Chianti is on a revival, thanks to improved quality and winemakers with a passion for the Tuscan style. Which translates to great vitality. Gabbiano Chianti has a bright fruit character and lively expression and may remind you of Pinot Noir. It’s made from a traditional blend of primarily Sangiovese grapes and is lively, cheerful and charming. Very gulpable for summer parties and everyday meals. Lightly chill.
GABBIANO 08 Chianti, Tuscany, Italy 78006 $13.80
THE LOW DOWN: 6 REALLY GOOD LOCALS, especially the reds. Thirteen Street Gamay and Lailey’s Pinot Noir are too good to be missed. What a joy to experience local wine of this quality level. Other reds worth considering are an authentic Beaujolais, a Tuscan, and a winter warmer from the Port region. A novel Portuguese white completes my recommendations.
The LCBO catalogue has many good things to say about the local 2007 vintage. All true, BUT remember that some wineries make poor wine even in so-called great vintages. NEVER, NEVER ever think that a wine is going to be good just because of a good vintage. The opposite is also true – Niagara’s best winemakers excelled in the so-called poor 2006 vintage. Follow winemakers, not vintages.
WHITES
WILDASS 07 Riesling, VQA Niagara 129700 $17.95
style: fresh white
Mineral freshness and coldness, but fuller than most local Rieslings. Has an herbal quality that reminds me of the best Greek whites, so think Mediterranean – seafood appetizers at sunset. Wildass wines are produced Stratus winery.
CASA de SANTA VITORIA 08 White, Alentejano, Portugal 132431 $13.95
style: richish white
An interesting mix of lemony tartness and richess. Yin Yang for sure. Something different to kick off your evening. Would partner well with white meats.
REDS
13th STREET WINERY 07 Gamay Noir, VQA Niagara 130195 $18.00
style: lively red
A lively, lovely example of Gamay’s bright fruit and exuberance. A joy to drink. Red wine with the refreshing nature of white – for Fall picnics, casual meals, or whenever the mood is light-hearted. I love the pure quality in this wine – local expression at its best.
DOM de SAINT-ENNEMOND ‘Clos Reyssier’ 07 Beaujolais-Villages, France 128694 $14.95
style: rustic red
Beaujolais with tons of lovely berry flavours and a rustic underbelly. Tart and a little challenging. Lots of pucker to get the palate going. Very bistro and not recommended for Shiraz drinkers.
POGGIO MORINO 07 Morellino di Scansano, Tuscany, Italy 123760 $19.95
style: rustic red
Similar to Chianti in its frank fruitiness and vitality. Very refreshing, very natural and very good at stimulating the appetite. Pair with rustic and hearty foods and the mood to be at a Tuscan farmhouse. Morellino is another name for Sangiovese – the Chianti grape.
MALIVOIRE 07 Gamay, VQA Niagara 591313 $17.95
style: rich red
A huge, huge earthy and gutsy Gamay with some of the he-man wildness of Baco. A little over-the-top and challenging, but would be heavenly on a chilly fall evening with braised shanks. And a log fire.
LAILEY 07 Pinot Noir, VQA Niagara River 591404 $24.95
style: rich red
Niagara does Pinot in the Burgundian style. I love how it captures the earthy, mysterious character of traditional red wines. More of a product of the soil than fancy barrels and tricks in the cellar. One of my favourite ever local Pinots. And the price is reasonable. Thanks Lailey! Buy lots and enjoy with simply grilled meats – and friends who share a fondness for traditional-style red wines.
LE CLOS JORDANNE ‘Talon Ridge’ 07 Pinot Noir, VQA Niagara 143545 $37.00
style: rich red
A fuller, richer, more lush experience than the Lailey above. Very seductive and impressive – the Clos Jordanne style. Another excellent local Pinot that would be a much appreciated gift.
THIRTY BENCH 07 Red, VQA Beamsville Bench 53389 $24.20
style: rich red
A big, hefty red. Rock solid. Thirty Bench’s edition of red Bordeaux (Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot) that will delight fans of blockbuster reds. Age a year or two if you enjoy this wine style.
QUINTA de VENTOZELO 05 Touriga Nacional, Douro, Portugal 657452 $19.95
style: rich red
Port-like richness and flavours. (Same grape, same region.) But crafted dry. Wine for the cheese course or for fireside sipping. Awfully good stuff for the winter season.
Tuscan reds have become richer in keeping with the worldwide trend for this style. But there are still a few traditionalists about crafting light, lively wines that are WONDERFUL partners for summer meals – BBQ’d burgers or chicken thighs…or a platter of salamis, bread and cheese. Try Rocca delle Macie 07 Chianti and see how the refreshing and fun nature of this wine suits the season. And you’ll get a little of Tuscany too! Lightly chill and have a second bottle ready.
Reduced to $12.45 till mid September.
Rocca delle Macie 07 Chianti, Tuscany, Italy
269589 $13.95 ($12.45 till mid September)
Wine style: lively red
Italy is the most diverse wine country in the world. Regions, parishes and individuals express themselves very differently. It’s the Italian way. However, there is one thing that unites most Italian winemakers today and that is a commitment to quality. Reds that used to be thin and harsh are now more generous and flavourful. Some producers have pushed their wines too far in an attempt to copy the richness found in Aussie or Chilean reds, but fortunately most uphold traditional Italian moderation and sense of proportion. And produce wines that don’t try to outshine food and conversation.
The wines I’m recommending belong to this moderate category. And show a huge improvement over how they were a decade ago. Masi Valpolicella is a younger cousin of the winery’s famous Campofiorin. Wine with exactly the right proportions for everyday meals and fun times. Lively with a delicious fruitiness and life is good feeling. A bright, modern wine as suggested by the smart-looking package. Let the party begin.
The hallmark of Tuscan reds is a tangy dryness. They make you hungry and they flatter the food once it arrives. Frescobaldi’s Remole has always done this for me but the 07 vintage goes a step further. It has gorgeous flavour and even a little charm. Tuscany meets Beaujolais. Pizza or pasta wine that’s also playful enough to get invited to a party.
Cesari’s Merlot has been the best value red in town for several years now and the newly arrived 07 vintage could be the best yet. It’s certainly the most crowdpleasing. Honest, frank, rustic character is delivered with a little comfort. A rock solid, everyday red for everyday foods and moods. Get a case and treat the neighbours.
MASI 07 VALPOLICELLA ‘Bonacosta’, Veneto, Italy 285585 $14.25
FRESCOBALDI 07 TOSCANA ‘Remole’, Tuscany, Italy 105429 $12.40
CESARI 07 Merlot, Veneto, Italy 572453 $7.05
follow: RSSSite protected by VNetPublishing.Com Web Security Tools