Winemakers all over the world are tired of producing Chard & Co and are excited by the potential of grapes that have been ignored and almost forgotten. All it takes now is for us to get involved by purchasing and drinking. This Vintages release offers six really good examples of this third style, from Italy, France, Austria, Greece and Argentina. I’ve included a sparkling as it fits the fresh, frank style of the other wines. All best suited to summer, so stock up.

In reds I’m also hoping for a bit of swing back to something lighter and less showy – bistro wines. My Bordeaux and Rhone picks are very bistro, as is the new-style Aussie Shiraz. There’s a coffee theme to my final two reds. And I don’t mean Tim’s.

White wines ‘THIRD STYLE’ – light and refreshing
1. BORGO CONVENTI 10 Pinot Grigio, Isonzo del Friuli, Italy 13276 $16.95
Here’s a fantastic white for the purist. Very dry with wonderful mineral freshness – in the Chablis-style. The lowly Pinot Grigio can be upscale if the producer tries hard enough. Classy aperitif.

2. CAVE de VIRE 09 Vire-Clesse, Burgundy, France 243782 $16.95
Vire is a parish in the Macon region – the home of non-oaked (pure) Chardonnay. This one is very dry, down-to-earth, but somehow also feels classy. It’s the French thing! Aperitif or seafood appetizer.

3. TSELEPOS 10 Moschofilero, Mantinia, Greece 724583 $16.95
I love the honest, unadorned feeling here – so simple and so good. A must-by for warm summer evenings. Super dry and refreshing with the appetizing savoury flavours typical of Greek whites. Has the seaside-salty-spray-feeling that’s so good in a summer wine. Aperitif or seafood.

4. WEINGUT ZAHEL 10 Gruner Veltliner, Austria 181594 $15.95 (from a previous release)
Gruner has the purity and lightness of a dry Riesling along with a citrussy zing. Spring day feeling – as suggested by the lime green label. Wonderful refresher or patio lunch wine.

5. GRAN LURTON 10 ‘Corte Friulano’, Mendoza, Argentina 66829 $19.95
Francois Lurton makes wine all over the world – sometimes it has French flair, and sometimes it’s commercially crowdpleasing. This is one of his most brilliant creations – a blend of four grapes crafted in the very pure style of Italian whites from the Friuli region (see wine #1). Super fresh and very dry with a slight earthiness. But the overall feeling is of elegance and poise. Very different from the bold flavoured whites we’ve become used to over the past few decades. What a great ambassador for blended whites. And a possible role model for our local white blends. And a kick in the pants for the theory that hot climates cannot produce cool-feeling whites. One sip and you’re not going to let the bottle get away. Treat yourself and good friends over the summer season. Great just to sip, or to start an alfresco meal.

6. CODORNIU Brut Cava ‘Seleccion Raventos’, Spain 521773 $14.95
This is not news to those who know, but Codorniu ‘Raventos’ is probably the best budget sparkling wine on the planet. Very dry, yeasty and loaded with Champagne-like teases. All of this at an everyday price.

OTHER WHITES
House Chardonnay
BLACKSTONE 10 Chardonnay, Monterey, California 994509 $15.95
Blackstone always wins me over with the frank feeling and value of their wines. This is good, mid-range, house Chardonnay – with great drinkability.

Something different
SMALL GULLY 08 Viognier ‘The Formula – Helen’s Harmony’, Barossa, Australia 269332 $19.95
Viognier is often peachy pretty but this is more punky. A livewire with appetizing savours flavours and lots of electricity. Sure there’s something exotic too but mainly what you get is a good-time-summer-evening feeling. Would be sensational with BBQ’d chicken smothered in fresh herbs.

Good local
KACABA 09 Chardonnay ‘Barrel Fermented’, VQA Niagara 262436 $22.95
Big Chard flavours with a suggestion of richness. But it’s also wild and zingy. Refreshing aperitif, and nourishing food wine.

Traditional Chardonnay
Mac MURRAY RANCH 09 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California 262063 $21.95
Huge flavours and richness. Lush and very Californian. For the fan of big. Almost a dessert!

REDS
Bistro Red
CH. HAUT-CANTELOUP, Blaye, Cotes de Bordeaux, France 264747 $13.95
Earthy, refreshing and honest. A merlot/Cab with some punk – the original form. Appetizing, refreshing and not too alcoholic. Wine for everyday.

Bistro plus
LAVAU 09 Vacqueyras, Rhone, France 104927 $18.95
Regular readers will know of my fondness for Southern Rhone reds and lately I’ve been recommending lots in the rich, warmhearted style. This guy is lighter, more rustic, refreshing – not unlike a Burgundy (Pinot Noir). Rhone often has this feature. Wonderfully suggestive, very bistro – wine to impress the food as well as the company. Best with simply grilled meats.

Bistro
PLUNKETT–FOWLES 08 Shiraz ‘Stone Dwellers’, Victoria, Australia 265967 $19.95
Here’s something different in Aussie Shiraz – wine with an edge, and an earthiness. There is a suggestion of Shiraz’s home in the Rhone – a perfect Aussie/French combo experience. Part of the new Aussie styling – crafting wines that are as good with food as impressing people.

Rich, crowd-pleaser
MONTES 09 Carmenere, ‘Limited Selection’, Chile 256685 $14.95
Montes keeps scoring with wines at this price. This is over-the-top with crowdpleasing spicy flavours and smoothness. Red wine for the Grande, Mocca Latte drinker.

Novel Red
BARISTA 10 Pinotage, South Africa 172585 $15.95
Pinotage is a South African speciality that could be likened to our Baco Noir. Tart, wild and back-woodsy. An interesting detour when you’re tired of nice. This one has some ‘coffee shop’ flavours and warmth – hence the name. Best with braised or BBQed meats – winter or summer.

SWEET
G. MARQUIS 09 Vidal Icewine, ‘Silver Line’ VQA Niagara 262477 200ml/$27.95
From Magnotta winery who always deliver the most concentrated icewines, at the most reasonable price.

ROSEWOOD 09 Pinot Noir, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara (Vintages) 112177 $20.00 (NOW on sale! $18.00)

http://www.rosewoodwine.com

WHITE
Wine-style: Fresh White (Classic Riesling)
HENRY of PELHAM 09 Reserve Off-Dry Riesling, VQA Short Hills Bench  557165 $15.95
Precision, poise and performance. A classic Riesling with the sleek, stylish character of a fast German car. Exciting yin yang of tartness and teasing peachy fruitiness. Quite dry and refreshing right now. Riesling fans should cellars a stash for summer patio lunches over the next five years.

REDS
Wine Style: Lively/Rustic/Rich Red
ALFREDO ROCA 10, Pinot Noir, Mendoza, Argentina 32979 $12.95
Pinot purists stay away. Those looking for something new in lightish reds should get on this right away. I’m calling it my Argentinian Beaujolais. So deliciously gulpable – my bottle was empty in no time. A fun red that I’m stocking-up on for summer events. Best lightly chilled.
Wine Style: Rich Red (Classic Modern Spanish)
BODEGAS CASTANO 06 Reserva ‘Pozuelo’, Yecla, Spain 35485 $14.95
Castano is located in the blazing heat of the south of Spain but this winery manages to produce rich red wines with wonderful fresh flavours and vitality. Not to mention nourishment, mystery and drinkability. Tasty stuff that feels very real. I’ll be drinking lots of this. Yes, it’s from the same winery as La Casona, the $8  bargain at regular LCBOs.

Wine Style: Rich Red (Classic Traditional Spanish)
BODEGAS IGNACIO MARIN 08 Garnacha ‘Old Vine’, Carinena, Spain  214205 $15.95
Crafted in the style of traditional Riojas – lots of vanilla sweetness and old world flavours. Wine that suggests dinner at your favourite Ye Old Mill Restaurant. Not for everyone, but worth exploring.

Wine Style: Rich Red (Classic South of France)
CH. de TREVIAC 08 Corbieres, France  670505 $15.95
France does blockbuster. Really well too. A solid, rich red that’s very together and satisfying. A few years of bottle has brought out some soul. Most New World wineries would charge a lot more for a show this big and interesting. I’ve recommended at least two previous vintages of Ch. Treviac.
Wine Style: Rich Red (Classic Chianti Riserva)
CASA TRIACCA 08 Chianti Classico Riserva ‘La Madonnina’, Tuscany, Italy  191361 $24.95
The woodsy, haunting, rustic feeling of good Chianti Riserva. Satisfying without a trace of excess or adornment. Fit for a King but more of a Country Squire because of the woodsy quality. Best with grilled or roasted meats.

 
P.S. PETALOS 09 Descendientes de L. Palacios, Biero, Spain 675207 $22.95
This red wine (and winemaker) gets rave reviews but I fail to see anything more than density and heft. Sure there’s impact but where’s the drinkability! Maybe in 2–3 years when the wine is less solemn and serious!

Congrats to Ravine for developing a truly local, and stylish wine experience. While it’s not everyday priced I think you’ll see the value in the experience.

RAVINE 10 ‘Sand & Gravel’ York Road, VQA Niagara 260414  $16.95

I’ve just had an amazing local red. Not anything that would score big with Mr Parker and followers, nor impress on steak night, nor make your weekend party friends giggle with pleasure. This was a wine of the earth, a soulful drink, an honest drink with the rustic qualities found in old-fashioned Bordeaux reds.

So often local (and elsewhere) winemakers feel the need to soften/sweeten/tame the wild character in Cabernet Franc, but not Charmes. This is the real thing. A wonderful true expression that’s at peak right now. Best with any simply roasted/grilled meat.

Unfortunately there isn’t much remaining of this Vintages release. Do the store search by clicking on the wine name at http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/searchResults.do?ITEM_NAME=453415&ITEM_NUMBER=453415&language=EN

CHATEAU DES CHARMES 07 Cabernet Franc ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’, VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara
453415 $25.95

BEST LOCAL WINERY – The People’s Award

One of the major Canadian magazines has given their Winery of the Year award to Tawse. For the second year in a row. I’m in total agreement because this Beamsville winery has produced a huge array of stunning wines over the past few years. If you buy wines in the $20-$45 range Tawse delivers the goods as well, if not better, than anyone on the planet. Be sure to include it on your next Niagara trip.

Now, for my People’s Winery of the Year award. The winery that delivers the most excitement at everyday prices, and which scores for availability at the LCBO is Pelee Island. Pelee is a large scale producer with lots of experience in blending fruit from all over Ontario and offering good tasting, low priced wines. If you get out of urban centres and travel around the province you’ll see how Pelee has probably converted more people to ‘local’ than any other winery.

Over the past few years, however, Pelee has upped-the-ante with their ‘Lighthouse’ and ‘Alvar’ lines which offer fabulous varietal character plus. Amazing wines for $12–$15. To top it off Pelee’s ‘Secco’ is a great Ontario edition of Prosecco. It’s about time that GM/original winemaker, Walter Schmoranz, got some recognition for decades of great work in our local industry. Go Pelee!

Mommessin is loaded with good cheer and happy times feelings. Jadot’s wine also suggests fun times but it could partner light meals – perfect for boxing day leftovers. Angels Gate produces an excellent local edition of Gamay (the Beaujolais grape).  Lightly chill and serve at the early stages of your events. Because many people have a poor perception of Beaujolais, it’s best NOT to announce that you’re pouring it. You will get compliments, I assure you.

MOMMESSIN 10 BEAUJOLAIS, France 313734 $10.95
LOUIS JADOT 10 Beaujolais-Villages, France 365924 $15.95 (Vintages Essentials)
ANGLES GATE 09 Gamay, VQA Niagara 107714 $12.95

It’s impossible not to feel good drinking Charmes Riesling. Off-dry with delicious, joyful summer day feelings. Perfect for creating a happy mood. The spicy flavours would partner well with turkey or ham.

As holiday meals are usually earlier in the evening, it’s best to go with light reds such as Pinot. Even lightly chilled. Charmes wine is a good mix of fruity, earthy and refreshing. With the gulpability of something you’d find at a French bistro.

A few years of bottle age has added an extra dimension of flavour, character and charm to these wines. I’ll be shocked if you’re not absolutely delighted.

CHATEAU DES CHARMES 08 Riesling ‘Old Vines’, VQA Niagara on the Lake 277228 (Vintages) $16.95

CHATEAU DES CHARMES 08 Pinot Noir, VQA Niagara on the Lake 195511 $14.55

My picks include some fabulous Holiday wines and a few others for Winter drinking.

Enjoy.

WHITES
Crowd-pleasing bubbly
BELCANTO DI BELLUSSI N/V Prosecco, Veneto, Italy
53215 $17.95
Delicious fruitiness and drinkability. Off-dry and perfect for any Holiday moment.

Oysters or any seafood
GROTTA DEL SOLE 09 Falanghina, Campania, Italy
247940 $15.95
Crisp, pure and refreshing. Not unlike a $25 Chablis. Perfect seafood partner. Falanghina is an underrated native Italian white grape.

Gorgeous sipper
KURT DARTING 08 Riesling Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany
963207 $19.95
Honeyed flavours combined with lemony freshness. Super light with a suggestion of sweetness. Semi sweet but also feels dry. Exotic/sexy but also pure as snow. Welcome to the German Spatlese  (late harvest) experience. Gorgeous anytime sipper. Or partner for the big bird.

REDS
Light red for cold nights
REICHSRAT VON BUHL 08 Pinot Noir, Pfalz, Germany
249649 $19.95
Light Pinot with mature flavours. Woodsy and cuddly. Yes, Germany does Pinot.

Raunchy
ERRAZURIZ 10 Pinot Noir ‘Wild Ferment’, Chile
510396 $19.95
Gamey, raunchy Pinot – strictly for the fan. Drier and more real than most New World Pinots. Needs well seasoned meats, and company. Fermented with natural yeasts – the old fashioned way.

Almost rich red – for almost any situation.
LA FERME DU MONT 09 Cotes du Rhone ‘Le Ponnant’ France
171371 $17.95
Tasty fruit/spice/earthy flavours. And great vitality. Lovely  combination of wine character and sense of fun. Guaranteed to please.

Bistro-style
DUCA DI SALAPARUTA 08 Nero d’Avola, ‘Passo delle Mule’, Sicily
250928 $19.95
If the French grew Nero d’Avola it would be poured at every Bistro in that country. A gutsy red with bright flavours and a drink-lots feeling. Works with just about any food.

Winter nourishment
FATTORIA VALIANO 06 Chianti Classico ‘Poggio Teo’ Tuscany, Italy
250563 $17.95
Mature Chianti with a warmhearted, fireside feeling. Soulful too. Best with grilled meats. Sure to appeal to your Italian spirit.

Really wild
FLAGSTONE 09 Pinotage ‘Writer’s Block’, South Africa
243337 $19.95
Think Baco on steroids. Red wine with intense gamey, backwoods character. Wild and really good at it. A novel experience for a winter night.

Formal local
STRATUS 07 Merlot, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake
131003 $42.20
Not the usual flamboyant Merlot, but one crafted the very dry, Bordeaux style. Concentrated and earthy with a traditional/formal dinner party feeling. Deep at first, becoming delicious later. Needs big glassware and a primo roast of beef or lamb. Impressive gift.

SWEET
Exotic Aussie Port
GRANT BURGE 10-Year-Old Tawny, Barossa, Australia
58388 $30.95
Feels warm, exotic and powerful. Somewhere between Tawny Port and a liqueur. Lots of Pow! Sip after dinner, or with all the Christmas candy!

Great mixer
ST-GERMAIN Elderflower Liqueur ‘Delice de Sureau’, France
180695 $49.95
The delicate and hard-to-describe flavours in this liqueur put a lovely spin on just about any cocktail. Shake it up with vodka/gin or add to sparkling wine. Stylish Art Nouveau bottle.

SPARKLING

DOMAINE DE VAUGONDY Vouvray Brut, Loire, France
154567 $17.95
A perfect blend of tartness and delicate flavours. Elegant, marble hall feeling. Fantastic aperitif, or as a base for ‘Champagne’ cocktails. Get a case for the holidays.

13th STREET ‘Cuvee 13’ Brut Rosé, VQA Ontario
147504 $24.95
Super refreshing. And good looking. Dreaming of a pink Christmas.

WHITES

Wine Style: FRESH WHITE
DOMAINE BERNARD 08 Chablis ‘Cote de Lechet’, 1er cru, France
17541 $34.95
Austere with mineral freshness and just a trace of flavour. Classic Chablis – which is a rare find. A set-up wine to tease the palate or complement anything out of the ocean. Oysters for sure.

Wine Style: RICH WHITE
CLOSSON CHASE 08 Beamsville Bench Chardonnay. Ontario
230904 $39.95
Blockbuster white. Tons of flavour and richness with the warm, toasty flavours of mature Chardonnay. Very Burgundian, very exotic, and a very wonderful local.

Wine Style: RICH WHITE
KUHLMANN-PLATZ 08 Pinot Gris, Alsace
224204 $17.95
Richness combined with a little spicy/sweetness. Pinot Gris is Alsace’s answer to Chard. Would be a perfect partner for the big bird and all the trimmings. And all the family.

Wine Style: RICH WHITE
DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER 07 Riesling, Kessler, Alsace, France
61176 $25.95
A must for the Riesling fan. Bone dry and just starting to express itself with intriguing, hard-to–pin-down flavours. Love that. Elegant and a wonderful tease.

REDS

Wine Style: RUSTIC RED
CHATEAU FONGABAN 06 Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France
138735 $15.95
Rustic, invigorating and down to earth. Classic bistro red. Best with beef or lamb.

Wine Style: RICH RED
ROCCA DELLE MACIE 06 Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy
930966 $21.95
I don’t usually like mature Chianti but who could resist the woodsy, fall-day flavours, and charm in this wine. Enjoy with oven toasted anything, and thoughts of Tuscany.

Wine Style: RICH RED
DELAS 09 Cotes du Rhone ‘Saint-Esprit’, France
729962 $14.95
Fruity, spicy flavours combined with a tangy edge and some richness. The Rhone experience. Both heartwarming and refreshing. Good with everything.

Wine Style: RICH RED
GUIGAL 07 Gigondas, Rhone, France
331900 $29.95
Something special and seductive at a good price. Both sexy and solid, and ready to go. Guigal is one of the top producers in the Rhone and Gigondas outperforms most super deluxe wines.

Wine Style: RICH RED
FRAMINGHAM 09 Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
699322 $24.95
Here’s a lush, exotic edition of Pinot. A charmer. Pamper yourself with a favourite dish, and partner.

Wine Style: RICH RED
SOKOL BLOSSER 08 Pinot Noir, Oregon
748434 $34.95
The Pinot purist will love this combination of delicious berry/spicy and ‘farmyard’ flavours. A bigger than usual presence for Pinot. Would be fab with duck breast!

Wine Style: RICH RED
STRATUS 08 Red, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake
131037 $44.20
A multi grape blend in the sturdy, earthy Stratus style. Tons of personality and a refreshing change from the world of sameness in deluxe reds. Great local statement.

Wine Style: RICH RED
MASI ‘SEREGO ALIGHIERI’ 05 Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy
462812 $69.95
Expensive but really good Amarone. Light on the usual dried fruit flavours but big on the mid palate stuff that makes expensive wines  worthwhile. Sip with after dinner chat. From the estate of Dante – impressive gift choice.

SWEET

LENZ MOSER 08 Trockenbeerenauslese, Burgenland, Austria
729657 375ml/$19.95
Amazing concentration of sweet/spicy flavours in a low alcohol wine. Deep and delicious. The sweet wine buy of the decade.

CROFT Pink Port, Portugal
140871 $19.95
Lighthearted Port for the non Port drinker. And good at it.  Lightly chilled this is a lovely drink for aperitif, party-time, or whenever.

FRANCE in PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

Closson Chase has just released two very stylish wines. An elegant, mid-range Chardonnay with the refreshing feeling of Chablis. Smart aperitif/first course wine. A great ambassador for the County.

The Pinot Noir is also very French. Bone dry, lightish and tart with wonderful earthy realness. A Fall day feeling. Age a year.

I really like the clear focus at Closson Chase – high quality Chard and Pinot Noir. There is a strong connection between the sensibility displayed at the winery – the arty/rustic barn and the garden – and what’s in the bottle. Understated but self assured. Makes you feel like you’re in the French Countryside.

CLOSSON CHASE ‘CCV’ 09 CHARDONNAY, VQA County $24.95

CLOSSON CHASE ‘CCV’ 09 PINOT NOIR, VQA COUNTY $39.95

WHITE
JACKSON-TRIGGS 09 ‘SILVER SERIES’ GEWURZTRAMINER, VQA Niagara 247767 $19.95
Jackson-Triggs attempt at a dry, rich style Gewurz is a huge success. It’s an exciting wine because the three elements – flavour, richness and freshness are all playing equally well. Working the tune like a jazz trio. Impossible to drink this wine and not feel happy.

RED
HENRY OF PELHAM 09 BACO NOIR RESERVE, VQA Ontario 461699 $24.95 (see yesterday’s post)

HENRY OF PELHAM 09 FAMILY TREE RED, VQA Niagara 247882 $18.95
Medium-bodied, multi-grape blend with bright flavours and lots of vitality. Cheerful and very gulpable. Very bistro. Nice peppery flavours from the Syrah in the blend.

ROSEWOOD 09 PINOT NOIR, VQA Twenty Mile Bench 112177 $20
Delish with very bright, natural flavours. Drinking beautifully now. A rare good value in local Pinot. Get lots.

LAILEY 09 PINOT NOIR, VQA Niagara 591404 $25
I always enjoy the frank, ‘drink me’ quality of Lailey Pinot. And they don’t over charge.

LAMMERSHOEK 06 ROULETTE, Swartland, South Africa 58164 $23.95
Super-rich, warming lush version of Chateauneuf du Pape. Will be a wonderful winter night companion.

Henry’s Reserve Baco

P.S. I recently had the opportunity to taste ten old vintages of Henry’s Reserve Baco and if you have a cellar I recommend you start including it. Get this 09 and follow with the wonderful 10 which will be at the winery next year. Two or three years aging is sufficient.

HENRY OF PELHAM 09 BACO NOIR RESERVE, VQA Ontario 461699 $24.95
***available for the September 3rd Vintages release. My few other recommendations from this release will be posted tomorrow.

Pinot is always a bit premium priced but fans are usually willing to pay up. Especially if the quality is there. Such as with Henry’s 07 just released at LCBO Vintages.

The style is very local which means it’s similar to Burgundy. Down and earthy, farmyardy and even dirty. All the stuff that serious Pinot fans love and crave. There’s lots of pleasant stuff in the wine too so it’s okay to pour for non-pinot people. At peak now so drink this Fall or Winter. Or it will really get nasty.

HENRY OF PELHAM 07 PINOT NOIR RESERVE VQA NIAGARA 268392 $24.95

In its early years the winery was criticized for high prices but all the wines I tasted one afternoon offered value for money.

Fans of white Burgundy would love the earthy character of 07 ‘Bella’ Chardonnay $28. Mature, lush and lovely. If you think that the 08 Rosé tastes like a light Pinot, you’re correct. That’s what it is – a great value at $18. Barrel Select 08 Pinot is fresh, fruity and a lovely summer red at $28. Top Dog 08 Pinot at $36 is more classic with a little ‘farmyard’. Okay, now for the expensive stuff, ‘Otto’ 08 Pinot Noir is $50.

It could be the most concentrated and profound Pinot in Canada – and would certainly be twice the price if it hailed from Burgundy. www.longdog.ca

Long Dog is located in the south of the County and I highly recommend you combine it with a visit to the Waupoos region – home of County Cider (great lake view), Fifth Town Cheese (amazing cheese and architecture), Waupoos Winery (lakeside restaurant), and the world’s best display of hollyhocks. Afterwards take Bongards Crossroad up to #7 and head to Lake on the Mountain restaurant/patio for a very French countryside experience. Complete your day with live music at the Acoustic Grill in Picton. www.theacousticgrill.com

THE LOW DOWN: Vintages serves two purposes: the supply of high-priced wines for those that need them, and the supply of everyday-priced wines in styles not available at regular LCBOs. My picks are mainly from the later category – wines for the enthusiast seeking adventure in their drinking.

South Africa is this week’s star in Rosé, especially the sparkling. Check out Ch. Ferran and I’m sure agree that good white Bordeaux is due a come-back. John Howard has the most impressive Niagara cellar at Megalomaniac and his semi-dry Riesling is no slouch either.

Fans of Cabernet Franc will want to explore the original from Chinon and if it’s  a hit of Tuscany you’re after look for Castellani Chianti. Stratus is also offering rustic in the form of an earthy Rosé. Barbaresco is usually a bit pricy but not so the seductive Santa Vittoria, and my blockbusters from Argentina and France also offer great value.

I did find one wine – Groth Chardannay, in the catalogue’s high priced and high score feature that delivers some magic.

Slainté.

Billy

ROSÉ
wine style: sparkling dry Rosé
GRAHAM BECK Brut Rosé, South Africa 175588 $18.95
Best value sparkling Rosé on the planet. Classic Champagne styling and elegance. A no-brainer to kick off summer events. Get a case.

wine style: dry Rosé
BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF 2010 Rosé ‘The Wolftrap’, South Africa 169409 $12.95
Dry Rosé with a little smokiness – the perfect BBQ partner. Light the charcoal!

WHITES
wine style: semi-dry white
MEGALOMANIAC 09 Riesling ‘Narcissist’, Edra’s Vineyard, VQA Niagara 67587 $17.95
Semi-dry, low-alcohol summer sipper. Wonderful mineral freshness. Alfresco lunch or any lazy times.

wine style: fresh white
CHATEAU FERRAN 07, Bordeaux, France 100867 $21.00
Novel and challenging. Fans of the gutsy/earthy/savoury character of Aussie Sem/Sauv should check out this original model. Wonderful aperitif and seafood appetizer partner. Not for fans of ‘pretty’.

wine style: nice & easy white
SUMMERHOUSE 09 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 218305 $19.95
Yes, it’s possible to craft SB in a yummy, friendly style – with a lazy, summer day feeling. Warm and sunny, but with gentle breezes. Five o’clock on the deck would be a perfect fit. Love the poetic back label.

wine style: rich white
GROTH 08 Chardonnay, Napa, California 225672 $37.95
A wow Chard experience. Warm, buttery richness and glamour – along with the something extra that not only seduces, but excites. Too good to share with food. Or fools.

REDS
wine style: rustic red
JEAN–MAURICE RAFFAULT 09 Chinon, Loire, France 244798 $16.95
Very rustic, very tangy dry and very real. Classic French bistro red to stimulate the palate and partner charcuterie or white meats. Needs the table. Wonderful pure expression of the Cabernet Franc grape variety.

wine style: rustic red
STRATUS 09 Rosé ‘Wildass’, Niagara 71712 $19.95
The label says rosé and it looks like rosé, but the wine feels and acts rustic. Earthy, solid and in need of a food partner. Could handle almost anything off the BBQ.

wine style: rustic red
CASTLELLANI 07 Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy 970707 $14.95
Classic, everyday Tuscan red. Lots of spunk, vigour and a country feeling. Best with white meats, pasta or pizza….and a second bottle.

wine style: rich red
SANTA VITTORIA 07 Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 211805 $21.95
A mature, friendly edition of this Italian classic – at a nice price. Warm, woodsy flavours and a little mystery. Buy for fall and winter dinner parties.

wine style: rich red
ERAL BRAVO 08 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina 58081 $17.95
A great value, big impact wine with an international star personality. Argentina heft combined with the warm and earthy feeling of blockbuster wines from the north of Spain. Hearty never tasted better! And was more affordable. Bring on the beef or lamb.

wine style: rich red
DOMAINE BOUDAU 09 ‘Le Clos’, Cotes du Roussillon, France 149989 $16.55
If you like Merlot, you’ll love this wine. Silky rich, plummy sweet and super seductive. Spicy/peppery flavours mark the wine’s south of France origin. The price tag is reasonable, but not the alcohol – so enjoy in moderation, if you can.

wine style: rich red
DOMAINE ANDRE AUBERT 09 Visan, Cotes du Rhone-Villages, France 224915 $12.95
Spicy/sweet, dense, yummy, super-rich red at a bargain price. Go get it.

ANOTHER ROSE REPORT

TORRES 10 Rosado, ‘Sangre de Toro’, Spain 233437 $11.95
The fruity, strawberry, fun character of Spanish Rosés. Perfect for parties and substantial enough for food. Handy screw cap and friendly price. Perfect.

MARQUES DE CACERES 10 Rosado, Rioja, Spain 622142 $12.95
Caceres has been our most consistent supplier of good dry Rosé and the 2010 vintage is just as tasty and refreshing as the previous years. Also perfect.

TERRES de SAINT LOUIS 10 Rosé, Coteaux Varois en Provence, France 234575 $10.95
Understated at first but becomes more flavourful. Not the traditional rich Provence style but a great value for everyday drinking.

Previously recommended:
MASI 10 Rosato ‘Modello delle Venezie, Italy 587725 $10.95
Masi’s wine is crisp with delicious cherry/berry flavours. Bone dry and light in the traditional style. Spot-on as the Brits say.

CONO SUR 10 Carmenere Rosé Reserva, Chile 234567 $11.95
The Chilean winery, Cono Sur, never puts a foot wrong and their Carmenere Rosé is one of the hits of the season. Crafted for the modern taste – fruity, off-dry, easy drinking and kinda rich. Sure to put a smile on the faces of your party friends. And would be a good partner for spicy/hot foods.

Decent second stringers
CAVE SPRING 2010 Rosé, VQA Niagara (#295006 $13.95) is low flavoured but good hot day refreshment. For a crowd-pleasing, slightly sweet, party wine check out HENRY OF PELHAM 2010 ‘Sibling Rivalry’ Pink, VQA Niagara (#171033 $13.95). A good choice for lunch is the lighthearted, low alcohol and slightly sweet  REMY PANNIER 2010 Rose d’Anjou, Loire, France (#12641 $11.95).

Many everyday-priced local reds are perfumed with vanilla to mask the tartness, and make them more crowd-pleasing. It’s a form of wine processing that robs the drink of its true character. Tartness is a natural component in Ontario wine because we’re not a super hot climate like Australia or California.

Italian reds such as Barbera, Chianti and Valpolicella have a good dose of tartness – which is why they work well with foods. I’ve just tasted a Niagara red with these Italian characteristics. My notes were ‘local bistro at last’ ‘great summer refreshment’ ‘too tart for wimps’ ‘local punk that’s not Baco’ ‘Rustic never tasted better’ ‘Bravo Craig!’

CRUSH is a multi-grape blend showing a lot of the pepper character of Syrah. It is made at Hillebrand by Aussie winemaker Craig McDonald. A true local ‘bistro-style’ red that I urge you to try. Lightly chill and watch your appetite soar.  Equally good with red or white meats,  pizza or a cheese sandwich.

CRUSH Red 2009, VQA Niagara 234294 $12.95

Add to my recommendations of April 9.

Cattail Creek 09 Riesling $15.95
Delish fruitiness and force ten refreshment. Excellent Niagara Riesling.

Colaneri 09 Sauvignon Blanc ‘Fumaso Biano’ $24.95
Amazing flavour concentration and richness due to partial drying of the grapes. Sunset on the patio sipper.

Coyote’s Run 10 Pinot Gris ‘Red Paw’ $17.95
Lively, lovely summer sipper.

Hillebrand 08 Trius Grand Red $55.20
A Bordeaux blend with the elegance and charm of Pinot Noir. Delicious NOW. Do not cellar!

Inniskillin 09 Pinot Noir ‘Winemakers Series’ $19.95
Light, fruity, spicy Pinot for BBQ’d white meats.

Jackson-Triggs 06 Sparkling Brut ‘Entourage’ $22.95
Austere, elegant Champagne styling for a fraction of the price. Smart new label too. I’m stocking up.

Lailey 10 Sauvignon Blanc $20
Lighthearted Savy with a ‘let’s be happy’ feeling. Gorgeous summer party drink.

Peller Estates 10 Rosé ‘Private Reserve’ $17.15
Seriously dry, earthy Rosé. Best with food.

Pondview 10 Pinot Grigio ‘Dragon Fly‘ $18.15
Wonderful freshness, delicate flavours and way better than Santa Margarita.

Ravine 08 Meritage $24.95
Light, lively and a lovely edition of the Bordeaux blend. Very gulpable, very bistro-ish.

Reif 09 Shiraz/Pinot Noir ‘The Magician’ $19.95
Made with kiln-dried grapes. Slightly sweet, concentrated and great with a platter of sticky ribs.

Southbrook 07 Cabernet/Merlot ‘Triomphe’ $22.95
Gutsy, rustic and very Old World. Food wine.

Stonechurch 09 White ‘Quintet’ $20.15
Multi-grape blend that hits all the pleasure points. Excellent summer sipper.

Stratus 09 White ‘Wildass’ $19.95
Stratus 08 Red ‘Wildass’ $19.95
White drinks like an upscale Pinot Grigio. Good with everything. Red is rustic with an amazing range of flavours. Very bistro-ish, very good.

And why wouldn’t they?  When you combine the zest of dry Riesling with the body of Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio, and season the blend with the exotic perfume of Gewurztraminer – you have something with a lot of appeal. And great drinkability. These blended wines started appearing a few years ago and now almost all wineries are getting in the game.

Blended wines used to frowned upon, or misunderstood, but it’s the right formula for our cool climate where different grape varieties perform differently each year. Blending allows to winemaker to produce a more consistent product, and to maintain a reasonable price. Check out the following at your local LCBO.

HENRY OF PELHAM 10 ‘Sibling Rivalry’ White VQA Niagara 126144 $13.95
. . . off dry but refreshingly tart. Patio sipper.

HENRY OF PELHAM 10 ‘School House’ Riesling/Pinot Grigio, VQA Niagara 219022 $12.95
. . . Riesling zest and the good drinkability of PG. Really good edition of basic – a Honda wine.

RIDGEPOINT 09 ‘Monticello Bianco’ VQA Niagara 218651 $13.95
. . . herbaceous, spicy, and refreshing. Another summer sipper

HILLEBRAND 09 ‘Crush White’, VQA Niagara 234310 $12.75
. . . Pinot Grigio with a beach town flavour. The perfect partner for any lighthearted event.

CHATEAU DES CHARMES 09 ‘Generation Seven White’, VQA Niagara 197988 $13.95
. . . refreshing with a little spicy sweetness. A fun summer day feeling. Good party choice.

KACABA 09 ‘Gypsy’ White, VQA Niagara 215053 $10.95
. . . off-dry with lots of spicy perfume. Would be popular and you have to like the price.