Please try and have these wines in the recommended context. Wine pleasure is about a match of wine and mood. More wine recommendations can also be found here. And of course, the best source for LCBO General List wines and Vintages Essentials is my wine guide, 'Billy's Best Bottles Wines for 2008'. The most USEFUL winebook on the market. Order your copy here.

Sláinte,
Billy

FIRST BBQ RED FOR 2008

GOOD NEW SPAINISH RED

SPRING SAUVIGNON

SEDUCTIVE PICKS

Good everyday ONTARIO REDS

RAVENSWOOD ZINFANDEL

COOKOTHAMA

RHÔNE REDS

BIG RICH REDS

SPARKLING & CHAMPAGNE

BIG BOTTLE RED

COLIO ESTATES 'LILY' SPARKLING

CODORNIU SPARKLING

CHAMPAGNE PROPER

CREEKSIDE SHIRAZ

STONECHURCH wines

SPANISH REDS

SWEET SPARKLING

TERRA D'ALGIGI – a great winter red

BEAUJOLAIS & NOUVEAU

WYNDHAM'S BINS – good house reds

AUSSIE HOUSE WHITES – Long Flat & Lindemans

RIESLING REPORT

MUSCADET

PROSECCO

SPARKLING FOR CELEBRATING

BILLY'S BIG SAUVIGNON REPORT

A SECOND LOOK AT ROSÉ

LOCAL GAMAY

PINOT GRIGIO

BILLY'S BBQ REDS

HARDYS Perfect Pair

TETRA PAK Low Down!

MONDAVI In-Home Wine Tasting

THE YELLOW WINES!

PINOT OPPORTUNITY

CHIANTI REVIVAL

HOUSE WINES

READ MY NIAGARA REPORT here for Niagara recommedations.

Hope everyone's stocking contains a copy of Billy's Best Bottles Wines for 2008! A handy reference all year long. I tasted over 1000 wines to choose 200 wines which I think offer great value and personality. My book organizes the wines by 'mood', so you know the best context to drink them. And the coloured bottle shots makes shopping dead-easy.

FIRST OF THE BBQ SEASON
The early arrival of summer has prompted me to jump right into rich BBQ reds - with something new and wonderful from Chile.

Chile has been the value wine leader for some time but it’s now expanding into the interesting category too. You can find delicious, yummy wines with a bit of style and personality. Wines that are more than 'just nice'.

One of the ways Chilean wines are becoming interesting is with the rediscovery of the Carmenere grape variety. The grape has been in Chile since the 1850s but winemakers have only recently crafted it into something other than another clone of Merlot. (Actually most growers thought it was Merlot and harvested it before it was fully ripe.)

It’s hard to get a clear fix on Carmenere’s personality as each winery seems to be coming up with a different expression. But let’s not worry about that as long as the wine tastes good. Tarapaca Carmenere certainly does. This red combines bigness with charm. Expect the richness of Merlot along with the seductive charms of Pinot Noir - which is nor a bad thing to be sipping as you BBQ a burger or two!

What I also really like about Tarapaca’s wine is the bright, lively feeling. Few rich reds manage this. There’s a glow that keeps you wanting more and more. Somewhere between an invitation to dance and one to make love. Who needs a burger?

Tarapaca 06 Carmenere, Maipo Valley, Chile 64436 $12.60

A DIFFERENT RED FROM SPAIN
The quality of wine keeps improving every year. Some of today’s ten dollar bottles are better than wine at twice the price from a decade or two ago. Winemaking and grape growing is now more science than craft and there is really no excuse for a poor bottle.

Everything has it’s downside however, and in wine it’s a 'sameness' factor: give everyone the same training and manufacturing equipment and you end up with pretty much the same result.
Sameness in wine is also the product of powerful marketing departments who insist on a nice safe product over an interesting one.

Red wine suffers more than white. There seems to be a prototype of how it should taste – you may have noticed that Merlot seems a lot like a Cabernet, which seems a lot like a Shiraz. Smooth, with a hint of sweetness describes most of today’s reds.

Nothing wrong with that because it makes a lot of people very happy. Niceness rules. But it can get boring.

Hot climate, New World countries are most guilty of sameness in their wines but many of the old Europeans are also going in that direction. The saving grace with Spanish and Italian reds is that no matter how crowd pleasing they become in style, a little local character shines through. They retain a little ‘difference’.

Enter Red Guitar. Here's a wine that feels friendly, but also a little challenging. House red that’s more than just nice.

Red Guitar 06 Navarra, Spain 54007 $12.95

SPRING SAUVINGON

Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc is a good-any-season drink. It's a local I’d be happy to have anytime, and one I’d be proud to take anywhere.

Fans of New Zealand Sauvs will know what I’m talking about when I call this wine ‘a rocker’. High energy, jolting and energizing. Something to get you going. An extreme wine.

Jackons-Triggs Sauv is only mildly extreme – more of a Muskoka breeze than a full force gale. Refreshment with a lovely spring meadow feeling. There’s a fruity and flirty friendliness that's similar to Pinot Grigio but more stylish. Wine for ladies lunching at Holts. For the rest of us, after work, party sipping, a seafood supper and weekend brunch are just some of the possibilities with this wine.

I often get flak from boutique Niagara wineries when I recommend a wine such as this because it’s by one of the big guys. Sure it’s great to support small business, but for the local industry to develop it needs wines that are available in quantity, with prices close to the competition from the outside world. It needs a really good wine such as J-T Sauvignon Blanc.

Jackson-Triggs 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Niagara VQA 58438 $13.85

SEDUCTIVE PICKS

Wine is surely the oldest seducer of all, and just like romance there are many ways to play it.

The most popular and obvious choice is sparkling wine because it’s inherently seductive. Besides the fizz up your nose, the tingle on your tongue, it actually changes your chemistry. The bubbles raise your blood-alcohol level making you feel lighthearted. As Shakespeare said, “it provokes the desire”. Let’s forget that he also said something about, “taking away the performance”.

Splurge on a good bottle of sparkling rosé such as Cuvee Catharine– it’s way more fun than roses.

Cooking dinner for your guy or gal is a great expression of love especially when you pair it with a rich, cuddly red wine. Forget Shiraz this week and go big time with Italy’s romantic red, Amarone. Opera in a bottle. But start the evening with a glass of a simpler red so that when you pour the Amarone the message is clear: “we’re moving into romance".

Chocolate and raspberry wine (Framboise) is a no brainer. Get some truffles, chill the Framboise, and serve both on a nice plate.

Should you be in the mood to have all these wines (and why not?!) remember to refrigerate unfinished bottles for an encore the following day.

And of course, don't forget a copy of my book for your sweetie.

HENRY of PELHAM Rosé Brut ‘Cuvee Catharine’, Niagara 4051 $29.95
MASI 04 Amarone ‘Costasera’, Italy 317057 $34.95
SOUTHBROOK Framboise, Ontario 341034 $14.95/375ml

There is a new $16 sparkling wine on the shelves that tastes a lot like Champagne. It’s rich, toasty and quite yummy. Producers in the Limoux region claim that they had perfected the sparkling wine act long before Dom Perignon and his mates started up. And I believe them. People who sell their wine at low prices not only speak the truth but deserve our support. Thanks for this one.

CREMANT de LIMOUX BRUT, ‘Sieur d’Arques’, France
52985 $16.85

THE ZIN THAT REFUSED TO FADE AWAY
For a while there it looked like Californian Zinfandel was going to be the next big red. But it sort of faded away. RAVENSWOOD has kept the flame alive in these parts and I suggest you check out the recently arrived 05 vintage. It starts out slowly – silky, spicy/sweet with the charm of a Pinot. A lovely sipper. The second half of the bottle reminds me of Tawny Port. Quite exotic. What more could you ask for on a freezing February night?

RAVENSWOOD 05 Zinfandel 'Vintners Blend’, California
359257 $16.80

NOT SO COOKOO!
It’s easy to be put suspect of Aussie wines with all their animal and ethnic labeling. A pair not to miss however is the Cookoothama red and white that deliver lots of wine character for $14.

P.S. These wines are produced by the Nugan family winery and Cook-a-tharma’ is an aboriginal word for ‘fertile land’.

COOKOOTHAMA 06 Chardonnay
619403 $14.05
Lush, rich but not overdone. More grace than glitz. An invitation to relax. Read a book wine.

COOKOOTHAMA 06 Shiraz
619460 $14.05
Concentrated, with lots of fruit and spice. Feels more playful and more together than most Aussie reds. Burgers or ribs.

RHÔNE RHÔNE RHÔNE
In the $10 to $50 price range the Rhône valley in the south of France produces the most friendly, nourishing, and charming red wines in the world. And in quantities sufficient to supply the world.
Besides value, drinkability and availability, the peppery nature of Rhone reds make them a good partner for today’s popular rich foods with hot or spicy seasonings.

Rhône reds get their appealing warmth and flavour from the practice of blending grapes varieties. The Grenache for liveliness, the Syrah for depth and the Mourvedre for richness. It’s a magical combination that no other region can match. Historically the Rhone has lacked the prestige of fancier location but now that the Wine Spectator selected 10 Rhône wines in its top 100 (including the #1 spot) this may change. And prices will rise.

My drinking is mainly from the south, Côtes du Rhône, and its village designation wines. If you’d like a little Rhône sunshine tonight get some of the following:

LOUIS BERNARD 06 Côtes du Rhône-Village, France 391458 $12.85
Semi rich with lovely warmth and a feel-good quality. Simple doesn’t get much better.

BIG RICH REDS
Welcome the New Year with a splurge. Something rich and warming – a blockbuster red.

Many of today’s popular reds have a suggestion of richness but if you want real heft you have to pay for it. Deep concentrated flavours don’t come cheaply. But look at it this way, restaurants charge you as much for house wine.

The trick for maximizing the rich red experience is to not share it with food. They’re stars – so naturally they shine best on their own. An inch at a time, in a large glass, after dinner, or any time you want to chill out.

When researching for Billy’s Best Bottles Wines for 2008, I found three really good wines that fit this rich red category: a Shiraz, a Cabernet and an Amarone. All different, but all heartwarming and with similar prices.

WOLF BLASS introduced us to Aussie Shiraz so it’s no surprise that he still has one of the biggest shows in town. Spicy sweet, solid and substantial.

For some, Cabernet is the king of reds and you’ll see why when you experience BERINGER'S KNIGHTS VALLEY. It’s California at its best – big, lovely and a charmer.

Italy’s AMARONE is the grandaddy of rich reds. Produced from partially dried grapes it has amazing flavour concentration, richness, and high alcohol. And for sure, it delivers a toasty, nourishing feeling.

Opened bottles of these wines will keep well for at least three days. It’s fun to revisit them especially if you’re smart enough to have a couple on the go. Remember, an inch at a time.

Wolf Blass 04 Shiraz ‘Grey Label’, Australia 390872 $33.05
Beringer 04 Cabernet Sauvignon, Knights Valley, California 352583 $39.95
Masi 04 Amarone Valpolicella, ‘Costasera’, Italy $34.95 317057

BIG BOTTLE RED
The easiest wine question I got asked over the holidays was about which country delivers the best red wine values. What surprised me was the response when I said Italy. “Oh, I hardly ever buy Italian wine.”

Seems to me that there are people who buy Italian wine, and people who don't. Sales of Italian wine is strong in Ontario but for some it’s a bit foreign. And maybe too cheap to be trusted. Italian reds have always been inexpensive but recently they have also become good too. They’re never going to deliver the yummy, fruity richness of hot climate countries, but they’re no longer lean and mean. They no longer need to be feared. If you’re currently paying $14 for your favourite Shiraz, consider the option of buying a magnum of Italian red for the same price.

The trick to enjoying bargain Italian red is to understand that these wines are crafted for food. Their tangy dryness stimulates the appetite and to keeps it going throughout dinner. They are more about vitality than richness or niceness. Drink them with, and as you prepare supper – but don’t take them to the party.

PASQUA'S MERLOTis bright, lively and the perfect partner for a tomato sauced pasta dish. It echoes the fun of everyday Italian foods. Once opened, the best way to preserve this wine is to transfer it to a smaller bottle so there is less air contact.

PASQUA 06 Merlot delle Venezie, Italy 611780 $13.95/1500ml

LOCAL FUN
Let's ease into the new year with somethings lighthearted. Easy drinking wines in fun packages. No, not more critter labels, but a pair of charmers from Niagara.

STONECHURCH has been making wine in the Niagara-on-the-Lake region for ages, but has never done much to warrant our attention. However, last month while 'LCBO browsing' my attention was drawn to very smart-looking Cabernet and Riesling offerings, by Stonechurch of course. Sexy Italian-looking bottles and lipstick smeared labels often mean ‘beware’ but not this time. Both these wines deliver a fun-style as suggested by their packaging.

The Riesling is a yummy, off-dry, anytime or party sipper. A cheerful partner for the months ahead. The Cabernet is lively – Beaujolais inspired and laced with vanilla spicy sweetness. Another party sipper or wash-down for burgers or ribs.

My only word of caution is that these wines may not appeal to the purist. Their ripe, smooth character is more in keeping with something from a much warmer climate. Shades of Yellow Tail! But they are really good drinks – which is more than can be said for a lot of the ‘celebrity’ local wines launched last year. It’s great to see Stonechurch showing some innovation, and spirit. Check out the back label food suggestion, ‘enjoy with the cuisine of your choice’. Right on.

STONECHURCH 06 Riesling, Niagara 65714 $12.95
STONECHURCH 04 Cabernet Sauvignon, Niagara 65722 $16.50

REALLY GOOD NIAGARA SHIRAZ
As you know I’m really keen on local wineries producing distinctive, cool climate wine, as opposed to editions similar to something from California. So hats off to CREEKSIDE for crafting a truly Niagara Shiraz.

Creekside's ‘Broken Press’ Shiraz' is a wine of great purity, fruit expression and challenge. Shades of something from the old world that grabs your taste buds, makes you hungry, and engages your imagination. The last thing on the mind of this wine is niceness or smoothness. It should really be labeled Syrah because it’s closer in style to the grape from the Rhône rather than Australia. Only 273 cases of this ‘Broken Press’ Shiraz were produced, at $32.95 a bottle. Highly recommended especially if you age it a year or two.

Creekside has also produced an excellent, understated, stylish, slightly rich Reserve Sauvignon that would be a dandy dinner companion with a chicken or pork dish. It’s $19.95. Contact the winery to arrange purchase. www.creeksidewine.com

SPARKLING & CHAMPAGNE PICKS
People are drinking a lot more sparkling wine. Sales are way up. I have no idea why this is happening so I can only assume it has something to do with the Aquarian age of enlightenment. More people celebrating everyday, as opposed to waiting for a big moment.

Another reason may be that sparkling wine has never been so good, and so affordable. If you’re not into the sparkling habit yet may I offer a tip that might help get you started. Don’t think that you always have to finish the bottle. Have a glass or two at the cocktail hour, recork the bottle and repeat the following evening. With the help of a Champagne stopper (an essential wine tool) a refrigerated bottle will remain fizzy and fresh for 3 to 4 days.

Did you know that only Champagne, from that region in France, can be called Champagne? All the other fizzy wines are simply called sparkling. But don’t let wine snobs intimidate you into buying Champagne. You can lead a very happy life with all the other sparkling wines. And the Holidays are a good time to develop the sparkling habit as the season seems to make us feel less guilty about celebrating.

SPARKLING
One of the best kept secrets in local wine is COLIO ESTATES 'LILY' sparkling...see the article below.Spain is the home of great value bubbly and a couple of not to be missed buys are the newly arrived CODORNIU 'NON PLUS ULTRA'. This is a delicious fruity, toasty drink that's classy enough for the fussy and yummy enough for all the rest. And then there’s my longtime hero from Spain, SEGURA VIUDAS BRUT. Pour at every event and you'll be loved by all.

CHAMPAGNE
Champagne can be likened to religion – the more you believe, the more you get out of it. If you’re a believer, I recommend the following. The very dry, earthy and yeasty LANSON BLACK LABEL BRUT which feels very old world. Cocktail hour at the country club – in a room with a roaring fire and heavy drapes. For a more elegant, understated experience get POL ROGER BRUT or ROEDERER BRUT. Refreshment for the palate at first, followed by delicate flavours later. Keeps you wanting more.
If you're in the mood for glamour look for POL ROGER 98 EXTRA CUVEÉ de RESERVE BRUT (at Vintages). Has the luxury hotel feeling. Wine in a gold frame that invites you to have a splashy event for two – with this as the cocktail.

COLIO ESTATES Sparkling 'Lily', Ontario 509083 $14.95
CODORNIU 'Non plus Ultra' Brut, Spain 53660 $20.95
SEGURA VIUDAS BRUT, Spain 158493 $13.95
LANSON Black Label Brut Champagne, France 41889 $44.95
POL ROGER Brut Champagne, France 51953 $54.90
ROEDERER Brut Premier Champagne, France 268771 $63.95
POL ROGER 98 Extra Cuveé de Reserve Brut Champagne, France 989137 $79.95

SPANISH SPARKLING

As you might know, Spain is the home of great value bubbly and a couple of great buys this season are the special LCBO purchase, CODORNIU 'NON PLUS ULTRA'. A delicious fruity, toasty drink that's classy enough for the fussy and yummy enough for all the rest. Perfect for New Years. But get extra for drinking in 2008.

CODORNIU 'Non Plus Ultra' Brut, Spain 53660 $20.95

Last year’s great buy in sparkling is available again. DON'T MISS OUTon Codorniu’s white and rosé pair in a gift pack. Two bottles of premium sparkling wine for less than $30. Both are excellent cocktail hour sparklers.

CODORNIU Reserva Raventos & Pinot Noir Brut Cava, Spain
6379 $29.95

Do I need to mention the longtime hero from Spain, SEGURA VIUDAS? Pour at every holiday event and you'll be loved by all.
SEGURA VIUDAS Brut, Spain 158493 $13.95

SWEET SPARKLING

Check out this delicious strawberry flavoured sparkling wine from Chile.

No yukky artificial flavourings – this tastes like it was made from Ontario fruit. A must for brunch, or whenever.

Available in minis or full bottle.

FRESITA, Chile 56697 $13.95
(56705 4x187ml/$14.95)

SPANISH REDS
Take on a Latin lover! Spread cheer with the yummy reds from Spain.

Spanish reds are often described as the Aussies of Europe. There’s an emphasis on richness, so you can expect warmhearted, spicy wines. – everyone’s favourite. Few people know that it was Spain who first came up with the idea of ageing reds in oak casks thereby giving the wine spicy/sweet vanilla flavours. Spanish reds also have a mellow character but they seldom feel too heavy or rich.
For the past few years we’ve been hearing lots about the foods and chefs of Spain. Tapas bars are popping up everywhere – so it’s a good time to start exploring the wines.

For a Spanish house red I'd recommend Bodega Piqueras 03 Castillo de Almansa. It’s a little earthy at first, charm kicks in later. Could well be the best value red in the world. Get a case.
In the mellow and seductive category try Campo Viejo 04 Rioja. This would a good choice with the big bird. It has a gentle quality and a nice way of fitting in rather than overpowering, and adds a little spice too.

For a little fireside romance, or a slow dinner, you need Vina Mayor 01 Ribera del Duero. This charmer has lots of warmth and spice, along with a lovely old wine character.

Bodega Piqueras 03 Castillo de Almansa, Spain 270363 $10.90
Campo Viejo 04 Rioja Crianza, Spain 620997 $13.95
Vina Mayor 01 Ribera del Duero, Spain 19901 $15.75

P.S. If you must have Aussie why not a white? Wolf Blass Dry Riesling would be a great party starter with its hit of refreshment and teasing citrussy flavours.
Wolf Blass 06 Riesling Yellow Label, Australia 505370 $14.95

A NEW ABRUZZI RED...to have with Angelo Bean's sausages

Terra d’Aligi borders on richness but the feeling is Italian gutsy, rustic. A real solid, feet-on-the-ground wine that will make you feel warm and nourished.The Italian province of Abruzzi sends us amazing reds at low prices. Get some.

TERA D'ALIGI 04 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy 28530 $11.75

PARTY TIME!

Beaujolais Nouveau marks the beginning of the holiday party season. Nouveau is the first wine of the year’s harvest (specially crafted to be drinkable at six weeks) so naturally it’s light and lighthearted – perfect party stuff.

Wine snobs look down on Nouveau wines because they’re not serious enough. But since when did seriousness become a party virtue?
The whole idea of Nouveau wines is to celebrate the harvest – it’s the wine world’s thanksgiving. The Beaujolais region in Burgundy France does it big time because its wine is a party drink by nature.
Other parts of France that produce light reds also celebrate Nouveau as do regions in Italy. The Valpolicella co-op in Negrar has been sending us very good gulping Novello for several years now. The striking lion-theme label is designed by Toronto artist, Daryl Woods.

All the brightly coloured Nouveau/Novello labels suggest fun times – just in case you did not know how to use the wine. The Mommessin wine comes with three different party scene labels – Paris, Moscow and Tokyo. I suggest you buy a bunch of the wines, get some friends together and create your own Canadian scene. Lightly chill the wines and keep the event lighthearted. Don’t turn it into a winetasting.

I like to get a few extra bottles of Nouveau because the wine’s refreshing nature always hits the spot over the Holiday season. Nouveau is a great match for turkey. Here are my picks of this year’s crop. The cheapies turned out to be the best – but I do love those Mommessin labels!

Georges Duboeuf 07 Gamay Nouveau, France 891846 $8.95
Lots of tang. Rustic – needs bread and cheese.

JeanJean Syrah Primeur 07 VDP d'Oc, France 89948 $9.95
Juicy, lively, fun. Let the party begin!

Mezzacorona Novio Vino Novello 07, Italy 669275 $9.95
Most substantial of the group. Nice-guy quality.

I'm a huge fan of 'regular 'Beaujolais all year round. It's perfect with a roast pork or chicken dish and won't weigh your palate down. We also like it with turkey, Indian food and grilled salmon. Check two of my favourites out:

BOUCHARD Pere & Fils 06 Beaujolais-Villages, France
122077 $12.75

GEORGES DUBOEUF 06 Beaujolais-Villages, France
122077 $12.75

ONE YEAR OLDER
One of the great things about the modern wine world is that everything is ready to drink as soon as it hits the shelves. No waiting, no aging required.

The reason we used to wait five years before opening a red was grape growers and winemakers were not up on science. Their product was undrinkable when first bottled, but would come together and develop smoothness with time.

Today’s wine is better grown and better made, and to use computer analogy, it works faster. There is no waiting. But what if you were to keep a red wine today, say for two or three years? Would it improve or not?

In many cases it will fade – lose flavour and vitality. But the richer reds often develop a warm mellow quality that can be very appealing in the upcoming winter months. And if you would like to check out that experience I have good news. There are a few reds on the LCBO shelves that are already aged.

Wyndham Estates claims to have made the original Aussie Shiraz. Their Bin 555 is certainly popular and the 04 oozes fireside warmth and richness. Could be mistaken for Port.

Wyndham's 04 Cabernet has also developed into a charmer. Hefty Cabernet with a loving, soft side. Fit for a romantic steak dinner.

WYNDHAM ESTATES 04 Shiraz ‘Bin 555’, Australia
189415 $15.95

WYNDHAM ESTATES 04 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Bin 444’, Australia
110486 $14.95

HOUSE WHITES
We’re staying in Australia for another week to explore a couple of great values in white wine. Australia has become the darling of the wine world thanks to its ability to produce crowd-pleasing wines, often with fun names. In whites, however, I find many of the big selling Chardonnays to be a shade too cute or nice – but I do like a lot of the whites from the other grape varieties. In preparing the 08 edition of my Annual Guide I came across two fantastic whites that have the right credentials for house wines – they’re lively, tasty and inexpensive.

Long Flat sounds like a driving trip anywhere in Ontario but the name was originally a vineyard site and wine from the Tyrrells winery in Australia. A few year’s ago Tyrrells sold the name so Long Flat is now a brand. Brands often translate to dull, safe wines but not in this case. In Long Flat white you’ll find a combination of the zest of Sauvignon Blanc grapes, and the savoury flavours of Semillon. The first glass is about refreshment and after that the wine gets more flavourful and foodish. How perfect is that.

Lindemans have always produced very commercial wines – nice but boring. But I’m detecting a change for the better. The Pinot Grigio below certainly has a nice personality but it feels genuine. You cannot help but want to befriend it because it has a lovely hit of fun – simple wine that says 'Let’s relax', 'Let’s party', 'Let’s start feeling good'. Enjoy anytime, no need for food. Handy screwcap.

LONG FLAT 06 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, Australia  
183715 $9.95

LINDEMANS 07 Pinot Grigio ‘Bin 85’, Australia  668947 $10.95

And in case you missed it, I have previously recommended Long Flat 05 Cabernet Shiraz (212373 $9.95).

DON'T FORGET THE GREEN
VINHO VERDE is the Dry Riesling of Portugal. Low in alcohol, tart and super refreshing. There’s usually a slight spritz so you also get the fun of sparkling wine. And let’s not forget low price. How come a wine with so many things going for it is not more popular? Beats me.

Sogrape ‘Gazela’ is still the best because it delivers the hit of refreshment better than the rest. It’s keen, bright and focused. If ever there was a wine to put in cans, and in Coke machines this is it.

SOGRAPE Vinho Verde ‘Gazela’ Portugal 141432 $8.15

BILLY'S RIESLING REPORT
Here’s a prediction. Dry Riesling will continue to grow in popularity and will be the ‘in’ dry wine in a couple of years. How do I know this? One word. Australia. Australian winemakers love dry Riesling and soon this will filter down to the Aussie public and to the rest of the world. Remember how we copied every thing the French did, well today we copy Australia. What’s good for them is good for us.

Other factors at play in the rise of Riesling (it’s really a re-rise) are availability from other places such as Washington State, New Zealand and of course, Ontario. And something that no one has spotted – dry Riesling has a similar ‘livewire’ and weird nature as Sauvignon Blanc whose fans are looking for their next guru. One more reason: Germany is finally getting its act together so Riesling will no longer have the Blue Nun millstone around its neck.

When I said the next ‘in’ grape I didn’t mean that Riesling would replace Chardonnay or any of the crowd-pleasing whites. Dry Riesling is not a ‘nice’ wine. It’s a jolting refresher. It needs the thirsty context and savvy winos know that. Those are the ones who will be buying Riesling.

P.S. The 2006 vintage was really good for local Riesling but some are extremely challenging right now. However, they will turn out really well.

TEN THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT RIESLING
1. It’s a white grape that originated in Germany. So it’s winter hardy, hence it’s popularity with Ontario growers.
2. Riesling is the only grape that can deliver wine in all styles: Dry, Sweet and Dessert (icewine).
3. Unfortunately this creates confusion but life is getting easier as most of today’s Rieslings are made in the dry style. The label will tell you when it’s not.
4. Some images for Dry Riesling: colour green, stainless steel, slim model, cold marble floor, the tension of the final minutes of a close sports event, German sports car, high notes, anything edgy or pure.
5. Less is more – simplicity is equal to richness. Riesling never wears the perfume of oak.
6. It’s all about the ‘rush’, the experience. It’s the ‘Pow’ in cartoons. A felt experience, a fix. Quick and to the point. It always needs to be followed by a comfort wine.
7. Dry Riesling is one of the world’s best refreshers. It can appear to be lacking flavour but that’s due to good manners and breeding. You have to engage it.
8. Off-dry and semi-dry Rieslings have gorgeous pure fruit/spice flavours. The perfect garden sipping wines.
9. Many Rieslings are low and even super low in alcohol. Making them the #1 choice for gulping refreshment.
10. A lot of people miss pronounce it as Rise-ling. Don’t say rise, say rees.


THE TENSION< THE PAIN< THE THRILL
Stuff for your head before heading out to buy Riesling.

A. A bottle of dry Riesling is usually a two evening affair. The first glass is always the best. The second is about thinking of food . . . what red to open. The third glass should not happen till the next evening when you repeat the exercise. (Your refrigerated, open bottle will keep well for four or five days).
B. Have off-dry (nice) Riesling at lazy times such as week-end afternoons.


BILLY'S BEST BUYS IN RIESLING

Rieslings in the FRESH STYLE – thirstquenchers, patio lunch, aperitif, or partner for seafood appetizers.

HENRY of PELHAM 06 Reserve Riesling, Niagara 283291 $13.95
Mix of freshness and flavour – a great tease for the senses. Could take you nicely through aperitif and into dinner. Excellent Riesling at an everyday price. Fans should cellar for a year or three.

CAVE SPRING 06 Reserve Riesling, Niagara 26377 $17.95
Steely dry, cold as ice and super invigorating. As close as wine gets to the dry Martini. Elegant wine that invites you to dress up. More dinner aperitif than simple refreshment. A bit closed now, but if you have the bottle over a few days you’ll see how it’s going to develop. A must for the fan.

INNISKILLIN 04 Riesling,‘Reserve Series’, Niagara 34025 $14.25
Holy cow! This is amazing. Dry Riesling hitting the mature age where the flavours start to explode and the wine becomes magical. Or challenging, depending on your relationship with this grape. A difficult to describe experience – but try this, having a sexual fantasy while skiing down a very dangerous slope. A scary thrill! Could inspire you to start a Riesling cellar. And have more sexual fantasies. Refresher/aperitif.

JACKSON-TRIGGS 06 Dry Riesling, Niagara 526277 $11.25 reduced to $9.95 till September 16. Best sure to get the 06 vintage
One of the best frank, everyday expressions of Dry Riesling. Super refreshing but not too austere. Wine you want to have everyday. And a great value. A must for the fridge.

VINELAND 06 Dry Riesling, Niagara 167551 $13.85
Good, but strictly for the fan. Feels even more tart than usual because of the vintage. Given time it should develop flavour and should be as classic as all the previous vintages of this wine. Not for the timid.

WOLF BLASS 06 Yellow Label Riesling, Australia 505370 $15.15
An instant shot of energy. Bracing. Confident. Tons of citrussy zest – a must have in hot weather. There should be a chilled bottle on every summer bar. Best lemonade in the world. A great ambassador for Dry Riesling.

MOUNT RILEY 06 Riesling, New Zealand 24869 $17.95
Here’s the style of Riesling that’s going to win people over. Refreshing, jolting and all that, but note the delicious tropical fruit flavours. It’s the niceness buried in the tartness that grabs you. Bet you’ll find it impossible not to gulp this stuff. With lunch, on the patio, after work, at the party – whenever. Sure to be popular, even at this price.

MOSELLAND 05 Riesling ‘Divinium’ Mosel, Germany 619676 $11.95
Pure as crystal. Sharp, in a good way. More energy than flavour at this stage. The Mosel invented dry, light bodied Riesling – this is only eight percent alcohol. Leaves you wondering how anything so light and so simple can make such a bold statement. Age if you can.

PIERRE SPARR 05 Riesling, Alsace 618546 $14.15
Alsace Riesling bridges the gap between refreshment and richness – making it more of a mealtime wine. Herbal, savoury flavours make it an ideal partner for pork or chicken. A lot of character for a wine unassisted by oak.



Rieslings in the NICE STYLE – off-dry, fruity wines for afternoon sipping. Or any lighthearted times.

CH. des CHARMES 05 Riesling, Niagara 61499 $12.15
Pure, Spring day quality. Very lively. After a few hits of refreshment you start to notice the fruity side. There is an innocence to this wine that I find very appealing. Especially with a patio lunch. One of my fave locals and best white wines in the store.

TRIUS 05 Riesling, Niagara 303792 $13.95
Riesling in the fun and fruity style. A crowdpleaser with good mix of refreshment and niceness. Could be a Pinot Grigio.

ANGELS GATE 06 Riesling ‘Sussreserve’, Niagara 620104 $14.15
Close to medium-dry with really pretty flavours. But the after-taste is dry and refreshing. Brunch or afternoon sipper. Previous vintages of this wine have developed really well, becoming a lot drier.

DEINHARD 06 Riesling ‘Green Label’, Mosel, Germany 8094 $11.15
Drank a bottle of this one afternoon in a friend’s garden and we both thought it could not have been better. Delicious, fruity, spicy flavours delivered with liveliness. Shades of your first kiss – or how you imagined it. Serve well chilled. Family lunches, birthdays, anniversaries or anytime you want people to say ‘this is reeeeely nice’.

BLACK TOWER 06 Riesling, Pfalz, Germany 589184 $10.95
Most improved wine of the year! No, ever! Has the delicious fruity/spicy flavours typical of good Riesling from the Pfalz region. Suggests a lazy mood – another take me to your garden wine.Now in clear glass so should we not call it WhiteTower?

RIESLINGS ALSO TASTED
CAVE SPRING 06 Dry Riesling, Niagara (233635 $13.95) Sharp and clean as a whistle. Too austere now but should turn out well. • HENRY of PELHAM 06 Dry Riesling (268375 $12.95) Razor-edged refresher that also needs a bit of time. • KONZELMANN 06 Riesling off-dry 200501 $11.45) flowery but a bit flat. • MATUA 05 Riesling, New Zealand (27078 $16.15) tart, plain. • PIEROTH 06 Riesling, Pfalz, Germany (23895 $11.15) low flavoured, mineral-style refreshment. Shows promise. • DRATEN 06 Piesporter, Mosel, Germany 42713 $9.15) soft, simple commercial style. • DEINHARD 05 Riesling, Germany(60004 $12.15) Floral, pretty crowdpleaser. • BLUE NUN Riesling, Germany (640151 Carton Pk 500ml/$7.15) Flat, dirty – shades of stale water. • MOSELLAND 06 Riesling, Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay, Mosel, Germany (15875 1l/$9.15) Off-dry, pretty and much improved. A little tame but okay for parties.

BBQ REDS Some spicy/rich Aussie, Chilean, Californian and Spanish to have with whatever you’re smoking on the BBQ.

YALUMBA 05 Shiraz/Viognier ‘Y’ series, Australia
624494 $14.25
Lively and quite refreshing for an Aussie. Lots of vigour and crying out for a burger.

HARDYS 04 Shiraz ‘Nottage Hill’, Australia
375964 $12.80
Spicy sweet Shiraz flavours are beginning to develop a lovely warm, mature feeling. Fireside at the lodge. But great for BBQ too when the mood is mellow. Juicy steaks – late in the evening. Consider getting a little stock of this.

LONG FLAT 05 Cabernet/Shiraz, Australia
212373 $9.95
Rich, with a little spice, and a refreshing tang. Has the generous Aussie spirit, but not a showoff. Hits the ‘everyday’ spot. Ribs or steak. Check the price.

ANGUS THE BULL 05 Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia
602615 $17.95
Aussie richness and ripeness with a bit of style. More like smooth, chocolatey Shiraz than a manly Cab. More charm than power. The Bill Clinton of Cabs. Needless to say this brand was designed to accompany prime beef.

TWIN FIN 05 Cabernet Sauvignon, California
613273 $14.30
Well crafted rich red that won’t overwhelm – there’s room for food and conversation. Even has a little old-fashioned wine flavour. Like that. Another really good everyday BBQ wine. Handy screwcap.
P.S. Twin Fin 03 Shiraz is a big lush. Sweet and seductive.

RAVENSWOOD 05 Zinfandel ‘Vintners Blend’, California
359257 $19.95
As with previous vintages this starts out feeling light ‘n lively – almost Beaujolaisish. Soon after, you get a hit of Rioja sexy, spicy sweetness. The second glass feels richer and finally lands you in California. Zinfandel has a reputation for bigness but this one is more into fun and charm. That’s why I buy it.

OSBORNE 03 Cabernet Sauvignon ’Dominio de Malpica’, Castilla, Spain
32011 $14.95
Rich but understated. Doesn’t crowd you on the first sip. Feels both upscale and a little rustic. Nice spiciness and warmth – calling for hunks of meat on the BBQ. But not a macho Cab. More like a good everyday red. A welcome new addition to the Spanish section.

PINOT GRIGIO
Every time I do a tasting of Pinot Grigio I tell myself to buy it more often. Especially the Fresh-style Lamberti or Mezzacorona which are so delightful early in the day or evening. Both are examples of the less is more principal – which is what we need in hot weather. The fruity, or Nice-style of Pinot Grigio is also mighty appealing for between meals sipping or with Sunday lunch. Check out Okanagan’s Mission Hill.

TIPS ON PINOT GRIGIO
1. Generally speaking it’s a lightish, lighthearted wine for fun times. Daytime or early evening. And family events. Summer season for sure.
2. A lot it is plain and boring, but the good stuff is deightful.
3. Could be likened to the early stages of a first date – wine to drink while you’re feeling-out the situation.
4. Get to know which Pinot Grigios are refreshers and which are nice sippers.
5. The North East of Italy is home. (But, just to confuse you, so is Alsace where they make a rich, Chardonnay style).
6. Chill well.

BILLY'S BEST BUYS IN PINOT GRIGIO

FRESH-STYLE

LAMBERTI 06 Pinot Grigio ‘Santepietre’, Venezie, Italy
560524 $11.25
Light, lively and lovely. I’d say charming too but it doesn’t begin with ‘l’. A little zest, a little sweet pear flavour – and a feeling that’s delicate and delightful. Bridges the Fresh and Nice categories. Simple was never so good. A must for the fridge door. Guaranteed to banish cares. One of the most underrated wines in the store.

MEZZACORONA 06 Pinot Grigio, Trentino, Italy
302380 $12.95 $11.95 till September 16th
Back on top form and a must-have in this refreshing category. Really gets the senses going with zingy, mineral coldness and tingling zest. Knock back the first glass and then dive into some antipasto. Notice how Mezzacorona seems to suck flavours out of the food. Italian whites are good at that. One disappointment, where’s the screwcap?

TWIN FIN 06 Pinot Grigio, California
38323 $13.95
Here’s the screwcap. And a very Italianesque wine – as in slim and bone dry. Californian wine with European manners. Excellent refresher.
P.S. See my BBQ reds for another recommended Twin Fin.

Pinot Grigio also tasted:
• Folonari 06 Pinot Grigio, Italy (229542 $13.30) Pleasant but ordinary. • Lungarotti 05 Pinot Grigio, Umbria, Italy (19018 $13.95) Refreshing, generic dry white. Okay appetizer partner. • Vignabaldo 05 Pinot Grigio, Umbria, Italy (26856 $11.90) Good hot day refresher• Colio 05 CEV Pinot Grigio, Ontario (503391 $14.95) Is getting a bit tired. Needs new vintage.

SAUVIGNON BLANC
This is one of the great wines of summer because of its live-wire, refreshing character. An energizing first of the day drink – definitely the closest white wine to a dry martini. However, not everyone is a fan, so you might want to have something else on hand when entertaining.

10 THINGS YOU WANNA KNOW ABOUT SAUVIGNON BLANC
1. Sauv is the short form.
2. It’s an edgy, sharp wine with an unusual herbal flavour. You might say it’s a bit weird.
3. Whereas Chardonnay is carpet comfort, Sauv has the cold feeling of tiles?
4. The ratio of good to bad is higher in Sauvs than any other white wine.
5. Comes in a greater range of styles than you might think. I suggest you have a couple of styles on the go. Two Sauvs are better than one.
6. The Sancerre region in France is the ancestral home of Sauv but New Zealand is the current big player. Look for South Africa to move up the charts (shop Vintages for these).
7. Niagara Sauv is coming on well though in short supply.
8. Most Sauvs now come in screwcap to guarantee freshness. Always chill well.
9. Summer is Sauv’s season – seafood for sure. BBQ’d big fish too – tuna, swordfish and all the white meats. Favour fresh herbs over sweet sauces. Drink Sauv in its first or second year.
10. “A great way to start the end of the day.” (Quote of the back label of Fetzer Sauvignon Blanc)

RECOMMENDED SAUVIGNON BLANCS

party time
DURBANVILLE HILLS 06 Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa
22251 $13.15
A tropical fruit-style Sauv. With a solid hit of refreshment. Followed by lovely, salsa flavours. A Latin party feeling. Music, lights, tapas and fun times on the patio.

SAUVIGNON BLANC ALSO TASTED
Cave Spring 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Niagara (529933 $16.15) Lighthearted Sauv for everyday drinking – shades of Pinot Grigio. Good party drink. Peninsula Ridge 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Niagara (? $15.15) Lean, green Sauv for hot weather refreshment. A total rocker. Jackson-Triggs 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, B.C. (693111 $13.15) Leaner, greener and more cool-climate than previous vintages. But it does have nice ripe fruit flavours. Quite the yin yang experience. A shade too edgy now, but could some together by the year end. Obikwa 06 Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa (???????? ) is fruity, fresh and very gulpable. Perfect for summer parties. Wolf Blass 06 Sauvginon Blanc ‘Bilyara’, Australia (30809 $13.95) is tart and refreshing. An edge for sure. Good refresher but maybe a shade too green and plain. Wolf Blass 06 Sauvignon Blanc ‘Yellow Label’, Australia (611475 $15.15) Upbeat and refreshing. Some earthiness. A shade simple for the price. Coopers Creek ‘Cats Pee’ 06 Sauvingon Blanc, New Zealand (606384 $12.50) Mild Sauv flavour but lots of zest. Tart. Ideal daytime or early evening refresher. Best vintage so far for this wine. Santa Rita 06 Sauvignon Blanc ‘120’, Chile (23606 $9.65) is tangy dry with bold, herbaceous Sauv flavours. And a hint of sweetness. Manages to feel both interesting and plain. Could work for summer parties. Babich 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (620054 $16.15) Well-mannered, crowd-pleasing. Refreshing citrussy feeling and pleasant, slightly sweet fruitiness. Nice daytime or appetizer drink. Brancott 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (129528 $14.25) Assertive, live wire, tart, refreshing, and jolting. Perfect if you’re a fan. This needs a big thirst. A little goes a long way. Nobilo 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (55444 $16.05) is sort of generic. Has some vitality and edge, but appears dull in comparison to its cousins. Deakin Estate 06 Sauvignon Blanc, Australia (56083 $11.15) Lighthearted. Summer patio sipper. Lindemans 06 Sauvignon Blanc ‘Bin 95’, Australia (181388 $11.15) A spicy, lemony, slightly sweet edition of Sauv. It’s also quite zesty. A fun, lighthearted player. Party, party. And its low alcohol with a handy screwcap. One of the best party wines in the store. Rothschild 05 Sauvignon Blanc, VDP d’Oc, France (407536 $10.15) Zesty, but the flavour is weak and musty.

BILLY'S BEST BUYS IN DRY ROSÉ

MARQUES de CACERES 06 Rosé, Rioja, Spain 622142 $12.00
Freshness, flavour and richness. And all working really well together. And what gorgeous strawberry flavour. This has it all. The Spanish know how to Rosé. One of the year’s best – at any price.

TED the MULE 06 Rosé, Cotes du Rhone, France 622126 $11.15
Rich, fruity and friendly in the South of France style. Fun to sip on its own but really shines with food. Snacks or a main course. Great value.

BAD DOG 06 Rosé, VDP d’OC, France 621292 $11.70
Another good, fun label Rosé. Also in the rich South of France style. But also feels everyday. An ideal house wine. Good value too.

LAMBERTI 06 Bardolino Chiaretto, ‘Santepietre’, Italy 396572 $10.85
Gentle, pleasant refreshment. As it always is. Shades of Pinot Grigio in pink. Captures the summer patio feeling. Lunches, afternoon parties or weddings.

PENINSULA RIDGE 06 Cabernet Rosé, Niagara 8581 $15.15
Fruity refreshment with some flesh too. Good general purpose Rosé.

Rosés Also Tasted:
ANGELS GATE 06 Rosé, Niagara (49643 $10.95) Fruity, off-dry, patio sipper. • LA VIEILLE FERME 06 Rosé, Cotes du Ventoux (622134 $11.10) Good, but just a tad simple. Handy screwcap. • MOUTON CADET 06 Rosé, Bordeaux (40402 $11.95) flavourful, fresh and earthy. Needs food. • FRENCH FOLIES 06 Rosé (40410 $9.95) Dirty, musty. • CINSAULT AZZARO 06 Rosé, VDP d’OC, France (40378 $12.15) Tart and simple. • MASI 06 Rosato, ‘Modello’, Italy (587725 $11.00) lighthearted, slightly sweet. Okay for a hot day. • FOLONARI 06 Pink Pinot Grigio, Italy (43588 $11.95) Sweet, blush style.• BODEGAS ANADAS 06 Rosé ‘Care’ Spain (40386 $12.15) Over-the–top richness and flavours. • CASILLERO del DIABLO 06 Shiraz Rosé, Chile (39479 $12.15) Quite sweet. Needs spicy foods. • TRAPICHE 06 Rosé, Argentina (36426 $9.15) Semi-dry, fruity, getting close to blush. • YELLOW TAIL 06 Rosé, Australia (37606 $10.95) Super candy-sweet. • BLUE NUN PINK, Germany (640169 500ml/$7.15) Stinky, yuk! Worst of the bunch. • JACOB’S CREEK 06 Rosé, Australia (37622 $12.15) Pleasant but plain.

P.S. BRIGHT PINK N/V Rosé, Portugal (622159 $12.30) is old stock from last summer that has oxidized. I took my bottle (metal tube) back for a refund.

FIRST DRY ROSÉS of the season
The great advantage of liking dry rosé is that good bottles can be had for $10–$15. My first of the season was the delicious zesty, fruity, drink anytime 06 Henry of Pelham. The 06 Peninsula Ridge combines fresh fruitiness with some body for mealtimes. A good house style. Cave Spring’s 06 is simple and refreshing. A lighthearted gulper for hot afternoons. Another likeable local is the 06 Gamay Rosé from Reif. Off-dry and shades of a fruit punch – great for family gatherings.

Star of the season so far is Torres 06 ‘de Casta’ from Spain. It’s as good as it gets in the rich, Mediterranean-style. And what a value. Screwcap too.

HENRY of PELHAM 06 Dry Rosé, Niagara $12.15 613471
PENINSULA RIDGE 06 Rosé, Niagara $15.15 8581
CAVE SPRING 06 Rosé, Niagara $13.15 295006
REIF 06 GAMAY Rosé, Niagara $10.95 669366
TORRES 06 ‘DE CASTA’ Rosé, Spain $11.15 619916

MORE ROSÉS are recommended in the Vintages and travel section.