BERINGER 09 Merlot ‘Stone Cellars’, California
462473 $13.95

The Pinot Grigio is fruity, super nice and perfect for everyday sipping. And the Merlot is bright ‘n lively with a little smokiness. A no-brainer with BBQ’d red meats. Both wines are a tad commercial but certainly fine for the price. And fifty cents of every purchase goes to the Toronto Cat Rescue group. End of story.

FLAT ROOF MANOR 10 Pinot Grigio, South Africa 37128 $10.95

FLAT ROOF MANOR 09 Merlot, South Africa 129874 $10.95

I’m always amused when I see people pouring wines that are identical to Merlot, and hearing them say “I really dislike Merlot”.

Beringer Merlot is a doll. Delicious spicy fruitiness and friendliness. Lush, plush without feeling heavy or excessive. Dangerously gulpable. Could be mistaken for Zin. Perfect for holiday entertaining, or any night with your sweetie.

BEST USE: The mood for feel-good wine. Warm hugs.

Beringer 08 Merlot ‘Stone Cellars’, California 462473 $13.95

Lesson #3  Does the situation call for the old wine camp or the new?

The old wine countries create very dry and challenging drinks, while new wine countries offer more friendly, less dry wines. This is a generalization of course but it’s useful to know that the two styles exist – and that choosing the appropriate one will go a long way in determining the success of your event. Or just your own drinking pleasure.

For this lesson you will need to buy and open both red wines below. Experience them side by side (yes, two glasses in front of you) so you can see the different experiences described below. Neither wine is better of course, but there will be a better ‘choice’ once you factor in a situation/mood/food. You could have the foods suggested with the two wines – on the same evening, or spread your lesson over two evenings.

OLD WORLD STYLE Red
CESARI 08 Merlot, Italy 572453 $7.25 page 149
(alternative: Alianca 06 Bairrada Reserve, Portugal 158741 $8.50)
very dry – an edge – earthy – challenging. Very refreshing and good at stimulating the palate – making you hungry, and keeping you hungry through the meal. Its strength is being good at helping you enjoy the meal. And not knocking you out with high alcohol. Could be likened to European movies that give you something to think about.
FOODS: Plain roasted or grilled red meats with fresh herbs. Tomato sauced pasta or pizza.
FYI: The traditional wines of France, Italy, Spain, etc are known as Old World.

NEW WORLD STYLE Red
CONO SUR 08 Shiraz, Chile 64295 $9.95 page 199
(alternative: Finca Flichman 08 Malbec ‘Misteria’, Argentina 28803 $7.80)
Smooth – fruity – spicy sweet – yummy. Instant pleasure and the ‘let’s party’ feeling. An invitation to relax – with food, or without. If there’s food, make sure it has kick-ass flavours. New World reds could be likened to Hollywood movies – lots of glitz and glam.
FOODS: Ribs, steaks or chops with spicy/sweet sauces. Burgers with all the fixins.
FYI: Australian, Chilean and Californian wines are categorized as New World.
P.S. Ontario is in this group technically, but most of our best wines are Old World and cool climate in style.

Traditionally Italian wines are labeled by region but there’s a movement to start using grape names, especially well known ones, when the production is aimed at the expert market. Are you ready to try some Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah – Italian style?

The Abruzzo province is the ‘outlet store’ for Italian red wines. Rock bottom prices for good quality, traditional wines. Now it’s doing the same with international grape varieties.

Arancio’s Syrah strikes a perfect balance between traditional and modern expression. It would work for either camp. Solid, house wine feeling. A bit reserved at first, but the Italian spirit comes out with food.

Casal Thaulero’s wine delivers Merlot plumminess, Cabernet solidness and a rustic Italian feeling. Richness and gusto – the Italian way. For hearty foods and folks. Why pay more?

Best times: fall or winter house wines.

wine style: RICH RED
Arancio 07 Syrah, Sicily 621730 $12.75

wine style: RICH RED
Casal Thaulero 08 Merlot/Cabernet, Abruzzo, Italy 621953 $6.95

I enjoy Bordeaux (most are a blend of Cabernet and Merlot) in the summer for the refreshing nature and moderate alcohol levels. The rustic bite also appeals to me – gives the wine a sense of place. Try the following.

CALVET 06 Medoc, Bordeaux  38208 $13.95
Gutsy, invigorating, traditional French wine. Modest alcohol. An elbows on the table, let’s-get-eating feeling. And bring on the second bottle. Offers a refreshing break from today’s world of super smooth rich reds.

Niagara’s  Daniel Lenko winery has released a special edition ‘Rainbow’ label of his 07 Unoaked Chardonnay $19.95 (called Chardonngay). A great everyday white that spans the refreshment and easy sipping categories. A dollar from each bottle goes to AIDS research.

The Lenko family were one of the first to plant vinifera grapes in Beamsville so all of their wines are full of character. And premium priced. Old Vines 06 Merlot $29.95 is rustic, earthy and very French Bistro. Two stunning whites are the exotic, powerfully flavoured 07 Gewurztraminer  $29.95, and the rich and charming 07 Viognier $39.95.

But not all Merlots are crafted alike. Italian editions are lightish with a gutsy, rustic character. Wines for the supper table as opposed to the couch or party scene.

Local Merlot tends to be in the Italian style. Invigorating wines to get the palate going.
I cannot explain why, but many of our local reds have this gutsy Italian quality. I find it in all the grape varieties, even Pinot. But that’s another story. For now I’d like to recommend some rustic local Merlots that are good partners for hearty pastas, or any red meats.

Peller Estates 07 Cabernet/Merlot is dusty dry and a bit challenging. But note how it invigorates the palate – the original purpose of wine. A great value in local red.

You might expect Colio 07 Merlot ‘Girls Night Out’ to be an easy drinking crowd-pleaser but it’s not. Instead, it’s a hearty wine with the give-me-food quality of Italian reds. Bring on the lasagne, or braised beef or lamb.

Hillebrand 07 ‘Trius’ Merlot has my favourite mix of lively and rustic personalities. Lots of earthy, traditional wine character. Truly local, truly good. A second bottle please.

Peninsula Ridge 07 Merlot is gutsy stuff for sure. Lots of vigour and bite. Very rustic, very real. Could be French.

PELLER 07 Cabernet/Merlot, VQA Niagara 58628 $11.95
COLIO 07 Merlot ‘Girls Night Out’, VQA Ontario 89847 $12.95
HILLEBRAND 07 ‘Trius’ Merlot, VQA Niagara 587907 $14.75
PENINSULA RIDGE 07 Merlot, VQA Niagara 61101 $14.75