at Stratus but he also makes a tiny quantity of his own Riesling each year. The 07 ‘Picone Vineyard’ Vinemount Ridge ($35) cuts right through the Niagara Riesling world, offering a bit of everything. Especially drinkability. Off-dry and better with some ageing.

strewn winery www.strewnwinery.com Nice grounds and a good mix of modern and old touches in this former canning factory. Look for the refreshing and tasty 07 Reisling/Gewurztraminer ($14) and the unusually earthy, bone dry, 06 Gewurztraminer ($15) which would be perfect with an herbed roast chicken. The on-site ‘La Cachette’ restaurant serves quality French bistro food and feels quite relaxing compared to places in town. There’s a cooking school here too.

CHATEAU des CHARMES St. Davids Bench 06 Viognier ($26) – stylish, exotic but in a less is more way. The feeling is spring-like and the flavours are delicate and teasing. Quite hard to describe which is part of its appeal

THIRTY BENCH 07 Riesling Small Lot ‘Triangle Vineyard’ 07 ($30) – steely, elegant and superb. Thirty Bench has some of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Niagara.

MALIVOIRE 06 Gamay ($16.80) – couldn’t be livelier or brighter – so much fun to gulp. There’s nothing like it on the planet. A true local.

TAWSE understated 06 Pinot Noir ($32) would not be out of place in a French restaurant. Lean but characterful.

Another nothing like it in the world wines is  SANDSTONE 06 Gamay ($25). Shades of something from the backroads of Italy.

Ann Sperling’s SOUTHBROOK 06 Syrah, Lot 19  ‘Whimsy’ ($28) has deep, peppery flavours and Pinot-style grace and drinkability. I’d put this forward as a role model for Niagara reds.

HILLEBRAND’S Trius Red line has taken a huge leap forward, not only in quality but in local expression. The Trius 05 Cab Franc ($16) has wonderful flavours, vitality and drinkabilty while the 07 Trius Merlot ($16) combines sweet fruit with a tangy, rustic character. Lots of gusto and very local. The 06 Trius Red ($20) offers more complexity but still keeps Niagara’s hallmark – vitality. Hats off to Aussie winemaker Darryl Brooker for raising the quality and crafting truly local wines.

FIELDING 06 Syrah ($27) is another star of this vintage. French-style wine with emphasis on charm.

The LAILEY family were one of the first to plant along the Niagara river and they produce food friendly wines in the mid weight and price range. Such as the characterful 06 Cabernet/Syrah ($25).