Billy Munnelly's LCBO Vintages Wine Recommendations


VINTAGES RECOMMENDATIONS May 2 March 14 February 28 February 14 January 31 January 17 January 10 December 6 November 22 November 8 October 25 October 11	Look for a revamp of billy's best bottles website soon. Your patience in the interm is appreciated. Thank you. Billy's Best Bottles Wines for 2009 is the perfect complement to all my Vintages picks. My book features over 300 great wine buys from Vintages Essentials and the General List, all available at your local LCBO. In book stores for only $19.95 – and cheaper if you buy multiple copies from me. More details here. There are eight major Vintages stores in the province, but most LCBOs carry a selection of Vintages items. At any time you can request your local LCBO to order in Vintages wines. A percentage of the stock is set aside for customers outside the Metropolitan areas. There's no guarantee you'll get the wine, but it's worth trying. Sláinte, BILLY MUNNELLY

VINTAGES March 2, 2009 THE LOW DOWN: Tuscany is the feature but I found the wines to be too New World and expensive. Welcome to the modern era in Tuscany! Not for me. My list is short but it contains a candidate for red wine value of the year in Santa Julia Cabernet from Argentina. The style is perfect for summer events. As are my two French Rosé picks. Southbrook Sauvignon is a wonderfully distinctive local expression. And I'm offering a Chablis for anyone up for adventure, if somewhat expensive. Enjoy! Billy

		RICH ROSÉ Vintages May 2 CH. VAL JOANIS 08 Syrah Rosé, Luberon, France 707281 $15.95 The pale and deceptively rich Provence-style dry Rosé. Delicate, pretty flavours and just enough freshness to carry the show. Rosé for a weekend lunch that might run into dinner.

		FRESH ROSÉ Vintages May 2 PIERRE SPARR Brut Rosé, Cremant d'Alsace, France 39016 $19.95 Bone dry Rosé with two great features. Super refreshing and the perfect partner to cut the richness in seafood. Shrimp or calamari on the deck!

		FRESH WHITE Vintages May 2 SOUTHBROOK 07 Sauvignon Blanc 'Triomphe', VQA Niagara 117556 $18.95 You gotta try this wonderful local expression of Sauvignon. Fresh, pungent and a little more earthy than most. Reminds me of traditional French wine that feels of a place rather than of fruits.Calls for food to complete the picture – such as a seafood appetizer or grilled chicken mains.

		RICH WHITE Vintages May 2 DOM. BERNARD DEFAIX 06 Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy, France 17541 $36.95 A very pure, delicate and elegant Chablis that will seduce you with French charm. And an opportunity to experience how Chablis differs from most other Chardonnays. And you must read the pretentious wine description in the LCBO catalogue (page 38)...too ridiculous for words.

		RUSTIC RED Vintages May 2 SANTA JULIA 07 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina 93781 $13.95 Invigorating Cab that hits a middle ground between gutsy and yummy. New World ripe flavours with the refreshing character of a Chianti. The perfect candidate – style and price – for your house summer BBQ red. Don't miss this one. P.S. Produced by the Zuccardi family, the creators of 'Fuzion' at regular LCBO stores.

VINTAGES March 14, 2009 THE LOW DOWN: Not a lot to recommend. But you can't go wrong buying Colio Sauvignon Blanc and Cotes du Rhône for summer drinking. And crowd pleasing doesn't get much better than with Bianchi Malbec. Rant! The two wines from Reif have unpleasant musty, dusty flavours. A quality I've found in many of their wines. Can't say for sure, but I think it's a cellar problem.

		WHITES Vintages March 14 COLIO 06 CEV Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Lake Erie North Shore, On 500462 $15.95 Style: FRESH WHITE Context/Mood: Early evening, aperitif, or any summer day. Comments: Good local expression of Sauvignon – mild on flavour but big on refreshment. Lip-smacking tarness suggest summer situations, and moderate alcohol allows for generous gulping.

		WHITES Vintages March 14 DANIEL LENKO 06 Unoaked Chardonnay, VQA, Niagara 91173 $19.95 Style: FRESH/RICH WHITE Context/Mood: Looking for something different. Comments: I love this because it's an odd ball. Expect some of the tart, green, mineral character of Chablis along with a distinct Ontario wildness. More challenging than yummy. Very old world and a very good contrasting partner for the sweetness in seafood or savoury white meat dishes.

		WHITES Vintages March 14 HILLEBRAND 07 Trius White, VQA, Niagara 54957 $18.95 Style: NICE/EASY WHITE Context/Mood: The mood for something new in refreshing whites. Comments: An exciting mix of tart refreshment and pretty flavours. The ying yang thing. Riesling zest meets Chardonnay flesh, meets Traminer's exotic flavours. Rock on. A wine with great fan and food appeal.

		REDS Vintages March 14 CASTEL OUALOU 07 Côtes du Rhône, France 104893 $13.95 Style: LIVELY Context/Mood: Red but not rich. Something upbeat and refreshing. Comments: Lively, juicy red for everyday gulping. Refreshing and fun. Red wine for white meats and early evening drinking. Get a case.

		REDS Vintages March 14 BECKETT'S FLAT 07 Cabernet/Shiraz 'Five Stones', Margaret River, Western Australia 58693 $19.95 (Kosher) Style: RUSTIC RED Context/Mood: A red that's solid but not serious nor weighty. Comments: Cool climate Aussie red with the vitality and brightness of a Niagara Cab Franc. Food wine that can cover a lot of bases.

		REDS Vintages March 14 FAMIGLIA BIANCHI 06 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina 677559 $16.95 Style: RICH RED Context/Mood: Seduction. Comments: Here's my crowd pleaser pick, and it could be one of the best of the year. Rich, with yummy, plummy flavours and lushness. But it's also lively and upbeat. This doll can dance! Bianchi is one of my favourite new world wineries.

		IRISH WHISKEY! Vintages March 14 A good thing happened to Irish whiskey two decades ago with the opening of Cooley distillery. Nearly all the business had fallen into the hands of conglomerates who were crafting for the mass market, but Cooley restored individuality to Irish Whiskey, and combined it with very clever marketing. Their whiskeys have place names that are steeped in Irish lore – the drinker feels a connection to a place and history. Cooley’s ‘The Tyrconnell’ Single Malt has a lovely honey malt nose and a wholesome ‘juice of the barley’ taste and feeling. Flavourful and friendly in the style of Viognier wine. Tyrconnell was the last Gaelic sovereignty in Ireland ending around 1600. The name was later given to a racehorse – hence the label. Cooley’s ‘Connemara’ Peated Single Malt has salty, seaweed flavours that create a sense of the ocean, along with smoky, sexy smells of peat. Shades of a peaty Scotch. Late night, contemplative whiskey. Connemara is a windswept outpost on the west coast of Ireland much celebrated for all things Gaelic, and rock star mansions. COOLEY’S ‘The Tyrconnell’ Single Malt, Ireland 402396 $52.95 (Vintages) COOLEY’S ‘Connemara’ Peated Single Malt, Ireland 27946 $63.95 (Vintages)

VINTAGES February 28, 2009 THE LOW DOWN: Get out to this one. It’s a great opportunity to buy some wonderful wines in the under-twenty-dollar range. Soulful reds from the south of France, a local hero and a real crowd-pleaser from Argentina. Outstanding Viognier and Sauv Blanc in the whites along with something different from Portugal and Italy.

	WHITES Vintages February 28 SOGEVINUS 07 Douro ‘Divinica’, Douro, Portugal 94904 $15.95 Style: FRESH Context/Mood: The mood for something new in refreshing whites. Comments: Citrussy with herbaceous, Sauv Blanc-style flaovurs. Refreshing and interesting – the joy of something different. A must try. Summer nights on the patio with shrimp.

		WHITES Vintages February 28 MARCHETTI 07 Verdicchio, Marche, Italy 104869 $15.95 12.9% Style: FRESH Context/Mood: Summer thirstquencher. A new experience. Comments: Super-refreshing with quite the sharp tang. Bracing spring day feeling. Cocktail or lunch wine for the patio season.

		WHITES Vintages February 28 COMPOSITE 07 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, N.Z. 96693 $19.95 Style: FRESH Context/Mood: To kick off the dinner party. Comments: Very pure, elegant edition of Sauv Blanc. Lean, lively and lovely. Could be French. Aperitif or seafood partner. Jazzy contemporary package.

		WHITES Vintages February 28 AJELLO 07 'Majus' Grillo/Catarratto, Sicily 670844 $16.95 Style: RICH Context/Mood: A rich white that’s not Chardonnay. Comments: Boldly fresh and boldly rich. Lively and seductive. A charmer. Bring on the BBQ season with well-seasoned chicken, pork or seafood.

		WHITES Vintages February 28 LAURENT MIQUEL 07 Viognier ‘Nord Sud’, VDP D’OC, France 673236 $17.95 13.5% Style: RICHISH Context/Mood: A treat. Get the wine, maybe some new clothes and feel like a prince/princess. Context/Mood: A treat. Get the wine, maybe some new clothes and feel like a prince/princess. Comments: The pretty, luxurious feeling of Chardonnay but with more zip. Sports car over Cadillac. Drake Hotel over the Royal York. The perfect all-evening white. Well, at least the first hour. P.S. Laurent Miquel is a high altitude winery with cool nights so all their wines have a bright, elegant feeling.

		REDS Vintages February 28 INNISKILLIN 06 Meritage ‘Reserve Series’, Niagara 91132 $17.95 Style: SEMI-RICH Context/Mood: Comfort foods, but dress things up a notch. Comments: Lovely, lush charmer. Built for comfort. Expect new world, easy drinking style, along with a Tuscan, rustic feeling. Lots to like.

		REDS Vintages February 28 OSOYOOS LAROSE 05 Le Grand Vin, Okanagan Valley, B.C. 626325 $44.95 Style: RICH Context/Mood: Big events. Something special. Comments: A bit serious in style and price but will work for fans of Bordeaux and manly reds. Needs the beef. Could be aged another year or two.

		REDS Vintages February 28 SKALLI 07 Côtes du Rhône ‘Caves Saint-Pierre’, France 103622 $14.95 Style: RICH Context/Mood: Lighthearted times. Lively company and foods with hot sauce. Comments: Joy in a bottle. Juicy, yummy, fun stuff that feels like it’s dancing in the glass. Rich meets lively. Beaujolais on steroids! I think this might be my summer house red – lightly chilled of course.

		REDS Vintages February 28 CAZES 05 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages ‘L’Excellence de Triniac’, France 103689 $16.95 Style: RICH Context/Mood: Hearty supper with soulful company. The mood for wine with deep feelings. Comments: Warmhearted, comforting but also earthy and solid. Very real. Gives a lot while staying mysterious – the south of France way.

		REDS Vintages February 28 ABBAYE de Sylva Plana 05 Faugères ‘La Closeraie’, France 104737 $19.95 Style: RICH Context/Mood: Hearty supper with soulful company. The mood for wine with deep feelings. Comments: Another classic south of France red: nourishing, heartwarming, spicy flavours balanced with a rustic edge and lots of vigour. My kind of rich red. A mini Chateauneuf.

		REDS Vintages February 28 CAMPLAZENS 06 Syrah, VDP d’Oc, France 104752 $14.95 Style: RUSTIC Context/Mood: The first red of the evening. Comments: Dry and tart with classic Syrah white pepper flavour. Invigorating, challenging red in the Barbera style.

		REDS Vintages February 28 PAUL DOLAN 06 Zinfandel, Mendocino, California 46342 $21.95 Style: RICH Context/Mood: Looking for a rich red that won’t smother you. Comments: Quite rich and yummy with delicious bright flavours. Feels lively for a rich red. Charming too. And it’s organic. Get some.

		REDS Vintages February 28 VINA COBOS ‘Felino’ 07 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 118067 $19.95 Style: RICH Context/Mood: : Relaxing by the fireside. Seducing someone. Entertaining someone who doesn’t like wine. Comments: Super rich, smooth, plumy-sweet and all things nice. Michael Buble-style. A crowd-pleaser.

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VINTAGES February 14, 2009 THE LOW DOWN: Lots of mediocre Valentine picks. But as ever, ten percent of the catalogue is excellent. Please explore my South African picks as they deliver that something different experience at a reasonable price. The reds may light your fire on icy cold February nights. My two picks for a Valentine’s dinner are a Loire Sparkling Rosé and a Cru Beaujolais. Or just go to bed with a bottle of the highly seductive Clos Jordanne Chardonnay. Rant: The inside back cover of the catalogue features a Barbera wine with comments such as ‘magnificently rich and full of flavour’, ‘substantial’, luxurious new oak flavours’ and ‘elegance’. Barbera is a frank, rustic, gutsy, everyday wine that the natives of Piedmont enjoy with everyday meals – but producers such as this one are changing the nature of the wine so it’s more appealing to the North American palate. Richer, smoother and instantly gratifying. Another edition of Merlot. Just what we need!

	DRY SPARKLING Vintages February 14 crowd-pleaser GRAHAM BECK BRUT, South Africa 593483 $18.95 Fresh, fruity, toasty, fun. The people’s sparkling! There isn’t a more crowd-pleasing $20 sparkling on the planet. Aperitif, celebrations or whenever.

	DRY SPARKLING Vintages February 14 refreshing and fun LANGLOIS-CHATEAU Brut Rosé, Loire, France 92940 $21.95 Dry sparkling that refreshes with hints of strawberry fruit. And a sense of fun. For Valentine’s – and stock up for summer parties.

	RICH WHITE Vintages February 14 moderate DELHEIM 07 Chardonnay ‘Sur Lie’, South Africa 956219 $17.95 Novel Chardonnay that manages to be interesting without the usual rich and flashy show. Starts out low-keyed but grows with each sip. Really good food partner.

	RICH WHITE Vintages February 14 blockbuster LE CLOS JORDANNE 06 Chardonnay ‘Claystone Vineyard’, Niagara 56929 $40 Blockbuster Chard with the intensity of good Cognac. A glam show to be enjoyed sip by sip. Equally good before and after.

	LIVELY RED Vintages February 14 earthy DOM. DES MOLINS 07 Morgan, Cru Beaujolais, France 108258 $18.95 The bright, exuberant character of Beaujolais along with some earthy feelings. Shades of Pinot Noir. Fun to gulp before and with food. Classic partner for an herb-roasted chicken. A Valentine’s consideration.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages February 14 hearty HENRY OF PELHAM 06 Merlot, Niagara 91165 $19.95 Rustic meets rich. Bold with BBQ flavours – more hearty than most Merlots. Wine for cold nights.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages February 14 smokey KWV 08 Pinotage ‘Café Culture’, South Africa 72710 $13.95 Lively, spicy, smokey and spirited. South African Beaujolais. Gulp with burgers or ribs. P.S. Pinotage is S.A.’s quirky red – similar to our Baco Noir. Not an instant friend but might grow on you.

	RICH RED Vintages February 14 crowd-pleasing BODEGAS MARTIN CODAX 06 ‘Cautro Pasos’, Bierzo, Spain 39313 $16.95 Plummy rich in the Merlot style. Lots of warmth and spicy. Cuddly red.

	RICH RED Vintages February 14 hearty TULBAGH MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS TMW 05 Viktoria, South Africa 98095 $19.95 South Africa’s answer to Aussie Shiraz. Big, bold, hearty, macho. But there’s an element of charm and sexiness too. Sort of perfect (I’m serious!).

	RICH RED Vintages February 14 lush GRAHAM BECK 03 Syrah ‘The Ridge’, South Africa 607812 $25.95 Shades of Chateauneuf – lush and seductive. Port-like ripeness and richness. A late evening sipper.
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VINTAGES January 31, 2009 THE LOW DOWN: I’ve always focused my Vintages picks on wines that are interesting. An opportunity to experience, to taste ‘characters’ as opposed to nice wines. To have new experiences. Vintages offers a great opportunity for wine ‘education’ and starting with this review I’m offering a selections of wines under that category. Buy them, taste them with friends and give me your feedback. This release features wines that critics have scored 90+. Wines ranked as superior, outstanding and worth the $20 to $65 price tag. I don’t buy into this ranking system because it ignores context, and favours richness and smoothness in wines. For an example of this slant try Clos de Sixte, Lirac on page nine of the catalogue (#76349 $26.95). It’s highly ranked by America’s most powerful critic, Robert Parker who loves wines with Port-like richness – even if they have no personality. Inniskillin has always done well with Riesling and Cabernet Franc – check out my recommendations. Enjoy! Billy

A WINE EXPERIENCE A trio of Mediterranean Whites – alternatives to Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon. These wines bridge the refreshment and the easy drinking experience. The feeling is summer patio with a platter of seafood appetizers. Plan for summer.

	KIR-YIANNI ‘Petra’ 07, Greece 63552 $14.95 Produced from the indigenous Greek gape Roditis, this is an enjoyable hit of freshness and savoury, fruity flavours. Everyday nice meets refreshment. A trip to a Mediterranean café. Get a few bottles for the summer patio and you’ll thank me.

	ARGIOLAS 07 ‘Costamolino’, Vermentino, Sardinia 101196 $16.95 Vermentino is another indigenous grape – wine with savoury, Mediterranean hillside flavours and feelings. A little refreshment, a little richness and lots of drinkability.

	CARRASVINAS 07 Verdejo, Rueda, Spain 82073 $14.95 The Verdejo grape is Spain’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc. Tart, herbaceous and invigorating. But less assertive and more everyday. Has the Aussie Semillon feeling – good at flattering food.

	FRESH WHITE Vintages January 31 INNISKILLIN 07 Riesling ‘Two Vineyards’, Niagara 105387 $17.95 Lemony tartness with just a trace of sweetness. Super-refreshing and palate-teasing – the wonder of Riesling. Aperitif, or buy for summer patio lunches.

	RICH RED Vintages January 31 Go wild ERRAZURIZ 07 Pinot Noir ‘Wild Ferment’, Chile 510396 $19.95 Wild ferment refers to the use of natural yeast on the grape skins (and airborne yeasts in the cellar) for the fermentation. The result is a wine with some funkiness. An earthy realness seldom found in modern ‘pristine’ winemaking. Think Pinot sexiness with an edge. Johnny Depp with a stubble.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages January 31 Local expression INNISKILLIN 06 Cabernet Franc ‘Reserve Series’, Niagara 91140 $18.75 Ontario does France. Here’s a local wine that would be perfectly at home in a French Bistro because it feels earthy, rustic and real. Forget niceness – this is about stimulating the palate and creating lively times. The original purpose of wine. Cook something bistro-ish, invite interesting people and let it happen. Bravo Inniskillin.

	RICH RED Vintages January 31 Taste a place PERRIN 06 Rasteau ‘L’Andéol’, Rhône, France 976845 $19.95 Vigour, flavour, richness, and a hit of traditional wine mystery. Feels connected to a place and the need for a hearty meal. Explore the possibilities.

	RICH RED Vintages January 31 Value buy CHAKANA 07 Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentina 663161 $13.95 Gutsy, rich and earthy. A great everyday winter red. Burgers, steak or hearty pasta.
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VINTAGES January 17, 2009 THE LOW DOWN: Argentina is the feature and there's lots of hefty, plummy, rich reds on offer. High-alcohol, port-like wines that are not too far removed from the blockbuster reds of Chile and Australia. Argentina does have its own identity, but it's not ringing clear in this group. I'm recommending just one white and red. French and Italian wines have never been better and this release provides an opportunity to experience really good Graves (white Bordeaux), Fleurie (Cru Beaujolais), Côtes du Rhône, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Valpolicella. Gruner Veltliner for Austria and a great value South African Syrah round out my picks.

	FRESH WHITE Vintages January 17 LAURENZ 07 Gruner Veltliner 'Sophie Singing', Austria 87627 $18.95 Very pure, crisp dry white with a bracing spring day feeling. Buy for summer. Handy screwcap, moderate alcohol and a fun package.

	FRESH WHITE Vintages January 17 CH. BRONDELLE 07 Graves, Bordeaux, France 626507 $18.95 Bordeaux whites are a blend of Sauvignon and Semillon grapes so they are both refreshing and food worthy. Certainly a good choice for aperitif followed by seafood appetizers. This is the best example I've tasted in decades and a great buy period. New World whites look out. Vive la France.

	FRESH WHITE Vintages January 17 PAUL DOLAN 07 Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino, California 46334 $18.95 Paul Dolan pioneered the organic movement at Fetzer and now he's doing his own thing. This wine combines refreshment with Californian fruitiness and drinkability. It’s tangy dry with an earthy, rustic quality. An excellent seafood partner. Organic.

	EVERYDAY EASY WHITE Vintages January 17 J&F LURTON 2007 Flor de Torrontés, Mendoza, Argentina 55475 $13.95 Very pretty, spicy Muscat-style white. Feels a little sweet (think Gewurztraminer). Would be a hit at family events, or for social sipping. Fun stuff to have open in the fridge.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages January 17 FUMANELLI 06 Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 687186 $14.95 You'll not find a purer expression of rustic red wine. Grabs and teases the palate, and sets you up for supper. Valpolicella is the Italian edition of Beaujolais – everyday red for a lively mood.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages January 17 DOM. PARDON 06 Fleurie, Beaujolais, France 85001 $20.95 Cru Beaujolais with the character and feeling of a Pinot. Lots of earthy, peppery, rustic stuff and a traditional wine feeling. Bold and invigorating – take me to the dinner table. An herb-roasted chicken would be dandy.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages January 17 TRAVAGLINI 05 Nebbiolo, Coste della Sesia, Piedmont, Italy 30353 $17.95 A mini-Borolo at a bargain price. Pale coloured, with a mature, faded elegance feeling. Sip with the cheese course, or by the fire.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages January 17 CASTELLO di NEIVE 05 Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 674044 $23.95 Lots of vigour with some seductive Pinot Noir character. Johnny Depp with a stuble! Go-for-the-gusto wine.

	RICH RED Vintages January 17 DOM. de la CROZE GRANIER 06 Côtes du Rhone, France 736371 $15.95 Solid, rich, earthy, nourishing. For hearty winter dinners.

	RICH RED Vintages January 17 PERRIN & FILS 06 Vinsobres 'Les Cornuds', Cotes du Rhone-Villages, France 566844 $18.95 Silky, spicy/sweet and charming. Instant feel good wine. Lovely winter warmth. I'd put this head-to-head with Shiraz.

RICH RED Vintages January 17 BRADGATE 05 Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa 80176 $13.95 Smooth, silky, peppery Syrah at a bargain price. Good mix of niceness and character. Move over Yellow Tail. Or Fuzion.

	RICH RED Vintages January 17 CLOS de LOS SIETE 2007, Mendoza, Argentina 622571 $23.95 Argentina meets Bordeaux. New World richness combined with a dry, austere French feeling. Michel Rolland, a French wine consultant, created this brand out of a partnership with ‘Siete’ other growers. Think of an upscale Mouton Cadet – wine for beef..

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VINTAGES January 10. 2009 THE LOW DOWN: It’s a 4x4 release! Four really good value-priced winter reds, and four other wines to buy for summer events. A nourishing Rhone and an Amarone complete my picks.

	SEMI-DRY WHITE Vintages January 10 Moselland 05 ‘Insignium’ Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 72355 $13.95 Gorgeous semi-dry sipper. Very low alcohol with wonderful, exotic Riesling flavours and freshness. Instant joy. Summer afternoon sipper.

	RICH WHITE Vintages January 10 Cristobal 08 Verdelho, Argentina 81182 $14.95 Mix of herbaceous/exotic flavours and citrus zest. Combines tartness and richness – hence lots of uses. Excellent BBQ white.

	LIVELY RED Vintages January 10 Malivoire 06 Gamay, Niagara 591313 $17.00 Bright Gamay flavours along with a tangy, rustic feeling. Backwoods Beaujolais! One of my favourite local reds. Chicken or pork roast, fresh herbs – and life is good. Will really hit the spot in summer. Lightly chill.

	LIVELY RED Vintages January 10 De Bortoli 07 Pinot Noir ‘Gulf Station’, Australia 15511 $19.95 Yummy, spicy-sweet Pinot in the New World style. Good with everything. Even food. Lightly chill. I’m stocking up for summer parties.

Vintages January 10 WINTER HOUSE RICH REDS – $14.95

	WINTER HOUSE RICH REDS – $14.95 1. Parducci 05 Petite Sirah, California 75598 $14.95 Honest country feeling – atypical Californian. More earthy than lush. Really good everyday rich red. Parducci was one of the pioneers of the Californian wine industry and has remained focused on value in keeping with the family’s Italian roots.

	WINTER HOUSE RICH REDS – $14.95 2. Dom. des Aspes 05 Merlot, VDP d’Oc, France 951665 $14.95 Solid, mid-range red combining modern richness with traditional vigour. Ideal winter house red.

	WINTER HOUSE RICH REDS – $14.95 3. Quinta dos Roques 05 Dao, Portugal 986075 $14.95 Gutsy, rustic wine for hearty meals. Lots of Italian-style vigour.

	WINTER HOUSE RICH REDS – $14.95 4. The Ruins 06 Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon, South Africa 18739 $14.95 Lush, rich, charming. But not over the top. Have with grilled meats. Organic.

	RICH Red – Nourishing Benoit & Frederic Lavau 07 Vacqueyras, Rhone, France 104927 $20.95 Rich with lovely peppery flavours and a warm, nourishing feeling. There’s also a rustic edge. Rhone at its best.

	RICH Red – Crowd-pleasing Albada 05 Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain 93005 $15.95 Super rich, super vanilla sweet, super crowd-pleasing.

	RICH Red – Nourishing Due Torri 05 Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 724740 $36.95 Amarone crafted for the dinner table – not too rich nor ripe. And there’s a gutsy, earthy character to stimulate the appetite.


VINTAGES December 6, 2008 THE LOW DOWN: Most of my picks are not cheap but the following is a wonderful Holiday shopping list. Enjoy.

	DRY SPARKLING Vintages December 6 CHARLES HEIDSIECK Reserve Brut Champagne, France 36962 $59.95 Always the most delicious. A lush, lovely charmer. Sip on its own.

	DRY SPARKLING Vintages December 6 HENRY of PELHAM Cuvee Catharine Brut, Niagara 616441 $29.95 Gets better every time I taste it. In the bone-dry Champagne style. Excellent aperitif.

	DRY SPARKLING Vintages December 6 ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Sparkling, California 294181 $28.95 Austere Champagne styling but with a shade more richness and ripeness. Good value. Equally good for aperitif or New Year sloshing.

	RICH WHITE Vintages December 6 LE CLOS JORDANNE 06 Chardonnay 'Village Reserve', Niagara 33936 $30.00 Bold flavours along with great vitality and vigour. Very impressive and very complete. Enjoy with grilled food. Over the next two years.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages December 6 LE CLOS JORDANNE 06 Pinot Noir 'Village Reserve', Niagara 33894 $30.00 Lively with my favourite combination of bright and earthy flavours. And a little mystery. Semi-rich and very charming. Could change your thinking about local wines.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages December 6 TAWSE 06 Pinot Noir, Niagara 54809 $32.20 Here's a wine for those who like the farmyard, rustic quality in red Burgundy. Lots of character. Another excellent local.

	RICH RED Vintages December 6 HENRY of PELHAM 05 Reserve Cabernet/Merlot, Niagara 395855 $29.95 Ripe and rich with appealing spicy / sweetness. Has great confidence and the glow of a wine in its prime. Would be very satisfying on a winter evening.

	LIVELY RED Vintages December 6HUNTER'S 07 Pinot Noir, New Zealand 586115 $20.95 A bright, juicy, exuberant, spicy/sweet Pinot in the New World style. Very pretty and very gulpable. If you're not recession restricted I highly recommend getting a case for next summer's parties.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages December 6 CH. SEGUE LONGUE MONNIER 05 Medoc, Bordeaux, France 87700 $24.95 A very good traditional French bistro red. Gutsy and rustic, very together and with a strong sense of place. A refreshing change from niceness and smoothness.

	RICH RED Vintages December 6 SEGHESIO 04 Barolo 'Vigneto La Villa', Piedmont, Italy 96800 $64.95 Despite its lofty reputation good Barolo is hard to find. But this delivers the magical earthy, elusive, mysterious, otherworld character I expect of this red. A great winter drink.

	RICH RED Vintages December 6 ZONIN 05 Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 86207 $54.95 I'm a big fan of Zonin wines because they are never forced. Whereas many Amarones are spoiled by flavours that are too cooked, raisiny or ripe this is a joyful rich red. A natural talent. Great drinkability. Be warned.

P.S. Just in case you're tempted, I found TORBRECK 'RUN RIG' 04, Barossa, Australia (#997874 $274.95) to be nothing more than an upscale version of fifteen dollar Aussie Shiraz. Lots of glitz, heft, and smoothness but there's nothing interesting or magical. A Vegas wine.

PORT Vintages December 6 GRAHAM'S Crusted Port, Portugal 726828 $32.95 Crusted is similar to Vintage but a lot less expensive. This is dense, powerful, mysterious and sure to inspire higher thinking. Needs decanting.


VINTAGES November 22, 2008 THE LOW DOWN: Very disappointing release. A lot of high priced wines that are either 'nice but boring' or faded. But I did enjoy a few of the fancy offerings and a few others besides.

	FRESH WHITE Vintages November 22 FLAT ROCK 07 Riesling 'Nadja's Vineyard, Niagara 578625 $19.95 Classic dry Riesling. Tart, nervy and invigorating.

	FRESH WHITE Vintages November 22CLOUDY BAY 07 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand 304469 $33.95 Very pure, austere. In the classic Sancerre style. Cloudy Bay is back on form. Upscale aperitif.

	RICH WHITE Vintages November 22 NICK FALDO 05 Chardonnay, Coonawarra, Australia 90936 $18.95 Rich Chard with lemony freshness. Good mix of experiences – fresh enough for early on, lush enough for later.

	RICH RED Vintages November 22 DOM. TAUPENOT-MERME 05 Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy 87023 $66.95 Gevery is a man's Pinot – deep earthy flavours and lots of vigour. All of life's challenges and accomplishments in a glass.

	RICH RED Vintages November 22 JUAN GIL 06 Jumilla, Spain 13656 $16.95 Lush, smooth, spicy, seductive.Crowd-pleaser of the release.

	RICH RED Vintages November 22CORDERO DI MONTEZEMOLO 04 Barolo Monfalletto, Italy 707354 $51.95 Very appealing mellow mature feeling. Thought provoking stuff to sip after dinner, or with cheese. A fireside would complete the picture.

	DRY ROSÉ Vintages November 22 BONNY DOON 07 Vin Gris de Cigar Rosé, California 707018 $19.95 Rich, Provence-style Rosé. Characterful and charming. Dry Rosé is a perfect partner for Holiday events and the big bird.

	PORT Vintages November 22 QUINTA VALE D. MARIA 02 Vintage Port, Portugal 87585 $64.95 Super rich, concentrated with spicy/sweet flavours. More heft than seduction.

VINTAGES November 8, 2008 THE LOW DOWN: Lots of close calls but my final list of recommendations is very short. Please ignore my favourable comment (page 35 in the catalogue) on Inniskillin's Pinot Noir. This wine has seriously faded over the past year. Most local Pinots are short lived.

	RUSTIC REDS Vintages November 8 CH. TOUR HAUT VIGNOBLE 05 St-Estephe, Bordeaux 87742 $25.95 CH. HAUCHAT LA ROSÉ 04 Fronsac, Bordeaux 86611 $23.95 Both of these are classic french bistro reds. Earthy, dusty dry and invigorating. They have a strong sense of place and great talent for flattering food – such as grilled or roasted meats. This tradition wine-style will be too dry for the shiraz drinker.


P.S. The 'Wine of the month', CH de L'ESTANG, Bordeaux, is hollow and faded. And the other hyped Bordeaux, Ch. DUCLA is soft, simple and boring.

	RICH RED Vintages November 8 'LA BASCULA' 05 Monastrell/Syrah, Jumilla, Spain 82123 $15.95 Super rich with big spicy sweet flavours – very New World. A winter warmer.

RICH RED Vintages November 8 DONA PAULA 06 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 661819 $16.95 Crowdpleaser of the release. Port-like richness and sweetness.

	RICH RED Vintages November 8 JACKSON-TRIGGS 05 Delaine Vineyard Syrah, Niagara 86553 $29.95 Crafted in the Rhone style – deep, earthy, mysterious. Lots of character. Wonderful stuff that could change your thinking about local wine.

	RICH RED Vintages November 8 COUDELET de BEAUCASTEL 06, Cotes du Rhone, France 48884 $30.95 This vineyard sits on the border of Chateauneuf-du-Pape so expect a similar style. Maybe nor super big and exotic, but quite the seductive show for the price.
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VINTAGES October 25, 2008 Note: Nice presentation on Amarone in the catalogue, but I'd not pay $50 for any of the wines.

	RUSTIC WHITE Vintages October 25 CONTI CARELLO 06 Soave, Veneto, Italy 85514 $17.95 Old-style white with savoury, earthy flavours. Takes you to a café on the Mediterranean. You're having an herb roasted chicken and the wine is speaking Italian.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages October 25 DOM. BERNARD BAUDRY 06 Chinon, Loire, France 940783 $19.95 It doesn't get more French country than this gutsy, rustic Cabernet Franc. Dry, challenging and engaging. Needs hearty fare.

	RICH RED Vintages October 25 TEDESCHI 06 Valpolicella Ripasso 'Capitel dei Nicalo', Veneto, Italy 984997 $18.95 Lots of vigour, lots of flavour and a rustic meets rich feeling. I really like the bright quality of the fruit. Tedeschi always delivers. Enjoy with any winter food.

	RICH RED Vintages October 25 KWV CATHEDRAL CELLARS 04 Shiraz, South Africa 561142 $16.95 Super rich with spicy/sweetness – warmhearted for sure. But there's also a tangy edge. More than just nice. Good partner for hearty dinners. And a great value in rich reds. KWV is good at value.

	DRY SHERRY Vintages October 25 GONZALEZ BYASS Palo Cortado Viejo 'Apostoles', 30-Year-Old Sherry, Spain 969527 $33.95/375ml
	GONZALEZ BYASS Amontillado Viejo 'Apostoles', 30-Year-Old Sherry, Spain 694331 $33.95/375ml You'll be amazed, even if you're not a Sherry fan. Mind blowing flavours. The Palo Cortado is earthy and the Amontillado rewrites the book on dryness. Wines to sip and contemplate – no food, no friends. A little will go a long way. Lightly chill and keep the open bottle in the fridge.

	PORT Vintages October 25 QUINTA do VALLADO 10-Year-Old Tawny Port, Portugal 83592 $37.95 The lovely mellow quality of Tawny with more dryness than usual. Mid afternoon or late evening drink.
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VINTAGES October 11, 2008 THE LOW DOWN: The following are all excellent examples of their type – wines with personality. That's the whole point of shopping at Vintages. You could have a lovely little wine education evening with friends if you bought a bunch of these wines. P.S. You're on your own with all the Aussie stuff. Nothing appealed to me.

	Semi-dry SIPPIER Vintages October 11 REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT 98 Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 940809 $20.95 The German Riesling experience of huge flavours set in a delicate, low alcohol wine. Gorgeous Sunday afternoon sipper. Shows how well Riesling ages.

	LIVELY RED Vintages October 11 DOM. LARGE 06 Cote-de-Brouilly, Beaujolais, France 742585 $16.95 If this delicious Beaujolais does not charm you there must be something bad in your life right now. Not unlike a Pinot. Lightly chill.

	LIVELY RED Vintages October 11 FONTANAFREDDA 07 BARBERA 'Briccotondo', Italy 72348 $15.95 The usually tart Barbera with an extra shot of flavour. Spunky, juicy, vibrant. Welcome to Italy.

	RUSTIC RED Vintages October 11 CH. MAZERIS 05 CANON-FRONSAC, Bordeaux, France 86330 $27.95 Hearty, gutsy, rustic. The most 'real' Bordeaux I've tasted in a long time. Lots of earth, lots of structure, and the stuff that gets you thinking. Thinking wines are rare these days.

	RICH RED Vintages October 11 LUIGI RIGHETTI 06 VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO 'Campolieti', Italy 695890 $18.95 For the rich, warmhearted Italian experience get this charmer. Would be equally good with pasta or steak.

	RICH RED Vintages October 11 MARQUES de VITORIA 04 Rioja, Spain 678045 $18.95 Silky, spicy/sweet and seductive. The Rioja way. Be warned.

	RICH RED Vintages October 11 RUST en VREDE 05 MERLOT, Stellenbosch, South Africa 68759 $18.95 Big hearty, earthy edition of Merlot. Manly wine for sure. Winter dinner with a roast.

	SWEET WINE Vintages October 11 CH. CANTREGIL 01 SAUTERNES, Bordeaux 86454 $56.95 The magical honey sweetness – and lots more, character of Sauternes. At a fair price. Liquid gold. I'll squeeze a week of glorious night caps out of this bottle. Keep refrigerated.

	SCOTCH Vintages October 11 The BALVENIE 17 years-old Sherry Oak Highland Single Malt, Scotland 70714 $129.95 Powerful, intriguing – and lingering forever. Scotch doesn't get much better.
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