We are looking to define what makes a restaurant 'great' as part of the hospitality symposium 'Terroir' this March 2009.

*What makes a restaurant great?* We are looking for your best dining experiences of 2008. Please tell us what made them so memorable - extraordinarily good food, outstanding service, amazing atmosphere or was the hospitality 100% there? A great experience can come from anywhere; a family style diner down the street, a high end restaurant or the trendiest place everyone is talking about. Which restaurants have given you a exceptional experience and what makes you keep going back for more?

*Let’s not be shy here, tell us who wowed you and how much you spent on the meal.*

Email Kato or Billy with your comments and stories.

WOW WINES
Here’s ten locals that I’d take to my hideaway island.

CHATEAU des CHARMES St. Davids Bench 06 Viognier ($26) – stylish, exotic but in a less is more way. The feeling is spring-like and the flavours are delicate and teasing. Quite hard to describe which is part of its appeal

THIRTY BENCH 07 Riesling Small Lot ‘Triangle Vineyard’ 07 ($30) – steely, elegant and superb. Thirty Bench has some of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Niagara.

MALIVOIRE 06 Gamay ($16.80) – couldn’t be livelier or brighter – so much fun to gulp. There’s nothing like it on the planet. A true local.

TAWSE understated 06 Pinot Noir ($32) would not be out of place in a French restaurant. Lean but characterful.

Another nothing like it in the world wines is  SANDSTONE 06 Gamay ($25). Shades of something from the backroads of Italy.

Ann Sperling’s SOUTHBROOK 06 Syrah, Lot 19  ‘Whimsy’ ($28) has deep, peppery flavours and Pinot-style grace and drinkability. I’d put this forward as a role model for Niagara reds.

HILLEBRAND’S Trius Red line has taken a huge leap forward, not only in quality but in local expression. The Trius 05 Cab Franc ($16) has wonderful flavours, vitality and drinkabilty while the 07 Trius Merlot ($16) combines sweet fruit with a tangy, rustic character. Lots of gusto and very local. The 06 Trius Red ($20) offers more complexity but still keeps Niagara’s hallmark – vitality. Hats off to Aussie winemaker Darryl Brooker for raising the quality and crafting truly local wines.

FIELDING 06 Syrah ($27) is another star of this vintage. French-style wine with emphasis on charm.

The LAILEY family were one of the first to plant along the Niagara river and they produce food friendly wines in the mid weight and price range. Such as the characterful 06 Cabernet/Syrah ($25).

INNOVATION AT LAST
Tight regulations around marketing and promotion limit innovation in wine. But a clever idea has gotten through. A single-glass-size bottle of wine with its own glass mounted on top is the creation of Aussie producer Hardys. A bonus being the contents are Hardys ‘Nottage Hill’ wines, which are recommended in my 09 book.

HARDYS ‘Nottage Hill’ Chardonnay ‘Shuttle’ 283457 250ml/$4.95
HARDYS ‘Nottage Hill’ Shiraz ‘Shuttle’ 375964 250ml/$5.95

THE MOST IMPROVED WINE COUNTRY
Canada would qualify but I want to talk about somewhere that’s a much bigger player. And which once ruled the wine world. Naturally it’s FRANCE.

France has always operated a two tier system with its wines. Really good expensive stuff and not very reliable everyday wines. The fancy stuff created the reputation, which helped sell the lesser wines. In the 1980s and 90s the low priced French wines really declined in quality and millions of people stopped buying.

Another reason for not buying French was the arrival of delicious, inexpensive wines from other places such as California and Australia. But guess what, another cycle is unfolding – everyday French wine is much improved as producers struggle for survival. And they’re cutting prices in hope of winning back customers. Good quality at low prices. How can you resist.

Before you dash off to the store let’s make sure you understand French wine. It’s more reserved – less flashy than your favourite Aussie, and it offers character as opposed to gushy niceness. But maybe you’re tired of nice wines?

Check out these examples of the new improved France.

1. BRINGING BACK the OLD RULE
Before Australia monopolized the wine world these was a golden rule for novice drinkers, ‘you cannot go wrong with Cotes du Rhone’. The reason being this wine is friendly, has great drinkability, and is affordable. Every restaurant used to carry it, and it matched well with white or red meat. I’d like to bring back the rule because it’s even more true today. The quality and value has never been better.

LIGHT STYLE RHÔNES
Mommessin 06 Côtes du Rhône ‘Les Epices’, France 14829 $11.20
Louis Bernard 06 Côtes du Rhône, France 581645 $11.85

SEMI–RICH STYLE RHONES
Louis Bernard 06 Côtes du Rhvne Villages, France 391458 $12.95
Cave La Romaine 06 Côtes du Rhône-Villages , France 28779 $12.65

2. MORE on THE RHÔNE DON’T SELL THE FARM, BUY IT
Cotes du Luberon and Ventoux are part of the Rhone region and the current vintages of the ‘old farm’ brand are the best yet. Both have lots of personality and great drinkability. Versatile wines for any occasion. Handy screwcap and nice price. What more can I say.
LA VIEILLE FERME 07 WHITE, Côtes du Luberon, France 298505 $11.65
LA VIEILLE FERME 06 RED, Cvtes du Ventoux, France 263640 $11.55
P.S. The wonderful 07 Rose is sold out but the next vintage will hopefully appear next Spring.

3. MORE on THE RHONE LOOK FOR LOUIS’ WHITE TOO
Louis Bernard’s Rhone reds are recommended above but the winery also makes a white Cotes du Rhone which in the style of a non-oaked Chardonnay. Fresh, fruity and very gulpable. A little Viognier in the blend adds some peachy yumminess. Could be the best $10 white in the world. Handy screwcap.
Louis Bernard 07 Cotes du Rhone Blanc, France 589432 $10.75

4. MORE on THE RHONE GREEN RABBIT
The rabbits are breeding and now we have an organic bunny. And it’s the best Rabbit yet. Lots of rustic French country character. Not one of those dolled-up Merlots.
Green Rabbit 07 Merlot, VDP des Bouches du Rhone, France 87379 $13.75 Litre Tetra

5. BETTER BORDEAUX
Bordeaux reds used to dominate the world of premium wine but most people now shop elsewhere when they want a fancy Merlot/Cabernet blend. But may I suggest you explore the only twenty-dollar Bordeaux offered by the Board. Ch. Pey La Tour (Vintages Essentials) is impressive without being too serious. Which is a good rule for all dinner party wines. It’s produced mainly from Merlot grapes.
Ch. Pey La Tour 05 Bordeaux, France 925859 $22.95

BEER & HOT DOGS by Michael Schophaus

“Okay, so there are ten men on the field, One man throws a ball, another holds a bat and a third crouches expectantly behind him while seven other players stand around doing nothing. The one with the ball throws it again and again and the others still do nothing except the one with the big glove, who keeps catching the ball and ruining the suspense!

This goes on until you hear a dull thwack and the ball is hit. Then the batter drops his bat and runs off as if he had the devil on his heels, and the others, who were standing around doing nothing, still don’t do much except catch the ball and throw it to their neighbor. The other man runs like crazy trying to reach a particular patch of ground before the ball. Finally, the referee loudly announces the answer to the ultimate question: What came first? The runner or the ball?

Then another batter comes along and nothing happens for a while before it all starts over again. This begs the question: What ‘s been around longer, baseball or boredom? Some maintain that the sport was only invented so people could buy beer and hot dogs without missing a trick.”

BISTRO: 'A place that is informal, animated and friendly. Where hearty helpings of unfussy good with big flavours are served on heavy white china plates along with chewy bread and unpretentious wines.'
THANKS to About Thyme Bistro in Vineland for this description. Did they miss anything? Do you know a place that meets ALL these requirements? I'm not sure if I do, except for a few Italian restaurants.

here's my favourite Niagara place to eat
STONE ROAD GRILLE (sign outside says Rest) www.stoneroadgrille.com

If I lived in Niagara I'd be here a lot. It's a casual pub/bistro place for topnotch food and wines at reasonable prices – served by intelligent, fun-loving staff. Judging by the amount of wine consumed, everyone seems to be as comfortable as if they were at home. The prices are conducive to trying at least a couple of bottles. Owners Heidi and Perry Johnson deserve an award for creating this rare combination of quality, fun and value.

Chef Ryan Crawford could be cooking at a five star joint. And the service staff are also major players in this production. For fun you must have the beautifully presented charcuterie platter, maybe with Pinot or Gamay. Reserve your table at 905.468.3474

P.S. For lunch, check out the NIAGARA COLLEGE (Glendale Campus)– a bright, circular room with a view of the escarpment. Try the lunch and wine package. The College makes very good wine which you can purchase next door to the restaurant. (Niagara College is located across from White Oaks Inn. QEW at Glendale Road) 905.641.2252

Read my recent update on Niagara wineries here!

'To say Tetra Paks are recycable is to use a loose, broad definition of recycling" says Franz Hartmann of the Toronto Environmental Alliance. Apparently we are sending Tetra Pak cartons to mills in China and Korea.

“Earnest Gallo made wine affordable, Robert Mondavi made wine enjoyable.” H. Teahen
Robert Mondavi, one of wine’s legends died recently (at 94 years) and prompted this quote. Joy is obviously the secret to a long life.

"After drinking Cabernet Sauvignon the male exudes a musky aroma pheramonally attractive to the opposite sex.”
Max Lake

SCREW OFF
The Valpolicella Cassico organization does not approve screw caps so one of its top producers, Allegrini, has quit. “We believe it’s the best closure, so we quit’ says Franco Allegrini.

FRANCE CHANGES ITS RULES
France has given winemakers (those in VDP regions – mainly in the South) approval to make New World-style wine. Wood chips (for vanilla flavour) added tannin (for colour) and other ‘foreign’ techniques will now be tolerated. Will this change anything? No. Foreign techniques have been in use all along.

THE GREAT MALIVOIRE LUNCH
One of my favourite luncheon tastings of the year is when Martin Malivoire brings a case of his new wines to Gamelle restaurant. I love the Parisienne feeling in this tiny restaurant and when Owner Jean-Pierre starts crowding the table with a little this and that, I have to admit I’m tasting something French in the Malivoire wines. Which suits me fine as I’ve always maintained that the model for Ontario wine is France (and Italy).

Malivoire’s vineyards are Federally certified organic. The portfolio is loosely built around Burgundian grapes and the winery is following the role model that makes sense for a small to medium sized Niagara winery – craft medium to expensive wines with as much individual character as possible. Be an alternative to imports at $15 to $35.

We start with oysters and the 07 Melon (Muscadet) ($20) which is high class simplicity. Excellent aperitif wine that will be available in half bottles.

For all round drinkability the star white is 06 Pinot Grigio ($18). Fruity, fresh and friendly. Malivoire is very committed to dry Rosé and the 06 ‘Ladybug’ ($16), was a hit with a platter of shaved chorizo?? Every bottle I had this summer was a hit with whatever food was on the table. For late Sunday afternoon sipping I highly recommend Malivoire’s slightly sweet and seductive 06 Gewurztraminer ($26).

Breakfast drinkers should get the Chardonnay Musque ($22) made in the Moscato, low alcohol style. The 06 Chardonnay ($22 at LCBO 573147) is fresh, lean, classy and suited to summer aperitif or a patio lunch. Moira Vineyard 05 Chardonnay ($40) is the big rich Burgundian.

Started into the REDS with my favourite, the 05 Gamay ($16). A red that’s good with almost anything, especially in summer. I’d like to see more wineries following Malivoire’s lead with Gamay. Pinot is Martin’s baby and the 05 ($32) is very characterful with a mix of tasty fruit and an earthy/gamey character – perfect Pinot. It’s crying out for grilled meat and good company. Moira Vineyard 05 Pinot ($42) is naturally more intense, and seductive. For the Pinot-at-any price fan.

All these wines can be shipped. Why not try a mixed case, or get introduced to Malivoire with Pinot Grigio, Gamay and Rosé.

905-563-9253 www.malivoire.com

And take your sweetie to GAMELLE. You’ll get excellent wine service from the young Basque, John.
www.gamelle.com

MY RANT ABOUT RATING WINE BY SCORES

The February 2nd Vintages release features an article on the 100 point scoring system along with several selections to try. Most of you will know that I find wine scoring to be terribly misleading and a bit of an ego trip for the critic. Its greatest flaw is it assumes that pleasure comes soley from the wine with no thought for context or mood.Just about all high scoring wines are super rich, a bit serious and totally inappropriate for most of life's drinking and social occasions. Wines that account for most of our fun times usually score in the 75 to 85 range. But the consumer is reluctant to buy something at this level as the score suggests mediocrity.

Wine, or anything for that matter, can only be good at or for something – it can't just be good in itself. Wine scoring fosters the belief that highly ranked wines give more pleasure, and nothing could be further from the truth. Unless all your purchases in life are trophys, then you must buy 95 plus scored wines.

Wine scoring is an American invention and the writers who use it seem to have very strong American sensibilities. They love comfort, softness, richness and sweetness, and all things obvious. They dislike any form of challenge, adventure or mystery. If you would like to sample a couple of 90 point wines by America's most celebrate wine critic, Robert Parker Jr, try the following: Maxwell Four Roads Shiraz (57000 $21.90 page 10 in the catalogue) and Pillar Box Red (685941 $17.40 page 9). Both drinks seem to be modeled on Port, and are more closely related to chocolate than wine.

My pet boring/hate wine in this release is Bodega Cyan '12 Messes' Toro, Spain (66936 $16.75 page 17) a 90 pointer by Jay Miller (an associate of Parker). It's a big, chunky, awkward brute. Shades of a really bad monster home.

There is, however, a way that wine scores could be useful: if they were accompanied by a category and context. For example, Wine X score 92 – a rustic, bistro-style red for enjoying with hearty foods and good friends. Wine Y score 96 – a marvelous thirst-quencher for an alfresco aperitif before a smart, summer dinner.

What do YOU think? Would love to hear from you.Email me!


PLANTATREE WINES!
The IRONSTONE WINERY from California recently launched a line of plastic bottle wines at the LCBO under the brand name of Plantatree. This is another environmental pitch to wine drinkers – Tree Canada will receive $2.50 from your purchase and plant a tree. Is this environmentally friendly, commercially savvy, or both? You decide how to spend your $14.95. I found both reds to be very plain but the fruity/sweet Chardonnay would be popular for party gulping.

DEVELOPING DIFFERENCES
As you are probably aware there is not a whole lot of difference between wines from the newer wine countries. Especially the reds which seem to be crafted to a common palate, a prototype – yummy and rich. Traditional reds of Europe are more distinctive because they had the luxury of being able to take generations to find their own style. Whereas today’s Aussie or Chilean winemakers are under pressure to please a global market.

Billy’s Weekly Wine Tip: THE CELLAR IS DEAD
Cellaring is an old practice from the days when wine was undrinkable early in life due to crude manufacturing and lack of vineyard management. Today, ninety-nine-percent of wine is ready to drink when it hits the shelf. Your purchases will not improve if cellared. Sure there are a few $25+ wines that need more time to evolve but why bother when you can live a very full wine life without these. And have you noticed that cellar owners tend to become collectors rather than drinkers. They sit on wine till it goes over the hill – because their events and friends are never worthy of it. Everyone loses out. Remember it’s much less of a tragedy to drink a wine too young than too old.

The other assumption with cellaring is the belief that everyone will enjoy mature-tasting red wines. These tend to have flavours and feelings suggesting an old mens club – faded leather, cigars and roast beef. WEINERT CAB in the Saturday, January 19th Vintages release is a great example of a mature red (tastes a lot older than the year on the label). Check it out. WEINERT 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina. (656363 $16.85)

Billy's Weekly Wine Tip: GO BEYOND NICE
While easy drinking wines provide comfort, it’s the challenging ones that keep us stimulated. Tension is an important emotion in wine, as it is in music. Red Italian wines have always been deliberately out of balance – bitter and tense, and need a partner to create balance. When you bring food to the scene there is a beautiful harmony. You create something more exciting than if you took the nice and safe route.

BEST KEPT SECRET FOR FOODIES
Harbord Street is semi-famous for its restaurants such as elegant Splendido and modern bistro Messis. But the best kept secret is a café/patisserie called DESSERT TRENDS.

Located in a handsome building on the corner of Brunswick, it is an oasis of calmness and serenity with an Eastern aesthetic that is as joyful as the face of owner/Olympic chef, Don Doung. Go and enjoy very good espresso and croissants, perhaps the best almond croissant in the city. Soups, salads and sandwiches are tasty works of art, as are the desserts, homemade ice cream, wedding cakes and food products to go. Fantastic! There is care in every detail, even the washrooms. Closed Mondays. Now open for Dinner Wednesday to Saturday. Now licensed!

Dessert Trends,154 Harbord Street, Toronto
www.desserttrends.ca

ONTARIO REPORT
As you may have noticed, fruit wineries have popped up all over the province, and some of these are now making grape wine too. "Thanks to Minnesota, and their winter hardy grape varieties, we are now looking at a new wine route in southern Ontario – Highway 401."

Local wine expert Larry Patterson recently organized a tasting of off-the-beaten-track wines, and it did a lot to prove his point. I didn't have time to do justice to what was offered but I urge you to explore this new outer realm of Ontario wine.. .such as Neil and Gwen Lamont's 'COFFIN RIDGE WINERY' in Meaford where you'll meet 'Into the light White' and 'Back from the Dead Red'. How can you resist? www.coffinridge.ca 519.371.9871

GET YOUR GOAT
This season FEATHERSTONE Vineyard is trying something new and unique in the Niagara wine industry by 'employing' a small flock of sheep to eat their way through the grape leaves that need to be removed from the fruiting zone on the vines. Winemaker David Johnson recently spent eight weeks in New Zealand, where the use of sheep in vineyards is commonplace. Sheep like to eat -- and the tender young grape leaves are very appealing to them. www.featherstonewinery.ca

The DRAKE HOTEL is on the route I take when headed to places west of TO so I drop into the café a lot. Great non-sweet fruit scones and guaranteed good espresso BUT, what tops it all is the young staff who greet me as if I was their best friend. Even when they’re busy as hell they make me feel like a king. The Drake is one of the busiest (and most creative) places in town but they never forget to treat their customers well.

“reveals a tight but promising nose of underbrush”
Robert Parker – world’s most influential wine writer

WORSE OF THE WORST
And the prize for worst wine of the year (change that to decade) goes to Kressmann 'Winemaker's Exclusive Bin' Red and White, France (Tetra). Both wines have the dull, dirty character of something that had been left on the street for a week. And used as an ashtray. I haven't tasted anything this bad in decades. Had to warn you. 

"We have Bordeaux, Barbera, Chianti, Albarino, Gavi, Sauvignon Blanc, Non-Oaked Chardonnay, even Fino Sherry – what can I pour for you?"
"Shiraz please."
overheard at a wine event

THE FIRST BI-SEXUAL SAINT
The folks at Visa have started to rechristen the 17th of March as St. Patty's Day. Or so it appears in one of their recent ads.

“men take wine too seriously”
Gilberto Bojaca, founder of the Canadian Association of Sommeliers

WINE FOR SCORING BIG
Okay so what if Valentine's is over. It should be a 365 holiday... so the following info is designed for guys, because they seem to need help in the romance department. It stresses them, often prompting James Bond style extravagances on bottles of Bollinger Champagne. Forget it.. Your partner doesn't want to be impressed, she wants love and attention. Which you can do with wine – several bottles of wine.

I suggest you orchestrate a series of wine treats. Different experiences, different size bottles, and different ways of showing you care.

1. Start the day with a split of Muscat wine at breakfast. A nice low alcohol, sweet, highly perfumed drink. No big deal, but it shows you've remembered. And because the bottle is tiny she'll know to expect more later. You'll be viewed as 'thoughtful'.
Martini & Rossi Asti, Italy 361790 200ml/$3.45

2. For evening cocktails pour a dry Muscat. Very refreshing and wonderfully teasing. Muscat is the most sensual of all wine fragrances. She'll notice. You could do a seafood appetizer with this, or not. After a glass or two say, "I'm going to pop the bottle in the fridge so we can do this again tomorrow". Affirming the relationship is always a good idea.
Cave Spring 05 Chardonnay Musque, Niagara 246579 $15.95

3. Naturally you'll cook her favourite supper which hopefully is something that works with your next wine, a seductive Zinfandel. Spicy and rich red that has a Latino spirit. Way more exotic than Cabernet.
Ravenswood 04 Zinfandel 'Vintners Blend', California 359257 $19.95

4. Act four can be fireside or bedroom. It's time for a smooth, charming Port. Not the traditional dark-bottled, old men's stuff, but something delicate and romantic. The ideal bedtime sipper. With or without chocolate.
Warre's 'Otima' 10-year-old Tawny Port, Portugal 566174 500ml/$21.95

That's it. Your stash will cost less than a bottle of Bollinger, and chances are she'll be impressed and keep you for another year.

GOOD READ
My favourite drink or food books are about personal experience. Being there and telling the story. 'The World is a Kitchen' is a compilation of 37 first-person adventures across five continents. Including one by a dear friend and expert in 'doing it my way', Ann McColl Lindsay. Each chapter offers a recipe, and the book has a great list of culinary tours and food magazines.
The World is a Kitchen, $20.95 (distributed by Publishers' Group West)

 
GOOD LISTEN
Yes folks, there is an alternative to Hockey Night in Canada. Randy's Vinyl Tap on CBC Radio One (Saturdays at 7 p.m.) is two hours of music and chat with Canadian rocker and raconteur Randy Bachman. I love the stories, the man's passion, and reliving my long forgotten times. Music sure marks moments. Listener's letters often tell Randy that his show, and a bottle of wine, have become the new Canadian Saturday night. I'll drink to that.
 
 
The answer is "that's how big a glassblower could blow." And the question is how did the 750ml size bottle come about?


WHAT'S IN A NAME? One of the challenges facing all you guys out there is what to think of wines with gimmacky names. To buy or not? My experience has been – none are bad, most are easydrinking, and a few are very good. Such as the following:

Fat Bastard Chardonnay got its name when the Aussie winemaker used those words to describe the first vintage. I've found the wine to be very sweet, but the '05 vintage is different. Drier, still rich but now there's a firmness, great vitality and overall, it's more French. Definitely a manly Chardonnay. An 'earthy Bastard'. My style. Bring on herbed, garlicky white meats. Fat Bastard 2005 Chardonnay, VDP d'Oc, France (563130 $14.95)

Switching to red, you may have noticed a pair of Vin de Pays d'Oc wines with labels that are a spoof on the Aussie custom of using Bin numbers. Except in this case. Bin numbers are apartment numbers on someone's dustbin (English word for garbage can). The label is a black 'n white photo of the bin. Very funny, but maybe you need to be British. The wines are hefty but plain. As is another red from the same company called Bishop's Select. But, a fourth spoof red is quite good. Boutinot 2004 Cotes du Ventoux 'Chat-en-Oeuf' (21113 $12.25) has the warm. peppery, rustic character of everyday Rhone reds. Bistro stuff. Good for any cold night. And you gotta love the 'lap it up' suggestion on the back label. No prizes for guessing which famous wine inspired this spoof.

For centuries the French were annoyed at the rest of the world for using, or abusing, their wine names. Who would have thought that one day they would start poking fun at themselves? All part of a 'lighter' world I hope.

THE BOTTLE THAT SHOCKED MY WORLD It wasn't the new lighthearted French that shocked me most this year, but a surprise from the Germans. A century of supplying the world with the worst quality commercial wine is over. A large producer in the Mosel has entered the modern wine arena with wine of the quality we're accustomed to from all other countries. Moselland 2004 Riesling Spatlese 'Divinum' (619676 $11.95) has started a new era in German wine, and hopefully there will be no going back. No more candy-cute stuff but a wine with beautiful fresh, pure flavours and spring day freshness. Off-dry, lighthearted, low-alcohol wine for daytime or early evening drinking. Sunday brunch for sure. Handy screwcap too. "Makes me feel happy" was a friends response. Serve it with the bird and ham.

DECANTING Does careless decanting bruise your wine? I was glad to see that all of you took this question to heart. Most of the replies to my question were unprintable. Eldon, from London, is convinced that "glugging improves the wine", while Richard from T.O. says he feels "really decadent decanting when dining alone". Dinner with your decanter! Could be the next wine movie.



Email from my sister " I'm in hospital. Was poisoned. I ate daffodil bulbs, thought they were onions. But don't panic, the doctor said I should be out in Spring!"

CHECK OUT CZEHOSKI
Ground floor looks like just another smart new restaurant but I do love the wall of wine and old deli cooler full of beer. Up one flight and you're in a relaxed, minimal decor space that could be in Paris. Come back in winter with a book. For now you need to take a sharp left past a great looking bar and out onto the rooftop patio. Decorated in a mishmash of woods, tin, grasses and whatever, it has the feeling of a city dweller's hideaway. Great wine list with reasonable prices (Malivoire Gamay $35), imported beers served in appropriate glassware and lots of tasty snacks or main courses. My favourite time here is at sunset to see the change of atmosphere from day to night. The owners love the patio so much they even come up for a beer.

Czehoski. 678 Queen Street West, (west of Bathurst), Toronto
416 366 6787 www.czehoski.com

SOLVING CHAMPAGNE PROBLEMS
Regular non-vintage Champagne always hits the spot before dinner because it feels fresh, but what's the best time for the hugely expensive Vintage stuff? The conventional belief is that Vintages is more deluxe version of the regular but with the same use. Can be, but one night recently I found myself with a glass of Laurent-Perrier 1997 after the dinner. Age had given it an earthy, slightly bitter character and sipped from a big wine glass, it felt more nourishing than refreshing. If the company were not all dashing off home I would have been happy to spend an hour or two with their drink. So if someone gives you a bottle of Vintage Champagne save it for late evening with people who are good at after dinner conversation.

P.S. I am fortunate to be invited to some splendid food and wine dinners at Truffles restaurant at the Four Seasons hotel. Contray to what you might believe, theses events are not at all stuff as the young staff of the restaurant manage to make things fun while still being professional.

"Unmistakably lovely."
How could that be? A wine description in a catalogue.

"Gentrification led to an inevitable transformation of the Imperial Pub. Out went the spit, sawdust and strippers and in came the wine."

DOING IT HIS WAY no loony toon
Despite his irreverant, childlike, whimsical and all-wrong approach to wine, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon has recorded his fourth in a row, double digit sales increase. His wines are never great but they are fun to buy and to drink. If you're ever feeling blue visit boonydoonwineyard.com. It will give you an idea of why people enjoy the world of Doon.