TRAVEL NOTES
Send me a postcard!

Halifax ...lots of fun and local culture to be had for a few days
St. John's, Newfoundland
10 Great French Experiences ...fab house wine, Henriot Champagne and...
excerpts from Steve Campbell's hilarious COUNTY magazine article about driving in France
Chablis in Dublin..and more Dublin travel notes
Wakefield, Quebec...plan on going!
London: St John Restaurant..my favourite new bar
North Bay
Niagara
Prince Edward County
Stratford
New York City
Lisbon
South Africa

A FEW THINGS TO DO IN HALIFAX
One can only drink, eat and wander so much during a weekend, but here are my picks from a short visit this spring. If you’re there on a Saturday I highly recommend that you start at the Farmers Market and let the day unfold from there. Perhaps night capping at the Lord Nelson!
While Halifax has some upscale wine bar/restaurants I find these places to be the same all over the world. No fun when you’re looking for local colour. Here are my favourites.

BARS/RESTAURANTS/BREWERY
The Wooden Monkey ,1685 Argyle Street www.thewoodenmonkey.ca
Shades of hippy days in San Fran. Lots of cozy nooks, organics, but not strictly vegetarian. Tables opposite the bar are flooded with natural light during the afternoon – the back dining room is a romantic place at night. Great murals. Best selection of local wines.

The Lord Nelson Bar, 1515 South Park Street www.lordnelsonhotel.com
Traditional, cozy old bar in the hotel of the same name. Conducive to many pints. Informal, Dublinish atmosphere. Other features are a good wine selection and a kitchen that’s open late.

Garrison Brewing Co.,1149 Marginal Road www.garrisonbrewing.com
There are several craft breweries in town, but Garrison was my fav. It’s located down by Pier 21 – beer always seems to taste better close to the ocean! Garrison Pale Ale could hold its own with the best from Britain. Bartender Damien recommended the Raspberry Wheat after mowing the lawn.

Morris East, 5212 Morris Street at Barrington www.morriseast.com
Contemporary café specializing in pizza from a wood burning oven, plus great anti-pasta, sandwiches and salads using mainly local ingredients. Wood-fired potatoes are a must. There’s a few well chosen wines and beers. Relaxed, neighbourhood atmosphere. I liked the historic nature of this locale.

Jane’s On the Common, 2394 Robie Street www.janesonthecommon.com
Contemporary bistro with a great neighbourhood feeling. High quality, comfort food and a simple, good wine list. No pretence, just lots of people having a good time. I’d be with them if I lived in Halifax!

FID Restaurant, 1569 Dresden Row www.fidcuisine.ca
Bright, contemporary, arty place offering upscale Franco-Asian food along with a serious commitment to wine. For a gourmet, blow-the-wad, night out.


COFFEE SHOPS

Ciboulette Café, 1541 Barrington Street www.ciboulette.ca
There’s a few tiny tables that overlook a knitting room. Honest! Watching people knit as you sip you java – double relaxing! Good espresso and baked goods by Chives Bistro next door.

Trident Coffee House/Bookstore,1256 Hollis Street www.tridenthalifax.com
Tiny, old-world joint. Excellent espresso and a literary atmosphere.

WINE & FOOD SHOPPING

Halifax Farmer’s Market 1696 Lower Water St. www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com
The place to be on Saturday between 7am and 1pm. Set in a warren of old buildings and courtyards – feels like a big party. You can taste all the Nova Scotia wines and Glen Breton Whiskey here too. How civilized!

Bishop’s Cellar, 1477 Lower Water Street www.bishopscorner.com
Just across the road from the market, this independent wine store make a good second stop on Saturday morning. Every inch of the place is jammed with wines from all over the world – lots of smaller and organic producers. The feel-good thing that government stores can’t offer.

Port of Wines , Doyle Street at Queen
This is one of the best government wine shops in Canada. Even the largest LCBOs don’t come close to the selection offered here – I counted seven wines from Bruce Jack, one of South Africa’s best. The LCBO hasn’t a single bottle.

KACABA REVISITED
When Vineland’s Kacaba winery first opened I thought that the wines were overly spicy/sweet, and overly priced. A recent tasting revealed that the winery is continuing as it started. However I did find one gem. The 2003 Cabernet Franc ($25.95) delivers the pure flavours and challenging vigour and vitality of this grape. Lots of old– fashioned red wine character – Ontario’s edition of Chianti. It’s starting to fade but shows the potential of this grape. Which must be the most-used line in Niagara’s wine history.

MALIVOIRE UPDATE JANUARY 2008 read all about it here


NIAGARA REVISITED
You gotta go. Once you’re off the highway and start visiting wineries, tasting, buying food at road stands, seeing stuff, and having meals you realize what a wonderful experience we have here. Sure it’s not as hilly as Tuscany but I think you can eat and drink as well as anywhere in the world. We’ve come a long in a short time.

You need at least two days, three would be better – especially if you want to take time to smell the roses. I like to do the Niagara- on-the-Lake region first heading down York Road to Queenston, and then up the beautiful Parkway. A little refreshment on the back patio of the Riverbend Inn and I’m in the zone.

You really have to visit Niagara to taste what local wine is all about. Little or no quality local wine appears on LCBO shelves. That is not to say that everything at the wineries good, far from it.

I’m happy to report that winemakers are at last getting a grip on how to make truly local wine. The days of Californian look-alikes are over (with the exception of wines made for competitions). I’ve made a list of wines that I think are uniquely Niagara – wines that have no equivalent from another country. See end.

Summary of wines: Riesling and Chardonnay are the top wines. Viognier and Pinot Gris are also good but limited availability. Gamay and Cabernet Franc are tops in red. Pinot is certainly there, and may eventually be the local hero. While everyone is producing big reds most of these feel contrived, flavoured or in some way unnatural. If you go to Niagara looking for editions of your favourite Shiraz you will be wasting your, and their time.

How to taste? Instead of thinking ‘do I like this?’ Imagine a context for every wine you taste. Ask the winery for “let me try a refresher! Let me try a rich white! Let me try something rustic to have with BBQ'd sausages! etc." If you taste with no context in mind, you will end up buying wines that felt good at the time. And weeks later wonder why you bought them.

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WINERIES RECENTLY VISITED (summer 2007) with my recommended Best Buys
(Listed geographically from Beamsville to Niagara on the Lake)

A few thoughts on the wineries and the wines:

PENINSULA RIDGE
www.peninsularidge.com
Upscale, with a high end restaurant. French winemaker, Jean-Pierre Colas is re-learning his craft in Niagara. And doing well, especially with whites. Start with a delicious, refreshing 06 Viognier $13.95. (Coming to Vintages mid-Sept). Also check-out the charming, Non-oaked 06 Inox Reserve Chardonnay $19.95 shades of Pouilly-Fuisse. The 02 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $19.95 is rich but quite gracious. In reds I liked the lighthearted feeling of the 02 Cabernet Franc $39.95. A lively, Elton John sort of wine.

ANGELS GATE WINERY
www.angelsgatewinery.com
Nouveau riche-style house nestled into the hillside. Pretty place but feels unsure of its style. Lunches indoors or on the patio.
Look for more focus in the wines now that Phil Dowell (ex Inniskillin) is in charge. Old Vines 04 Chardonnay $23.95 has glam but also feels slim and elegant. Classy stuff. The lively 05 Gamay $12.95 is super refreshing, a true local. You must try the semi-sweet Late Harvest Cabernet Rosé $23. An afternoon, or Thanksgiving daytime sipper. I like how all of these wines are true local expressions.

THIRTY BENCH
www.thirtybench.com
Not great on curb appeal but this little joint gets three awards from me: most improved wines, best tasting room person in Janine Hunink, and best wine descriptions by winemaker Natalie Reynolds. At the risk of getting gushy I also love the use of old rusted roofing tin in the sinage, and the option to taste at your own bar table. Improvements here are thanks to one of the former bad guys of local wine (Andres – Baby Duck) but more recently, Hillebrand and Peller. Thirty Bench has some of the oldest plantings of Riesling, and Natalie has crafted a range of superb wines $18 – $32. There’s also a decadent 06 Gewurztraminer $30, and a delish, well priced, Cab/Merlot blend called Thirty Bench red $22.

HIDDEN BENCH
www.hiddenbench.com
Niagara’s newest aiming-for-the-top winery. Big budget, restored old farmhouse and huge barn. Very good, high-end wines by a French winemaker Jean-Martin Bouchard. But not a place to take your drinking buddies. Silky, super-duper Estate 05 Chardonnay $35, citrussy, classy 05 Estate Riesling $22 and a super rich white Meritage called Nuit Blanche $40. The red equivalent, Terroir Cache $35, has a wonderful rustic, gutsy character. There’s a serious Rosé $18, and other high-end reds will be released later this year.

FIELDING
www.fieldingwines.com
Mountain chalet with a great view from the tasting bar. And friendly, welcoming staff. Delicious off-dry Pinot Grigio $18, and 06 Sauvignon Blanc is also a yummy drink (but not for the serious Sauv fan). Rich, Alsace-style 06 Reserve Riesling $22 needs a year to evolve.

MOUNTAIN ROAD WINE COMPANY
www.mountainroadwine.com
Am I entering a winery or a scrap yard? (Both appeal to me). It gets better once you see a café table set against a stone wall.
Steve Kocsis has some seriously old Chard vines and it shows in his wine. His 03 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $16.15 may be the world’s best buy in rich whites. Manly and super concentrated – shades of wine made in Burgundy by a New Yorker. You must get some. The 03 Reserve Chardonnay $26.15 is more glitzy and glamorous. Vegas style.

DE SOUSA
www.desousawines.com
A mini Portugese villa and gardens on top of the escarpment. Surreal! Rustic reds that taste best out of a clay cup – which they provide. Portuguese BBQ $14.95 (sardines, chicken, pork, etc) in the garden on Sat and Sun (noon-5:00).

MALIVOIRE
www.malivoire.com
Beautiful landscaping, striking entrance and serene tasting room. A modern space with traditional values. Estate wines are organic. Stylish Chardonnays $22-$36, Pinot Gris $18, Pinot Noir $28 and Rosé $16. My fav is the exuberant Gamay $16. A true local. (Coming to Vintages mid-Sept).

TAWSE WINERY
www.tawsewinery.ca
Welcome to my Chateau! Please close the gate! Well made, high-end wines in keeping with the fancy surroundings. Exotic Chardonnays and the 04 Cabernet Franc $29 is lush and sexy – shades of Pinot.

RIDGEPOINT WINES
www.ridgepointwines.com
Simple spot but you can get a good pasta lunch, (but avoid the overpriced pizza). Killer Gewurztraminer $18. The reds have a gutsy, rustic character – 04 Pinot $25, Merlot $20 and Meritage $20 are all good food wines.

VINELAND ESTATES
www.vineland.com
One of Niagara’s showpieces (best view), complete with a high-end restaurant. Outstanding Mosel-style Rieslings (at LCBOs), stylish Sauvignon Blanc $18 and Pinot Blanc $16.

CALAMUS
www.calamuswines.com
No fancy resto at this old barn. Very backwoods, very rustic, very small, and very good.
Calamus 06 white $12 – fresh ‘n fun, and Calamus 05 Red $15 – earthy, rustic, are two of the best buys in Niagara. The 06 Pinot Gris $15 could pass for something fancy from France. And there’s yummy 06 non-oaked Chardonnay too. Bravo Calamus.
P.S. Arthur Harder is the consulting winemaker here and at Ridgepoint.

FLAT ROCK CELLARS
www.flatrockcellars.com
Novel, sky-pod winery set high on the escarpment that has done everything right in its first few years. Classic 06 Dry Riesling ‘Nadja’s’ $19.95 (coming to Vintages mid-Sept), lively, lovely 05 Chardonnay $16.95, rich, charming 05 Chardonnay ‘Rusty Shed’ $24.95, lively, Beaujolais-style 05 Pinot $19.95, and seductive 05 Pinot ‘Gravity’ $29.95.

CAVE SPRING CELLARS
www.cavespring.ca
A model of consistency in wine. Also showing innovation and good taste in developing the village of Jordan. Drinks, meals and beds at the Inn on the Twenty, and more of the same down the road at the Jordan Tavern. Good Riesling, (stunning 06 Estate Riesling $17.95) Chardonnay and Pinot at the LCBO and the following at the winery. Champagne styling meets Prosecco drinkability in the 04 Brut Sparkling $29.95, gorgeous fruit and delicacy in 06 Chenin Blanc $21.95 (garden wine), blockbuster flavours in 06 Gewurztraminer $19.95, raunchy, woodsy character in 04 Gamay Reserve $19.95 (anyone for wild boar), exotic flavours and refreshment in 06 ‘Indian Summer’ Riesling $24.95, and a new wine experience in the Ripasso-style 05 Cabernet Franc ‘La Penna’ $35. A charmer to savour in the winter.

CREEKSIDE
www.creeksidewine.com
Low budget facility but there’s a shaded deck with food coming off the grill. And below ground is one of Niagara’s largest barrel cellars where some fun guys craft good wines. Recommended wines to follow.

13th STREET
www.13thstreetwines.com
This long established, four guy, hobby operation that has produced some really good wines. Most with individual statements. Open Saturdays only. Funk 06 Riesling is good enough to warrant $24.00, 04 Chardonnay Reserve has a perfect mix of richness and zest, and my fave, Sandstone 05 Gamay Reserve $26.00 is earthy and Chianti in style. The white blend 06 Et Ceteras $22.00 is good enough to be house wine at a top restaurant. While the rustic red blend, 05 Et Ceteras $22.00, could hold its own at an Italian restaurant. These guys really deliver local.

HENRY OF PELHAM
www.henryofpelham.com
Hands-on family operation that’s been one of the cornerstones of Niagara wine. Old coaching inn, interesting Canadian art collection and light foods and local cheeses available on the patio. Very good wine at all price levels and at last, a smarter-looking label. Excellent Riesling, Chardonnay and Baco at LCBOs. At the winery there’s super refreshing sparkling, Cuvee Catharine in white or Rosé $29.95, a gutsy/rich Baco Reserve $24.95 and a very Burgundian 05 Pinot Reserve $24.95.

CHATEAU DES CHARMES
www.chateaudescharmes.com
Imposing Chateau surrounded by beautifully manicured vineyards. Rose bushes everywhere – very formal, very French. Bossman Paul Bosc is one of the founders of the modern Canadian wine industry. A huge range of wines at all price levels. Check out the St David’s Bench whites: herbaceous and tangy 06 Sauvignon Blanc $15.95, tasty, floral fresh 06 Viognier $25.00, and bold flavoured 06 Gewurztraminer $19.95. The 05 Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ $15.95 has a wild country character similar to bistro wines in France. Great with a paté or cheese platter. The 04 Cabernet/Merlot $19.95 also has French heartiness. All the reds need a food partner.

THE ICE HOUSE
www.theicehouse.ca
Longtime Niagara winemaker Jamie Macfarlane and brother Douglas, have just opened and are specializing in Icewine. A house white and red will also be available on their patio. Located in a lovely old Peach barn, set back from the Parkway.

MARYNISSEN
www.marynissen.com
Simple, no frills winery with a long eastablished following. Everything gets sold on site. John Marynissen claims to have some of the oldest Cabernet vines in Niagara. Sandra’s Summer Blend (white) $11.95 is an off-dry party sipper. Buy of the year in local red is the rustic 02 Cabernet/Merlot $14.95. It’s wine the old way – earthy, honest and a bit challenging. I asked how they got the amazing traditional Bordeaux-style flavours? “Easy, John is too cheap to buy new barrels.” Call today and order a case for fall and winter roasts and casseroles.

INNISKILLIN
www.inniskillin.com
The old lady of Niagara is getting a facelift which includes a large piazza. Montague Vineyard 04 Pinot Noir $24.95 is a must-have for fans of the earthy, invigorating Burgundian style. A wine that builds in the glass and knows how to flatter a simple herbed chicken.

LAILEY
www.laileyvineyard.com
Smart, modern tasting room in an old barn. Still a bit of a secret despite turning out some excellent wines. Lailey 06 Riesling (sold out) is one of the local hits of the year. Spring-like freshness, gorgeous Summer flavours and a joyful feeling. Not the austere style that Niagara does so well but more of an afternoon or early evening gulper. The kind of wine that could convert the world to this grape. The 06 non-oaked Chardonnay $15.95 is tangy dry with pure, mineral Chablis-style character. Best I’ve tasted in this category. Lailey Vineyard 05 Chardonnay $24.95 is the Niagara style at its best – vitality up front with richness and flavours lurking behind. Invigorating, teasing and easy on the make up. In red the 05 Zweigelt $14.95 is light and super refreshing. More tart than most whites. Could be Baco’s biker cousin. Lightly chill. I found the 04 reds to be a bit faded.

JACKSON-TRIGGS
www.jacksontriggswwinery.com
One of Niagara’s liveliest, jazziest winery experiences. Brilliant modern design that showcases the vineyards. Tina Dehondt and her enthusiastic young staff create a nice buzz. Take the tour and see it all. And pick-up some great everyday wines at everyday prices. The 06 Dry Riesling $10.95 is an A1 refresher at the best price in town, and Sauvignon Blanc fans will not be disappointed in the 06 at only $13.95. In reds the 04 Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon is a great everyday drink for only $11.95. For a light, summer red try the lively 04 Pinot Noir $13.95. In premium wines check-out the lovely citrussy 05 Delaine Vineyard Riesling $19.95, and the very French-style, earthy 05 Syrah $29.95.

STRATUS
www.strratuswines.com
Niagara’s most stylish/arty/serene winery. You don’t taste wines here, you experience them. Expensive but very good.
Riesling 06 $35.00 is steely and intense. Needs a few years. Stratus 04 White $38 blurs the grape variety thing and delivers a new experience that’s part freshness, part exotic and a lot of WOW. Would be a star on the world stage. Stratus 04 Red $38 is super concentrated and in need of a big steak. Coming in September is a classy, invigorating 04 Petit Verdot $32.

CHARLES BAKER
www.charlesbaker.ca
Charles is the sales director oat Stratus but he makes a tiny quantity of his own Riesling each year which he sells online. The 06 'Picone Vineyard' Vinemont Ridge $35 cuts right through the Niagara Riesling world offering a bit of everything. Especially drinkability. Off-dry and worth aging.

HILLDEBRAND
www.hillebrand.com
Another one of the old gang that has had a make-over. The place now feels like a mini village. Explore the new look-out tower, beautiful patio, big stylish restaurant, and vineyards. Tasting room can be very busy but staff are good at hospitality. An awful lot of wines – something for everyone. Side note: Hillebrand’s Jazz&Blues festivals (July&Aug) are a great way to spend a summer afternoon. Very stylish picnicing.The Artist Label series are VQA in the 06 vintage and the entire line offers good expressions of the grape varieties at reasonable $12-$14 prices. Favourites are the pretty Muscat, the wild Sauvignon Blanc, the rich Pinot Gris, the easy-drinking Meritage and the refreshing Gamay. Trius 05 Dry Riesling $13.95 is more refreshing than in the past and the new Trius 06 White $18.95 is a fun blend of Alsace grape varieties. A tasty mix of tartness and sweetness – perfect with white meats, or Sunday brunch.The Showcase line has classic 06 Dry Riesling $19.95 and lush 05 Chardonnay $35. Some of these wines are available at Hillebrand/Peller stores called Vineyeards.

IT'S ALMOST BUILT– JOHN HOWARD sold Vineland Estates ten years ago and went into retirement in his Niagara Chateau a mile up the road. Or so we all thought. Turns out he’s been buying and planting vineyards, constructing an amazing old-world style cave/winery and making wine.

Howard is part of an Irish steelworker family who built the first TD Tower in Toronto and several bridges over the St Lawrence, and I cannot help thinking that this winery is going to be his legacy. With emphasis on ‘ I did it my way’.

For help, Howard has experienced Niagara hands in vineyard manager Duarte Oliveira and winemaker Andre Lipinski, and the first batch of wines are promising and not over priced at $16 – $25. Best of all, they come with the most entertaining wine names and labels in the industry.

The brand is MELALOMANIAC and the labels feature faceless characters in different formal clothing, along with a playful character description of the grape variety such as: Contrarian Sauvignon Blanc, SonOfaBitch Pinot Noir, Narcissist Riesling and My Way Chardonnay. Move over Bonny Doon.

Niagara needs characters like Howard who dare to inject personality and humour into the hyper-conservative wine business. For some, he will be the idle rich man playing with wine but if the product is good, I’ll certainly be cheering him along. Check my next eletter for a report on Megalomaniac wines coming to Vintages in December. You may order the wines online. www.megalomaniacwine.com

TRUE LOCALS
Locals that have a character setting them apart from wines coming from anywhere else in the world. I had to omit a dozen Rieslings because there are just so many. I’ll update this list as I discover more, and maybe we can have an event around these wines and their connection to mood and food.  
 
• Angels Gate 04 Old Vines Chardonnay $23.95 is glam but also feels slim and elegant. Classy stuff.
• Angels Gate semi-sweet Late Harvest Cabernet Rosé $23. A novel sipper.
• Thirty Bench Rieslings – a range of superb wines $18–$32.
• Malivoire exuberant Gamay $16.
• Calamus earthy, rustic 05 Red $15.
• Calamus stylish 06 Pinot Gris $15.
• Flat Rock Cellars classic 06 Dry Riesling ‘Nadja’s’ $19.95
• Cave Spring classic 06 Estate Riesling $17.95
• Cave Spring gorgeous fruity, delicate 06 Chenin Blanc $21.95.
• Thirteen Street Sandstone earthy 05 Gamay Reserve $26.00.
• Thirteen Street delicious white blend, 06 Et Ceteras $22.00
• Henry of Pelham gutsy 05 Baco $12.95, and richer Baco Reserve $24.95.
• Henry of Pelham sparkling Cuvee Catharine, in white or Rosé $29.95
• Ch. des Charmes wild country 05 Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ $15.95.
• Marynissen wonderfully old-fashioned, rustic 02 Cabernet/Merlot $14.95.
• Inniskillin earthy, invigorating Montague Vineyard 04 Pinot Noir $24.95.
• Lailey spring-like, non-oaked 06 Chardonnay $15.95.
• Lailey Vineyard elegant 05 Chardonnay $24.95.
• Jackson-Triggs brilliant everyday 06 Dry Riesling $10.95.
• Jackson-Triggs lovely citrussy 05 Delaine Vineyard Riesling $19.95.
• Jackson-Triggs earthy, mysterious 05 Syrah $29.95.
• Stratus intense 06 Riesling 06 $35.00.
• Stratus nothing-like-it 04 White $38.
• Hillebrand fun Artist Label 06 Muscat.
• Trius semi-exotic 06 White $18.95.
 

PLACES TO EAT in Niagara

Two great new additions to the restaurant scene:
ABOUT THYME BISTRO (Vineland)
Nicely understated small restaurant with a pretty side patio. Ryan Shapiro cooks modern twists on bistro food with emphasis on local ingredients. And partner Donna Thomponson opens reasonably priced local wines. I mean local – Beamsville only.
3457 King Street W. (w. of Victoria Ave), Vineland 905.562.3457 www.aboutthymebistro.com

OLD WINERY RESTAURANT (Niagara on the Lake)
Tony Deluca’s new restaurant is modelled on the Italian trattoria – a big room filled with people enjoying affordable food and drink and making a lot of noise. You choose from wood fired pizza, pasta, steak, chicken, chop, or fish – and a wine list with the lowest prices on earth. Large patio too. How can you resist.
2228 Old Stone Rd., Niagara-on-the-Lake 905.468.8900

A couple of expansions:
STONE ROAD GRILLE (Niagara on the Lake)
My favourite Niagara restaurant has expanded so there’s more room for folks to join the nightly party. Perry and Heidi Johnson’s Stone Road Grille is a cross between French bistro and English pub – fun atmosphere but with a serious commitment to the food (chef Ryan Crawford) and drink (sommelier Jesse Harnden). If you value hospitality and good times this is the place to be. Jesse gets my vote for best service person on the planet. When will we see top service people get the fame of top chefs???
Mississauga Rd/Mary Street, Niagara on the Lake 905.468.3474 (sign outside says Rest) www.stoneroadgrille.com

THE RESTAURANT at HILLEBRAND (Virgil)
This has always been a bit of a secret since it’s tucked in behind the winery – overlooking the vineyards. Now with more tables, elegant patio and a smart, Californian atmosphere. And Chef Frank Dodd is happy too that the kitchen has expanded. Taste a few wines, eat well and stroll the grounds.
1249 Niagara Stone Road, Virgil 1.800.582.8412 www.hillebrand.com

Also recommended:
NIAGARA COLLEGE (Glendale Campus) Dining Room www.niagaracollege.ca/dining
ON THE TWENTY (Cave Spring) Jordan and JORDAN HOUSE TAVERN (road house food) www.innonthetwenty.com
PELLER ESTATES (Niagara-on-the-Lake) www.peller.com
RIVERBEND INN (Niagara-on-the-Lake) lunch on the patio is lovely www.riverbendinn.ca

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NEWFOUNDLAND VISIT
The Friday party led to the Saturday party which led to the Sunday supper. Seamless, as they say. We conducted a client appreciation winetasting in there somewhere for finance guy Jeff and that led to another party. I’ve always heard that Newfoundlanders were like the Irish and it’s true – sociability is their way of life. Conversation is their bread and butter.

THANKS to Jeff for a wonderful week-end, to your buddy Brian for tunes, tales and tips, and to your whole slew of fantastic clients, especially Bern and Bev.

"DID YOU KNOW that when you retire in Newfoundland, you get a piece of art, not a watch?"

Did manage a little about-town research in St John’s and for what it’s worth:

• The new ART GALLERY called ‘The Rooms’ is a must visit. It’s also a museum, has a café, and great vistas of the harbour and neighbouring buildings.

• The HARBOUR-SIDE WALK up to Signal Hill is also a must. So intimate it takes you across someone’s front deck.

• AUNTIE CRAE'S, 272 Water St, is a charming, old world meets new world, high-quality food store and café. Excellent espresso counter at the back.

• The LIQUOR STORE on Water Street doesn’t look like much but go exploring and you’ll find one of the best wine offerings anywhere. Every great French or Italian wine you ever read about is not only on the shelf, but often in several vintages and, in different bottle sizes. And at reasonable prices. Excuse me Mr LCBO, your Summerhill flagship is a great building, but the wine selection cannot hold a candle to this. And it’s in a town of less than 100,000 people.

• Yes, it’s true that George Street does have more bars than anyone could visit. Including the just opened, YELLOW BELLY BREW PUB. Canada’a best brewer, LIAM McKENNA is back in action here after his Dublin experience where his beer was good that Guinness paid bar owners not to stock it.

• BLUE www.blueonwater.com is a smart, modern boutique hotel, restaurant, bar right by the harbour.

• THE BAD AND THE UGLY: Hotels and office towers built in the past couple of decades are totally unsympathetic to St. John’s simple, colourful box, maritime architecture. When will North American cities learn that it’s style, not volume, that makes a place rich! Thankfully the new art gallery sets an example for future development.

"WHEN WE DRIVE TO MY BROTHER'S PLACE IN MANITOBA, WE JUST PUT THE FREEZER IN THE VAN AND WE'D BE ALL SET FOR FOOD."

4. FRANCE TAKES ON AUSTRALIAN YELLOW POWER
The most dynamic person in French wine today, Jean-Charles Boisset (French Rabbit, Clos Jordanne) has selected one of the icons of success in his country – the Yellow Jersey worn by the leader of the Tour de France bicycle race – as the logo for a new line of easy drinking wines. Apart from the connection with athletic achievement (and the popularity of Lance Armstrong of course) these wines come in recyclable (pun intended) plastic bottles which have tiny jerseys embossed all over them for a good grip. The biggest reason why this brand might be hugely successful is the association with the colour yellow which spawned success for Wolf Blass and Yellow Tail. I’ll put my money on it.

BUT, what about the wine itself? I really like how Boisset has combined easy-drinking with the traditional style and feeling of French wines. Yellow Jarsey is not a copy of Yellow Label, it’s drier, lighter, feels less ‘flavoured’ and is therefore less tiring on the palate.

I recommend Yellow Jersey Sauvignon and Pinot Noir for when you need liveliness, and the Chard and Merlot when easy-drinking, crowdpleasers are required.

5. FRENCH WINE AT THE BAR
My favourite bar discovery of the year
You gotta hop a plane to London for this. Why not! First off let me tell you we’re not talking London Pub here nor a swoosh designer place. The bar at St. John Restaurant is unique in that the space is a covered alleyway so it feels like you’re sitting on a narrow European street.

To your right is the restaurant’s bakery, opposite is the bar and behind you is the restaurant itself. The whole place is painted white so bottles of wine, loaves of bread and blackboards jump out inviting you to have it all. And I tell you I did.

7. DRIVING IN FRANCE – a first timer reports
The following are excerpts from a French trip by Steve Campbell, publisher of County magazine – in Prince Edward County. If you’re visiting the region you MUST pick up a copy of Steve’s great insights into the County, its people and culture. His office is located next door to the CIBC Bank on the main street in Bloomfield.

“My first big surprise was at Nice airport. Our rented car was not a Ford Fiesta – it was a Citreon fuel-injected, turbo-equipped, diesel five speed. Nobody, I mean nobody, would give me a car like that in Canada. Especially if they knew me.”

“I promptly exited the airport parking lot through the entrance. Oddly enough, all the signs were in French, so it was an honest mistake.”

“For a Canadian, French highways are like a dream come true. There are rules of some kind, but I don’t think they’re written down anywhere.”

“The slow lane is doing 120 kph, which I think is the speed limit. I’m in the middle lane, and I’m doing 150kph. In the third lane a Lamborghini blows past at 200kph, and I make a mental note: Stay out of the third lane.”

“What I really wanted to do was open the window and yell to other drivers: “Alhors! Voir moi! J’avais un Citreon!”, which loosely means: “Hey, look at me! I have a Lemon!”

“We were moving south into St.Raphael and we hit our first ‘roundabout’. We were prepared for it , but still . . . until you propel yourself into a big road circle with six spokes coming off it, you have no idea how you will react.”

“We took off randomly, and went somewhere.”

PART TWO: ONTARIO BOY visits FRANCE
Our story is about Steve traveling in France with his wife Cathy and their two kids. No, it’s mainly about Steve and his rental silver Citröen turbo-diesel rental car.

"You don’t learn a lot of French from Canadian cereal boxes, but you can pick up a ‘Free’ and ‘Gratis’. I learned to say in French “Hey kids, it’s free! There’s a prize inside for you!” I thought this would be an amazing pick-up line in a Paris bar."

"I found a quite good French beer called 1664 which is named after a revolution. I think. I carefully memorized the French inscription on the can (centieme soixante something), so I might order it by name. Suffice to say I accidentally ordered 1,664 beers delivered to my poolside table. The bartender had a good laugh and actually punched up a bill with an enormous total in French francs. A bigger man would have said ‘Yes, that’s what I want’, and defiantly drink 1,664 beers. But I had developed a love and respect from my Citröen, and didn’t want to do anything stupid.
Back home, I called the Picton Beer Store to see if they had ‘a beer that’s 1664’ and they asked ‘per case?’ and I said ‘No, in a can’, and they said ‘Hmmm, that’s pretty expensive for a can of beer.’ See, it doesn’t work in English either."

"The act of parking your car doesn’t have any hard-and-fast rules in this country. There are no police, no signs, no parking tickets but, if you block somebody in, you can kiss your car goodbye. It’s a kind of ‘social order’ that is policed by everybody, instead of by rules and signs and parking authorities."

"We entered an intersection which had five streets meeting together. We choose one, went a block and encountered another five-street intersection. (Apparently Parisians detest two streets meeting at right angles.)"

"Our Paris hotel was so small that we stood in front of it for a while checking our directions before we turned around and saw it."

NEXT: Trying to get out of France when no one knows what you’re saying.
P.S. Kronenbourg 1664 is available at the LCBO.

8. FRENCH WHITE WINE WITH LUNCH
Chablis in Dublin
I’m sitting in the very fancy King Sitric seafood restaurant in the village of Howth, which is just outside Dublin, having an oyster lunch with an old school friend. And scanning the wine list for something under $100. Fevre Chablis ‘Champs Royaux’ to the rescue. It tasted as green and fresh as the Irish Sea outside the window. As did the Galway Bay oysters. (Don’t you love when the scenery echoes the wine and food!). Two close-by tables in the restaurant were having the same wine so it felt like a Chablis club. Especially when we all had a second bottle. Owner Aidan was impressed with our luncheon consumption and took us over to his yacht club for some afternoon Guinness. Honest.

This is Aidan to the left.

A bank, a church and a handful of boutiques round out the strip. But I couldn’t help noticing that Roberta has made her bookstore the social centre of town with week-end events scheduled almost by the hour. Wakefield is also the resting place of a few great Canadians, Lester Pearson and the photographer Karsh. There’s a local hill walk that will take you past the cemetery.

Wakefield is a great example of how to be an 'alternative to the mall' by offering a different experience. Something very personal. And with the Gatineau river in the background, something very pretty. Highly recommended for sure.

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GETTING THERE
Download the winery map at www.pecountywines.ca

Travelling from Toronto, the most attractive way to enter The County is over the big bridge at Belleville. You can avoid the malls by taking exit #538 (HWY #1) off the 401. Go south till you hit HWY #2, go east (for about 5 minutes) and turn right at traffic lights to HWY #62 and the big bridge. This road will take you into the village of Bloomfield which is a pretty first stop in The County. Enroute on your right, you could stop off at Huff Estates Winery. Twenty hotel rooms were opened this summer and I hear they’re as spiffy as the winery.

BLOOMFIELD
A one-street town with well kept, handsome old homes and quaint shops. The Niagara-on-the-Lake of The County. (From Bloomfield you can visit most of the wineries by heading west to Wellington.)

Carruthers – Really good espresso. Also teas, ice cream and chocolates.
The Carriage House Restaurant and food shop – Run by a pair of young Toronto chefs. Very good food, local wines, simple decor, small patio. Breads/patés/sweets to go from the ‘Marshmallow Room’ food shop located at the front. www.bloomfieldcarriagehouse.com
Angeline's – Old World-style restaurant with motel-style rooms and spa. Rich food. Friendly. www.angelinesinn-spa.com
Slickers Ice Cream – Experts say it’s the best ice cream in The County. Novel flavours such as Apple Pie, Campfire, Jack Daniels with Chocolate. www.slickersicecream.com
Saylor House Tea Room – Quaint garden café/tea house behind the B&B of the same name. Local cider too.

WELLINGTON
Typical small Ontario town with a mile-long Main Street. Doesn't really feel like a resort town despite its lakeside location. Has an LCBO and nine hole golf course (one of the sponsors on the scorecard is the local undertaker. Just in case you’re having a bad round!). The following wineries are in this area: Carmela, Closson Chase, Chadsey's, Sandbanks, The Grange and Huff (see ‘ touring the wineries’).

Devonshire Inn and Restaurant – Great location on the lake. The Inn is a bit of a miss match but the restaurant can be good. The patio is the perfect place to unwind after a day touring wineries. Wonderful sunsets. www.devonshire-inn.com
The Sandbanks Restaurant – Big, family-style place with dockside patio. An afternoon beer spot.

ENROUTE to PICTON (at #33 and #1)
A few miles west of Picton is the Waring House Inn, Pub and Cooking School. The Waring House is the hub of the County. Owners Chris and Nora are involved in many local activities and are known by everyone. The Inn offers charming old rooms, modern motel-style units, a cooking school, a pub and even a tiny vineyard. While it looks grand, the atmosphere is very country-casual and super-friendly. Locals feel comfortable here and keep the pub busy all year. There's live entertainment weekends and Wednesdays. Stop by for a cold pint of Waupoos cider, Glenora beer or local wine. www.waringhouse.com

P.S. Half a mile south of the Waring House on County Rd. #1 you’ll find Ed and Sandy Taylor's organic farm. A wonderful sight in the pumpkin season. Maple syrup too. (You'll find lots of produce roadstands and farms throughout the county.)

PICTON
First impressions may not be great but once you start exploring I think you'll like this place. Not many Ontario towns have a harbour and a mountain backdrop! And the local Gazette is worth reading. The main drag is congested all summer so park on a shady side street and walk about. The Remax office (opposite the LCBO) gives out FREE County maps. For picnic supplies the A&P has good bread and roasted chicken.

On the MAIN STREET
Splash – Smart, cozy little bar and patio.
Ideal Bike – Opposite Splash. Best espresso in town! Honest. The owner happens to like coffee so he put in a good machine.
The Picton Library has free internet. A terrific community library.
Currah's – The local's favourite 'gourmet' restaurant. Tons of wines. Hideaway bar in the back.
Olivia & Co. – well-run used book store with the feeling of a county inn. Good place to get local info and history. They also own a beauitful gift/furnishings shop kitty corner from here called Gilbert & Lighthall.

If you want to visit Long Dog Winery (and you should) take #13 towards South Bay. Near Milford is the Jackson-Falls Schoolhouse B&B (www.pec.on.ca/jacksonsfallsbb/) which has four large guestrooms and lots of hang-out porch space. The original schoolroom is intact and available for guest dinners. Great deals on fall and winter weekend packages. Rooms, dinners and BYOW.

You are now pointed west and toward the summer attractions of Sandbanks or the more rugged (great for picnics) limestone ledges of Point Petre or Salmon Point. Ask locals to help you find the secret entrances. Yeah right. For the best beach walk go to Lakeshore Lodge (off #12 near Sandbanks Provincial Park) and you'll see miles and miles of inviting coastline. Just south of Cherry Valley (on #18) is a golf driving range and one of the prettiest mini-putt layouts. Great fun.

Art enthusiasts should visit Mad Dog Gallery (County Rd. #11 facing East Lake) – a big gallery space in a renovated barn – featuring the best of the County artists. (www.pec.on.ca/artists/maddog.htm ) Oeno Gallery (316 Old Orchard Road off #3, east of Carrying Place) is a big city gallery in a tranquil lakeside setting. Top-notch artists from all over. Lovely guest house too. www.oenogallery.com

Check out www.thecounty.ca and www.tastetrail.ca for further info and accommodation ideas.

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COUNTY WINERIES
Download the winery map at www.peccountywines.ca.

Carmela Estates Winery, Greer Road, Wellington www.carmelaestates.ca 613.399.3939
One of the largest operations, serving food indoors or on the patio. Big red barn-like building with lots of pretty flowers and garden ornaments. Large selection of wines – mainly Niagara blends – crafted by experienced winemaker Norm Hardie. There’s a good, bone-dry local Riesling ($18) and Pinot ($19).

Norm Hardie Winery, Greer Road, Wellington www.normanhardie.com 416 407 9752
Norm opened this summer but won't have any local wine till Christmas when he releases the first crop from his seven acres of Pinot Noir. Currently he is selling a very good dry Riesling ($19) produced from Niagara grapes. Norm is the rock star of County wines. A terrorist winemaker in search of an hour of glory. Well travelled, well connected, highly motivated and with a windswept appearance that suggests he just got off a surf board. He brings lots of passion and energy to the local scene. In a couple of years we'll know if there's magic in his hill of limestone. Expect a small, modern winery with a rustic setting. Not a cute flower or shrub in sight.

Rosehall Run Vineyards, Greer Rd, Wellington www.rosehallrun.com 613.399.1183
This just opened and it’s not much to look at, but owner Dan Sullivan scored first in local competition with both his 04 Chardonnay and 04 Pinot. These are sold out but look for the 05’s to appear at year end. If you enjoy light, tart red you must try the fab 05 Zweigelt ($19). It's early days yet but for now Dan's top dog in County wine.

By Chadsey's Cairns Winery, Wellington www.bychadseyscairns.com 613.399.2992
TO transplants Richard Johnson and Eva Zalnieriunas did the career change thing and selected a charming old farm setting – with great mature trees, and sheep a grazing – for their winery and vineyards. Shades of stepping into an English country village. It even has its own cemetery, and of course, a story about the character Chadsey. Very committed, hands-on folks and a lovely setting. So far I've enjoyed a crisp 04 Riesling ($19), a refreshing 04 Gamay ($15), and delicious 04 Rosé ($16). The newly released 05 Chenin ($23) will be a wonderful summer aperitif if you give it another year.

Sandbanks Winery, Wellington www.sandbankswinery.com 613.399.1839
Small, kitchen-door operation next door to Chadsey’s Cairns. Quebeçois Catherine Langlois planted her vineyard four years ago and is already producing good Vidal, Baco and Cabernet Franc. The wonderful abstracted image on the labels was painted by Catherine’s mother Rita, an artist in Quebec City. Entertainment at the tasting bar is sometimes provided by three year-old daughter Élise. Open weekends in summer, other times by chance or call.

The Grange, Hillier www.thegrangewines.com 1.866.792.7712
Million dollar renovation of a monster old barn. By a pond and surrounded by beautiful rolling vineyards and countryside. Huge tasting bar and inviting shaded patio overlooking the pond. I think this would be many people's idea of how a winery should look. It's picture postcard perfect in all seasons. Robert Granger detailed the restoration, and now daughter Caroline runs the show. Jeff Innes makes the wines. The 05 Pinot Gris ($16) is a yummy spicy/lemony sipper but a lot of the wines are hovering around okay at best. One of the few wineries that charges for tasting even if you purchase several bottles.

Closson Chase Winery, Hillier www.clossonchase.com 613.399.1418
Named after the road intersection of its location. Why not! Another barn conversion but with more of an artistic aesthetic. Interesting use of many materials – very playful. Confident and assured too. Big gardens with an interesting modern take on a farm fence. The cross-roads location and the colourful buildings give this place the feeling of a French village. Wish I could move the clock forward five years and taste Pinot from the huge vineyards behind the winery. An ex-Alliance-Atlantis boss is behind this interesting operation, where the focus is seriously high-end. Winemaker Deborah Paskus (Tawse Winery in Niagara) is hired to deliver. Currently you can buy a delicious 05 Niagara Non-Oaked Chardonnay ($23). Open May 24 to Thanksgiving.

Huff Estates, Hillier www.huffestates.com 613.393.5806
Larry Huff is a local but you'd never think so from the look of this ultra modern concrete and glass winery. A very smart place that has the added feature of a twenty room luxury inn – but sadly, no bar or restaurant. Huff brings a refreshing modern touch to The County and it's a great spot for a patio lunch under the bright yellow awning. I've found the staff to be friendly and informative, and young French winemaker Frederic Picard is producing excellent local and Niagara wines. His local 05 Pinot Gris ($17) is pure and super refreshing. The flagship red Cab/Merlot ($24.95) is from South Bay (near Long Dog Winery) and the 05 will be out next spring. Seductive, almost Ripasso in style. There is wonderful, rustic-style Niagara Gamay in tanks that will also appear next year. Frederic's wines have a distinctive, gentle, feminine touch. Something well suited to County and Niagara fruit.

Black Prince Winery, Picton www.blackprincewinery.com 613.476.4888
These folks are into medieval stuff, hence the name of the winery. But it's safe to enter, and don't be put off by the 60's bungalow exterior. It's better inside than out, and it's not just Black Prince. Manager Geoff Webb has created a sort of co-op place where other small producers can get started. Bella Vineyards Geisenheim ($16) is a yummy off-dry party sipper and Calcaire Vineyards offer several rustic Pinots that would do well with a roast chicken supper. Black Prince Non-Oaked Chardonnay ($14) is a very drinkable house wine. Located on the main drag going into Picton, and as far as I know this is the only winery in the country situated opposite a Canadian Tire Store.

COUNTY CHAMBOURCIN – FIT FOR A PRINCE
Two of my favourite local wine discoveries of the Fall were BLACK PRINCE 06 Chambourcin ($12.95) and Bella Vigne 06 Leon Millot/Foch ($13.95). I liked both wines for the same reasons – their vitality and honesty. Sure they are light (very light) and a million miles from Shiraz-land, but they have the refreshing realness of wines from the old world. We could have lost Baco if the snobs had their way, so maybe it’s time to start celebrating these other hybrids too.

P.S. You’ll find both of these wines at the Black Prince Winery (across the road from Canadian Tire on the way into Picton), Prince Edward County. They will ship. www.blackprincewinery.com

Waupoos Winery, Waupoos www.waupooswinery.com 613.476.8338
Ed Neuser’s handsome limestone winery and restaurant have a lovely lakeside setting. It appears on the cover of many Ontario wine brochures. Waupoos is apple growing area but Ed branched out into wine about five years ago. Winemaker Jason MacDonald produces a huge range of local and Niagara blends in all styles and shapes. His best are in the sweeter, Germanic style. Lovely restaurant setting but I have not eaten here.

County Cider Company, Waupoos www.countycider.com 613.476.1022
Situated up on the hill overlooking Waupoos bay. This is a must visit. Grant Howes starting making British-style dry cider in 1996 and a few years later he planted a vineyard. Now with the help of winemaker Jenifer Dean he has two drink businesses on the go. Two things to enjoy on the patio outside the renovated pig barn. Actually there's beer too – 'we're a cornucopia of drinks’, says Grant. I should mention the gorgeous lake view. The very refreshing draft cider is available at several bars in The County, (as well as Kingston and Toronto) and the bottle version is at Vintages. I haven’t tasted any of the wines yet.

Have fun. Looking forward to reading about your County stories.

Cheers.
Billy

ESPRESSO TRAIL GOES TO STRATFORD
Sputnik is a new espresso bar in Stratford with the edgy, sexy styling you'd expect in a major European city. Super cool or what. My favourite coffee machine – an Electra.

Sputnik is designed and operated by Susan Dunfield of Down the Street bar/restaurant – another cool, fun place to be. Short wine list of Billy's Best Bottles favourites at very reasonable prices.

Both locations are on the main street downtown.

www.downthestreet.ca

Also check out for lunch or dinner:
Woolfy's

Download my PDF's: LISBON GUIDE and Lisbon Map

NYC My favourite places to eat, drink and stay.